R32Abuser

PM was sent a few days ago... No response. PM or SMS on 0401 317 009

Stop worrying and let the tuner finish his work. I had a ~40 RWKW difference between a finished "Tune", and then a check/small touch up tune. Bare in mind, this was on an RB30DET but still goes to show what some extra time/work can do. The problem with my original tune was: a) not enough timing overall b) not enough fuel coming on full boost to stop detonation when running extra timing c) some rough patches in the tune which made the car a little less drive-able. Funnily enough it made more power everywhere once the above was fixed up.

^^^ +1 LOL

Here in SA it can be, and has been done. Since an RB25DE was offered in the R32 GTST, correct me if I'm wrong, but any engine with the same engine code as an RB25 can then be installed into that car legally if the following is carried out: Emissions Test (forgotten the test number). Maintain the stock RB25DET intake side (plenum, injectors etc.) and exhaust side (turbo etc.) and you are fine. Obviously there are extenuating circumstances to allow for where worn components will cause a motor to fail an emissions test Upgrading of brakes to suit increased power. Upgrade to R33 brakes and you are fine. Bare in mind, this is working on SA's rules and regulations.

Don't bother with RB20. Get RB25DET...Wire RB20 gear to the new motor...stick the stocker RB25 turbo on it and drive the thing!

NIStune...

Parts R32 RB25DE head RB30 Series 2 bottom end RB26/30 CP Pistons 9:1 Static CR (CP pins, rings etc.) Spool RB30 Rods to suit. ARP fasteners ACL Race series bearings to suit above rods Standard Crank. Blueprinted/Balanced/Crack tested etc RB25DET Series II Oil Pump with extended drive "Snout" (Spool Imports) GT3076R 0.82 A/R Garret Turbocharger (Standard oil/water lines) Stiffer valve springs (unsure of brand) High Energy Style Sump + Head drain (big f**k off fitting on the back of the head) Standard valve train (RB20DET) (Cams/gears/lifters etc) Cometic Head gasket (Spool Imports) GTR Waterpump 550cc Bosch EV14 Injectors Nismo Fuel Reg (Adj.) Nismo Engine Mounts/G-Box Mounts Bosch 040 Fuel Pump Nistune ECU Remap Labour Bore/Hone Block to suit CP Pistons Deck Block Grind/Blueprint Crankshaft Balance Pistons Micropolish Crankshaft Balance Motor Reconditioned Head Modify/Weld/Machine Head 281 RWKW @ 18 PSI (High Boost) 251 RWKW @ 14 PSI (Low Boost) img-301131610-0001.pdf

OEM R32 gtst gearing...4.343 IIRC?

FYI Found an issue with my knock sensor fault occuring. Hence, this has been pulling timing when the fault occurs. Apparently the fault stays on the computer until you turn the car off for about 10 seconds. But either way, it does explain the "inconsistent feeling" of power I described.

^^^^^ +1 Still have this issue on my car but for a GT3076R. Hit a wall at 250-260RWKW on my RB 25/30. Was told it was the cams. Cams made small difference, but DEFINATELY were not the problem. It is beyond reasonable doubt caused by something set wrong as far as timing goes. Hence, I'm sending it to another workshop to be re-timed and rechecked meticulously.

All good...Im simply using the values you gave me. For comparison, the first 5-10 rates that are in this thread that Sydney Kid calculated I also calculated using my spreadsheet. All were pretty much on spot +/- 5% IIRC. Furthermore, I calc'd my own spring rates and they were pretty much spot on with what I was given from SK. So I dont believe there's a problem with the spreadsheet... Ill take another look when I get home and re-calc everything. But when I did calculate them, I checked and re-checked the values as I was a tad surprised going off the pictures.

Sorry it has taken this long! Results are: 2.85 kg/mm or ~ 160 lb/in Bare in mind i have used an average of your upper and lower OD's. Although this isnt 100% accurate, it will be in the vacinity of the correct value. From what I've read, these seem like stock rates. How does it ride and handle?

Bah. Completely forgot last night and didn't have enough time anyway Setting an alarm now for when i get home. Cheers, David

+1

Ill calculate your spring rates when I get home. At work and my spreadsheet etc. is not on this computer.

Also, problem is finding a 1.5 Nismo diff. They don't pop up very often. I have also been told the half shafts (AKA stub shafts) are different from OEM and you need the correct halfshafts supplied with teh diff from Nismo. These also rarely pop up correct for my car i.e. 5X1 bolt pattern etc.

Sorry forgot to add that... Car is pretty much 95% street, 5% track. 2-way is pretty much out of the question. There is just no need for it. GTSBoy: Yeh it seems the cheapest way to go about it. Best of both worlds IMO (cheap & still locks well for the way I use my car). But like you said, its a big ordeal to get it all setup. Unfortunately you had the added expense of the extra diff

Okay, So my current diff is on its way out - the usual whines, clunks and noises that come from a diff which has done 170,000 kms. So in saying that, I'm on the lookout for a replacement... 1st choice (cheapest) would be to overhaul & shim up the diff I have in the car - advantages: fixes the clunks noises etc., locks better that currently, cheap disadvantages: its a V-LSD. They have average performance at best. Shimming accelerates wear on the crown wheel from what I had read and overall is just a bandaid for a bullet wound. 2nd choice would be to purchase a new or used Nismo/OS Giken/Cusco etc. - advantages: Nismo item is comfortable (almost) as OEM, locks consistently, considerably newer item overall disadvantages: costly, if 2nd hand unknown condition etc. 3rd choice would be to install a diff from another car i.e. S15 torsen diff - advantages: locks consistently (except for in zero traction environment), cheap disadvantages: zero traction = zero lock (driveways etc.), unknown condition What is your thoughts? Which path should I go down considering that cost, effectiveness, performance and condition of the item all need to be considered... Cheers, David

INBOX FULL! Hey mate, keen on radiator cap. Condition? Picture? Price + postage to SA 5064? PM me details etc. Cheers, David

INBOX FULL Hey mate, after the amber indicators... Pictures of condition aswell as a focused picture on specifically the mounting if you can? Will you separate? If so, Id be willing to pay more than half the current cost you have up. Pending condition. If not, would you do $100 + postage? Regards, David

Size and offset please... Also will you post at buyers expense?

NSW location from what I can tell?

Sizing and offset if you could?! 18X???? +???

IIRC I have the 3 Pin plug version of the Q45 AFM on my RB25/30 with a GT3076R. Making 256 RWKW (some power issues up higher in the rev range) with no issues down low regarding "resolution". I have been told by my tuner that I have plenty of AFM left to work with and we are FAR from maxing out this AFM. Once I get my car back (today) I'll post my P/N as a reference.

Likewise. No modifications required to the loom etc. besides obvious (AFM etc.) as I was upgrading several items.