R32Abuser

Location?

did you get my PM?

What size rear housing is the 3076 running? 0.82 Rear 98 or E85? BP98 Cutout at 7000RPM. That said the thing was starting to nose over up top anyway. VCT would be awesome - well worth the small amount of effort. 9.5:1 is definately getting up there in terms of Static CR. Initially, I was having big issues with the motor pinging not being able to take more than about 8 degrees of advance. I thought it was CR initially and that the builder had f**ked up. Long story short, went to another tuner and made more power and no pinging (using knock ears).

Twin horns condition? Working? Price? PM me and we can discuss. I am in SA also.

Currently have an RB25/30DET with ~9:1 CR CP Pistons, little to no head work done (R32 RB25DE head), with Tomei 256°/8.5mm cams. GT3076R strapped to the side of it (I bought Cubes' turbo off him!). Car made 281RWKW @ 18 PSI on a pretty conservative dyno (Jaustech) - dyno plot is in the RB30 Dyno thread/sticky img-301131610-0001 (2).pdf Realistically, if I had more AFM (Q45 @ 5.1V) and bigger injectors (was at about 90%) it would have hit the 300 easy with good boost control. But tbh, I didn't care about the number as all I was after was response. Makes ~220-230 RWKW @ 4000RPM which is far more than my diff and tyres can handle. Only regret I have is not using a Neo head for the build. Would have meant I could achieve around 9:1 CR with a stock bottom end and the head is better anyway. Also would have meant I could run VCT

Also keep in mind if you go adjustable whiteline bushes, you should get a wheel alignment done post installation. You CAN eyeball it and install both with "maximum" caster, but this would be assuming everything else is square and true. If its not, you will be running different caster L to R.

SK's kit used Whiteline springs. FWIW...These were about 1" lower than standard and for my car left the eyebrow height sitting at about 330mm F, 340mm R at the standard cir clip height. I soon raised the cir clips to the highest (current) setting which gave me 345mm F (drivers), 350 F(passenger) and 350 R.

Any of you guys used Motul 8100 X-Max 10W-40? I've been looking long and hard for ACEA rating/specifications on this oil however they only seem to supply API ratings. On the American Motul site i believe they list the 0W-40 (or similar) as having ACEA A3/B4 but cannot find any more information on the 10W-40 variant.

Daily Driver 1990 AE92 Toyota Corolla 4A-F Engine,1.6L Four-Cylinder, Carburettor fed. 5 Speed Manual Factory "Grey" Colour Standard "steelies" Body panels are relatively in good nick. Paint has seen better days - mainly faded on the roof, one of the front guards, and the hatch. Drives well - I have owned it for 2.5 years and had no problems with it whatsoever. Just kept it topped up with oil and water and hasn't missed a beat. Only noticable issue was the battery light would flicker on from time to time - I check the charge voltage and the alternator - these tested fine. This car is the perfect cheap runabout for someone with a play car that needs a car just to get to and from work. I usually get around 7-8L/100km economy which is pretty good considering its run off a carby. I believe the rego is still valid until October but will have to check. I am getting rid of it because I have a new daily (2003 VY SV8) which I got at a price I couldn't refuse. Looking for $1000 ONO. Can get photos for you if needed. Contact me via PM or send me a text on 0401 THREE ONE SEVEN ZERO ZERO NINE. Cheers, David

Im an avid believer in the RB30 and by all means go for it! However, if you dont have the time (or the patience) to do the full job (getting it legally rego'd), then just go the RB25 Neo. Speaking from personal experience, I have a RB30DET in my 32 and I do nothing but worry bout getting pulled up by the boys in blue. So much so I have toyed with the thought of selling the car/engine as a package or separate. That said, in SA we dont have yearly RWC to meet so its alot easier to get by with an illegally modified car.

I was under the impression you could only get 1.5 or 2's from Nismo?

His point wasnt that there is an exact length for every car and that they would be able to rattle it off to you. Each car (depending on how the box is sitting in the car) will need some slight adjustment. Sure there might be a ballpark length, but do you really want to get it farbicated to this length to find its too short/long? As GTSBoy said, take the whole lot to a tailshaft/driveshaft place (Hardy Spicer is an example) and get them to do the work for you based of how the assembly is sitting in your car.

Yeh but on 98? Jungle juice fair enough... With 9:1, I had enough troubles with the thing pinging when ramping onto max torque! 9.5 would be the limit for me on 98 IMO

EDIT: I have a 3L, 9:1 Static CR, GT3076R with 0.82 rear and I make 14-15 PSI (1 Bar) by just under 3000 in 3rd/4th on PULP (BP 98). 19 PSI is in at about 3300RPM odd. I guess its achievable but 19 psi in before or at 3000RPM. I wouldnt mind seeing a dyno plot to back it. This is ofcourse unless its a stroker 3.2 or 3.4 lol

Grind the Nolathane (or whatever material it is) as necessary until the D clamp is securely fastened as per OEM (small gap IIRC). This will not affect the function of the sway bar. These chassis mounts are simply used to constrain the Anti Roll Bar vertically and longitudinally.

^ + 1

I ended up going with ARP rod and head bolts. My intention was "whilst its all apart you may aswell". Shame it ends up costing a packet though! IMO RB25/30 + GT3076R is the best combo for a responsive ball tearer combo. The midrange is obnocious!!!

^^^^ Who built it out of curiosity?

I'd be getting them crack tested before using them...otherwise I wouldnt risk it! Also, I thought we were talking RB30 for some reason in my earlier post (too early in the morning!). So RIPS probably wouldn't be my first option for RB25. On the otherhand, you could go RB30...

SOrry to hear... If I were you I would do one of two things: 1. Build another forged motor - DO IT ONCE DO IT PROPERLY! I would consider buying a bottom end from RIPS 2. Get another OEM RB30E and leave the bottom end. Depending on your turbo and power target it may be more than adequate if you tune safely.

+1 I went through similar issues on my motor about a year ago. Built RB25/30 + GT3076R + Cams. Should have been making 260+ RWKW on OEM cams and was only making 220RWKW whilst wanting to ping. Threw the cams at it and re-timed + adjusted the base cam gear timing etc. Ended up making ~250 RWKW with no explanation of why it wouldnt make anything more. Was making the torque/power/response under 5000 RPM, just wouldn't make power! With literally nothing changed, I took it to a well respected tuner - made some adjustments to the tune. Walked out of there with 281 RWKW on a "lower" reading Mainline dyno. From my (and others) experience, since these motors do not maintain an OEM timing setup (taller block + DOHC), they are very sensitive to the timing being correct. My advise is to re-check timing. AFM and computer is not the issue. Plenty of others have had no problems with PFC + Nissan AFM's. Won't matter whether you have a MAP/MAF or Link/PFC, if the thing isn't timed properly it will never make decent power/torque.

All seems OK but could use with some touch ups here and there (depending on the motor and its sensitivity to detonation)... Especially rolling onto peak torque as this is where the motor will have the greatest tendencey to ping/knock. 12:1 is OK but depending on the application, I'd be tempted to go a little richer. As for idle, the dyno graph gives no information so cannot comment. EDIT: GTSBoy beat me to it...

Sounds about right... Lack of tune + limiter bashing / mistreatment - your going to have a bad day!!!

Sure... its definately advisable to have the crank collar fitted. However, depending on the intended use of the car, I do not think it is essential. There are plenty of cars out there getting around with the smaller oil pump drive area with no problems come 150 XXX kms... I for one would not be pulling the motor down just to install the collar...

As stated, if the motor is out of the car, you'd be mad not to give the engine the once over. That said, cluster guage oil pressure is horribly inaccurate and at times does not even work at all for me. If the motor was/is running I'd be checking the oil pressure with a 3rd party oil pressure guage to get a tangible result/baseline.