R32Abuser

So i have everything coming soon for this conv. I know you need to use one section of the 33 tail shaft and one section of the 32 shaft which i have both full shafts, i have the pedal box, slave, master cylinders as well as a few other things. Now one is a push type clutch (33) and one is a pull type clutch...from what iv read i can either swap the bellhousings to keep my clutch i have in there....OR.....i can retap the 33 bellhousing for the 32 slave to keep my cltuch. Is this all rite? Anything else anyone recommends?' i know about the navara speedo cable trick and i intend to do this when i change it all over but that isa bit away and i plan to get the box in first. Cheers, David

how the hell does that bike work with no hub? im just stupid i guess and cant work it out

90% of these calls being made are uneducated and unexperienced. I for one would listen to Sydneykid (gary)...he knows what he is talking about-i dont see what he would get from bullshitting you all.

pm sent

you have pm

forgot the date was at the bottom haha...

Here's me...im on the right with black hair....dont ask about the school uniforms-21st dress up for some reason...probably a yr or so old photo.

ROFLCAKES

if it were a little cheaper i would consider it as im putting a 30 in my car and its the most simple of comps to use....let me know by pm to discuss anything. Cheers David

Im in the process of doing the 30 conversion in a 32. Now whilst im working on the engine, i figure i may aswell upgrade the box first as this will not affect much. Im obviously going to a 25 Box as everyone generally has here for a 32 conversion. My question is, when im going the 25 box obviously if i just change this, my speedo will be out and then i will have to do the navara speedo cable job. If i were to just change the diff for a 25 GTST diff would this not correct my speedo problem? I.e. if i change the box and diff to both 25 options, then my speedo will be spot on? This will also change the characteristics of the 20 (whilst its in there) and the 30 making it a bit more sluggish due to the taller final ratio...so would this be advisable for the 30? should i just leave the 20 diff in there? Im guessing aswell the taller final ratio will make traction easier aswell... Iv read the guide and the WHOLE thread im just looking for opinions etc. Also any ECU's that people can recommend would be great...PFC isnt that much of an option due to the rarity in 32's. Microtech, etc etc (How much, ease of use etc etc) Anyone thoughts/opinions/experiences would be greatly appreciated (Cubes, Darren etc! )

+1

yup a little too ricey for my liking...but still better than the stock lighting on most skylines. i would have gone with a different color personally, along with teh boost guage color aswell. Not bad tho!

IMO you would be wasting your money going to a Blitz LM. The stock GTR ones are fine and flow/cool enough as is unless they are gunked up from oil etc etc. In that case if your so worried, id get your GTR one completely cleaned and flow tested and she will be as good as new.

black attracts heat more so than what the color of aluminium will...something you dont want in a heat soak. I.e. say your in the sun, it will get hotter than if it were just left unpainted-something which will hamper performance. However, it also sheds heat quicker than any other color i.e. say your in the shade or the cooler is well covered then it will lose heat quicker than if it were left unpainted. Really as stated earlier it makes sweet fa difference to performance. Main factor it changes is the attention you get-good and bad. Its up to you but iv left mine unpainted and it saves you having to paint it every so often after the paint eventually flakes off.

cheers, yeh i figured i would need the GTR injectors....anybody else know regarding the sensor side of things? what about AFM/Throttle bodies can i use a single one (read 32 AFM) or whats the go? am i better off biting the bullet and just getting a R32 RB25DE?

I was after a RB25DE but now it looks as its easier to find a RB26 head for my 30 than an R32 Non VCT RB25DE. Whats the go with this and sensors/injectors etc etc. I have read the ENTIRE thread and am a little unsure. To my knowledge i will need (providing i use a aftermarket comp etc e.g. PFC) all new sensors...or wat can i utilise from my rb20? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

how could a Z-tune beat a V8 supercar by 16seconds...i see it as being physically impossible if you look at the statistics. Drive train- RWD vs AWD (admitedly AWD is superior in some situations, however, this is HUGELY tyre dependent regarding the ztune) Engine- 620bhp 5.0L V8, no lag striaght out brute horsepower vs 2.8L L6 turbocharged ~ 500-600bhp but that sed either way its down on horspower and down on throtle repsonse. Nothing beats having cubes behind you. Suspension-not sure on teh V8's but i believe they are btoh a double wishbone setup under project blueprint, bit different to the GTR's double wishbone with a trailing arm but still both would be on a close level playing field. The only thing here i can see as an advantage for the z tune is the wheel base. Either way you look at it, even if it was to beat a v8 supercar, it wouldnt be by 16 seconds round any track i know. Unless the supercar was being driven by some half rate amatuer.

well here are my costs so far that iv calc'd RB30E ~ 150 (sell hed for 50) ~ 100 RB25DE head ~ 650-1000 depending on whether you have to get an RB25DE complete or not. Now from here you can just bolt these two together, and you will havea RB30DET...How reliable-i dont know depends on the engine before hand. But Sky30 did this and made ~ 300RWKW and it held together fine. So if you aiming for 200RWKW i wouldnt bother wiht freshening up the bottom end as it should hold together at these power levels. For turbo choice you could just use a Rb25DET Neo turbo which should make around the 200RWKW mark with absolutely no lag. Gearbox-the 20det one would hold for a while, but as cubes did, the additional torque stripped his 3rd gear. So factor about 1000 for a 25 gearbox. At the end of the day, for mayb 2500 you will have an engine setup that will do the work day in day out. It will be an unbeliveably torquey motor and a good daily. Far better than any 25 or 20 will give you. if you went down the 25 path, you still have an engine in there which wasnt in the car to begin with, you still have to get a 25 box, and you still have the same glitches any engine change will bring. Stay with the 20 and you will have an engine which lacks response, and all round has less potential. Its up to you but i highly recommend the 30.

why not go RB30DET? Sure u have to chase a few parts up, but the 30DET is far superior to both motors for day to day driving on the road. Why not check out the Rb30 thread...its worth a look.

after getting my RB30E and my RB25DE, and taking the head off the RB30E....What is recommended to be done if im wanting to replace i.e. measuring/checking etc etc a)main bearings b)welsch plugs c)big end bearings d)piston rings anything else anyone recommend to replace bar rods and pistons... Cheers David

well last time i check the weight of an RB30 is around the 200-250 mark (sorry bout not being exact but unless i put it on a scale its not going to get an exact weight) so with everything on it, id say 250 ish + or - about 30kg...cant help you with the rest as i have never done any of it.

you have pm...

Head still for sale or not>? PM me with details cheers

XR6T in auto is the best choice. Even Wheels stated the auto was the choice over the manual...greater reliability and less hassles. holden v8's are better in most facets...however i hate the interior on all holdens. And extremely underbreaked.

simple fix....dont buy from autobarn. More expensive, and less knowledge at that place.