R32Abuser

^^^^ +1

+ 11ty for Jaustech Had nothing but positive dealings with them. Anthony is a champ and a damn good troubleshooter for those problems you just can't seem to nail yourself!

Ill take the Motul 300V oil for $100 Have sent you a PM. Am contactable on 0401 317 009. Can pick up as Im in SA aswell.

Ill take the oil at $100. Pm Sent

Yeh? I searched there but maybe Im stupid!? Care to link lol?

Very Tidy. I want your rear muffler for my car - Been looking for ages for a Kakimoto R system that isn't obnoxiously expensive! If I know anyone interested, Ill be sure to relay the ad... GL with sale.

Still available by any chance lol?

Search online... Takes about 5 seconds via Google. Then you just need to narrow it down to the ADR in question.

Also from memory: anything emissions related I was under the impression that they cannot make an evaluation/test until the car is upto its operating temperature. I also remember reading that this is the case for a dB exhaust noise level test. Majority (if not all!!!) cars would fail an emissions test (regardless of what the emission looks like) when operating on cold start.

I would have gone one of these if it wasnt for the 6 week turn around time from the day I ordered. My radiator was cactus and I couldn't afford the car to be off the road for such a long period of time. +1 I have a Twin core, 52mm Koyo radiator in my RB30DET making ~300 RWKW. Cooling system took a beating whilst on the dyno. After 1.5-2 hrs of solid hammering, the thing only once brushed 95°C. Quality is awesome and only a slight modification was required to the existing OEM mounts/brackets.

Modified R32 Mounts here...as per the recommendation in this thread and in the RB30DOHC guide We also spaced down my subframe but ~8-10mm (plate) and my sway bar by about 3-5mm (washers) LOADS of room in a 32 except for at the cam cover & or FMIC cross pipe where it goes over the clutch fan.

Yup. Story of my life...Oh well least its fixed. Yeh I have seen those, specially for Subaru bretherans IIRC. Now I just have to get my arse around to doing my diff/rear end overhaul. Nothing better than a clunky as hell diff round shitty Adelaide streets

Ok just for those playing at home...I have found the knock and solved the issue. A while ago, I changed the standard drop links in my Anti Roll Bar setup to Whiteline's "heavy duty" items. Amongst my worry to get all of the "pre-load" out of the roll bar setup, I did not completely tighten one side of a drop link. This then allowed the sway bar to move laterally in its mounts when the bar was actuated (over small/large bumps or deviations). A quick go with the spanner and "hey presto", the noise is completely gone.

Im not sure what you're trying to ask in the above post... As a very general statement: The smaller turbo you run, the higher the EGT's will be and thus increase the sensitivity of the setup to knocking (apples with apples of course!). Run a higher Static/dynamic CR and you will only make the problem worse.

Hmmm from an initial glance, there isnt that many servos (is there any???) that run E85 around your area anyway! Could always buy it by the barrel since the car isn't going to be a "daily" driver. Worst case scenario, tune for 98 and see what you can get away with. If you're having issues with the thing knocking and you're not happy with the power/torque, chuck the juice at it! If it were me, depending on your turbo choice, I'd be keeping it to 9:1 on 98...

Depends on so many different factors. It's easy to say "He did this with this turbo, pistons etc." and it was OK...doesn't mean YOUR build will be EXACTLY the same and also be fine. E.g. My RB25/30DET, Static 9:1 CR (there abouts), 256/8.5mm Tomei Cams, 18PSI @3500-4000RPM. Pretty much copied Cubes' RB30 build. However, the thing wanted to ping its head off on BP98. More so than normal and definately not like Cubes' RB30. Chased our tails (tuner and I) for a little while...Eventually, chucked some more fuel into it, pulled some timing and it was all good. Sacrificed a small amount of power for some reliability. However, the thing is definately more sensitive to knocking than the run of the mill RB. If it were me, I'd be going E85 just for the sake of it. Is it going to be a build for a road or track car?

Washer bottle motors?

Occasionally. Once a week if that. Black R32 GTST, GTR Front bar & wing, Volk GTP's (Old school). Since production started ramping up, we've had to park further and further away in the car park. Theres a few nice imports in your car park and ours - Few R33's, a couple of JZX100's, an Aristo, Legnum's, Supra's silvia here or there

Spotted Dohmar at what I assume is his place of work (hence I am not going to state a location)... I work "Across the carpark fence" from you. Nice and clean example of a 32 GTR

+1 My set-up already feels like it has the torque curve of a V8.

Pete from PLMS tuned Rolls (R32 RB25DET Neo Hi-Flow etc.) and my car (RB30DET, GT3076R etc) and did a fantastic job. Has plenty of experience with RB's from what I've heard. VERY THOROUGH and patient. Pete wants the job done right and enjoys seeing the results as much as the owner. Other tuners to note are Simon at Morpowa and I've also heard good things about Willall Racing.

0.63 is too small IMO. See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/405332-3076r-on-2630/page__view__findpost__p__6463026 Simons RB26/30 with Std cams, E85, GT3076R 0.63 A/R etc. chokes up top. All over by about 5750RPM. Bare in mind that graph is on a hub-pack dyno not a roller... My GT3076R 0.82 A/R is still making power upto 6100 RPM but we ran out of fuel pump/injectors/AFM to do anything more. Makes ~230RWKW @ 4000RPM and peaks 281RWKW @ 6100 RPM. It's probably capable of 300RWKW with a bit of fuel/AFM and a psi or two...but who cares!

I agree in terms of weight. Although you can't beat power to weight, there is still a massive limit to what you can practically put to the ground without comprimising other areas of the car (excessive squat etc etc.) I also agree at the cost aspect. However, apples for apples, there is a significant difference between driving an RB30 vs RB25. I've found the RB30 to be a more "streetable" motor. If you want to take off from the lights quickly, you dont need to stall the car up and look like a hoon or rev the thing to 5000RPM. Just torque away, barely getting on boost. Zebra, by no means would I be chucking a GT-RS at an RB30. I'd be chucking a GT3076R on it or equivelent. Smaller than that and the thing chokes up. Larger and you start to lose the response you were after in the first place.

Disco, I assume its for the street since you mentioned being emissions compliant? If so, I'd go RB30DET + E85 Flex Fuel... IMO The redline limit on the motor is close to being irrelevant for this application. As previsouly mentioned, having the extra capcity increases the usable rev-range of the motor. You can turn RB30's to higher RPM limits, you just need to make the proper modifications (Balancer, pump etc.). In any case, if your spending that much time on the street near your limiter, you deserve to have your license taken away from you. My biggest issue with my setup is not being able to put the power I have down to the ground. R32 GTST RB30DET with ~280RWKW is quite a handfull at times. That said, I need to get a decent set of street semi's and a 1.5 Way C-LSD.

Location?