R32Abuser

It can be done. Requires some modifications of the loom. Nothing too drastic. Simon S14 would be a good person to call on for advice/service. Roll's runs an RB25DET NEO on his RB20DET ECU running NIStune. Only difference is your bottom end which has no bearing on what ECU you need as I originally stated.

I don't understand why anyone wouldn't fit one. While the motor is apart, for the sake of what - $150 for the collar (conservative!), $100-200 for fitting the item. If you build a forged motor with all the goodies (few thousand $$$) and your oil pump drive fails, wave goodbye to a good portion (if not all!) of that money...

As its been stated before in the 30 thread, get the ECU for the head you are using (RB25DE R32 / RB25DET 33 OR RB25DE 33/RB25DET NEO/RB26DETT) and use all the sensors that are originally appropriate for that head. Running a 20 computer on my RB30...No issues whatsoever. The only time you WILL have issues is if you try to mix and match sensors from one head/ecu with another. Obviously this doesnt apply to EVERY sensor...but overall the above statement should be followed.

Came down to two different options: 1. Triple pass core from racepace $550 - Asian made (not sure of country) 45mm. Only downside really was the minimum 3 week wait, and the fact that the fit/finish is unknown. 2. Koyo 53mm twin core for approxmiately the same price - Known to fit as per OEM, delivered in 1 day, only issue is its not a triple pass. I understand from a cooling standpoint, the tripple pass is the way to go - No doubts there. But the fact that the car will be used 99.99% of its time on the road, I don't want my car consistantly being off the road (just did an RB30DET conversion), and I want it to fit like OEM made the decision a little easier. I have no doubts that even if I do take the car out the track, that this radiator will be adequate. Maybe not on a 40 degree day - but who wants to do a track day in that sort of heat

Agreed I do not want a ebay POS However, any recommendations on specific brands? PWR make an awesome 3 pass I hear, however the price is a little out of what I want to spend and overkill to boot.

Yeh I was looking at getting a Koyo, but they are decently expensive compared to some of the other options on the market. However, a wise man once said, you get what you pay for - and here is no different IMO. Heard a few bad stories about the 52mm thick after market items and them being no better than the OEM setup.

Not having massive cooling issues atm in normal weather upto about 27 odd degrees. After that the "Hot Fan" at the front of the car switches on. All of this being said, I dont want to replace the std radiator with something that will only EQUAL the cooling capacity of the stock setup. Considering the car is making probably twice the amount of power than the original motor made in that car; the cooling is probably a little underdone if anything.

Hi all, Long story short I have a coolant leak from my OEM cooling setup. Turned out to be one of the end tanks leaking - where from I dont know at this time - could be end tank cracked (worst case) or could be just that the seal is gone. Will know more later. My question is: What is an advisable replacement item for my OEM setup which will achieve the following Provide a higher level of cooling than the OEM setup Look as OEM as possible (I dont mind going to a full Aluminium setup- just keeping it looking OEM is preferable) Price can't be outrageous Be able to cope with 35 deg / 40 deg days in SA in traffic ( I understand that this has more to do with the fan setup than anything else) Fit must suit OEM cooling setup i.e. OEM clutch fan etc. Cheers, David

I run a standalone controller for boost controller (Blitz DSBC) which (to my knowledge) doesn't allow such freedom May have to play with the ramp rate overall. Suffer with a little bit more spool time to get a little bit more power to the ground. Once my Bridgies have run their race Ill definately be moving onto a semi at the rear or all round. Federal RS-R's or Kuhmo KU-36's most likely. I would go to a 255/40/17 but the price difference is rediculous and its makes the wheel setup "technically" illegal as the wheel protrudes from the arch.

Subframe bushes in the rear I am due to replace once my HICAS lock bar comes in (couple of weeks). Then Ill be dropping the diff and pissing off HICAS, replacing all diff bushes and replacing the subframe bushes. Hopefully this will fix a few noises and make the rear end a little less "squirmy" when pushing it. In saying that, the diff has ALOT of backlash. To the extent that the clutch shuddering ( I was told for the first 1000km of my JB Full Monty Clutch's life that it would do this) causes some seriously bad knocks in the rear end. Also I can turn the tail shaft like 10 degrees and get little to no movement of the half/stub shafts out of the diff (time for a new diff or at the very least an overhaul of the V-LSD!!!) All engine/transmission mounts were changed to Nismo items when the motor was removed FYI.

Tyres are within a year old so I wouldn't have thought that the compound had "gone hard" from sitting around doing nothing with no heat cycles. Yeh, atm I am using the right foot to modulate the power feeding to those tyres but was just wondering if a lot of these observations are consistent with what others experience. Alignment is as follows from when the rear tyres were installed: FR Caster = 6 deg Toe = 3mm total toe out (1.5mm each side) Camber = -1deg RE Toe = 0 mm total Camber = -0.5 deg My old 100% worn tyres used to axle tramp, until I got my current set of tyres installed and an alignment done. Very little needed to be corrected in the new alignment though My diff is a V-LSD. A very loose/sloppy one at that. However it doesnt seem too bad. This definately would be a part of the problem, but I wasn't really wanting to go down the clutch pack route unless I 100% had to. Possibly shimming will help a little bit in a straight line?

Ok... so having done a few k's with the new motor I have a few issues/observations which I want to know whether they are consistent with what others have noted. For details of my build please see: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376666-power-ceiling-gt3076r/page__hl__ceiling AND http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/371076-rb2530det/ FYI Motor is still on castor/mineral oil as I am doing 500-1000km before changing to synthetic. My first issue/observation is the immediate lack of traction achievable in 1st/2nd/3rd gears Now although this change is blatantly obvious due to the dramatic increase in torque from my previous motor (RB20DET), I'm wondering what you guys are experiencing... This is all in the dry BTW: 1st gear is pretty much useless @ more than about 1/2 throttle...otherwise she spins up 2nd gear EASILY torches the tyres when full boost comes in (~3200RPM) and if you don't modulate the throttle to minimize wheel spin, it all just ends up in alot of smoke/noise through to cut-out (7000RPM) 3rd gear will just be able to hold the tyres in line with them spinning up "ever so slightly" until about 5k rpm where power/torque has nosed over (see above post links) Suspension setup is the Sydney Kid GB. 235/45/17 Bridgestone RE001 rears with probably 60-70% left. My idea to assist traction would be to go to a 255/40/17 and potentially go to a semi-slick such as a KU36. However, I just don't see these changes being able to make such a significant difference considering the torque. What setups are most members running and what are your observations? Do you guys find that having the additional torque from RB30 and a decent sized turbo that it is just not "practically" useful on the street? Of course this is assuming we are not spinning the tyres every time we want to give it a squirt below 60-70km/h in 2nd or 3rd..... Secondly, when ever the motor comes on boost at throttle positions between 75-100%, it almost feels as though something is "restricting" the car. What's moreover is the power that the motor delivers feels very inconsistent. I.e. non-significant changes in ambient temperature- one time the thing will feel like a ball tearer, the next time it will feel "flatter". By no means is it a lesser feeling than say an RB20/RB25 DET setup, but it just doesn't feel as consistent in putting out power as the OEM tune did. Have any of you forklift motor owners experienced said "feeling"? Could this potentially be related to a temperature compensation in the Nistune ECU reducing the timing the motor sees as the engine gets hotter from the previous "squirt"? Thirdly, as soon as you change gears, the motor feels like the rev's drop SIGNIFICANTLY more than what I would normally expect during the time the clutch is depressed- it's as if the engine is wanting to stall! Now I believe this to be partly caused by some reversion coming from the turbo (NOTE: "chopping" sound after gear change occurs) playing funny buggers with the AFM readings. Intake side consists of stock BOV setup, 3" metal intake pipe (pissed off the OEM rubber item). Any of you care to share your thoughts on this issue? All in all, I'm happy with the setup but have these few drivability issues to sort through to make this a more comfortable streeter. Any thoughts/comments etc. are much appreciated

Nah sunday arvo... Was in a black R32 2dr...

Blue 4dr R32 driving between Crafers and Picadilly or Uraidla....cant remember what town I was near . Sounded tough! Would have waved back, but was too busy working the GPS to find fuel - New motor sucks the juice!

Yeh some people said this to me but then others said Q45 AFM maxes out at higher power levels I didn't know which way to go, but a Q45 came up at a price I couldn't say no to. Guess that's the main thing that it comes down to. Price.

Q45 AFM is bigger in physical size...hence it will not bolt straight up to your standard airbox (assuming you are still running it) without modification. If you're running a pod, you will require a different AFM adaptor than the item which is suited to a Z32/standard AFM. Q45 AFM will work fine. All the heresay that people post about regarding idling/tuning issues is misguided. I personally am running one on my RB30DET and had no issues with idle or tuning whatsoever. I know of several other examples on RB25/RB30's with similar setups and no issues. If it were me, and I wasn't going after spastic power (350+ RWKW from a single AFM setup) then I would go a Z32. Simple boltup and retune to get it to work.

I was told the reason behind one of the blown engines (if there was two?!) Coolant line near plenum/underneath plenum split... pissed all the water out rather quick. Engine had no coolant in it and the sensor simply was seeing air within the main coolant line to the motor. Hence went undetected by owner. Very unfortunate... That being said, kicked my arse into gear about replacing majority of the coolant lines in and around the car...

This was the reply I got from the supplier: I did ask for alot more information, but such is life! How do these dimensions measure up with the ones you have from your head Michael?

Got a reply back but still awaiting technical specs/dimensions from the appropriate department...

R32 Cat Back Exhaust. Obviously can be from a R32 GTR/GTST Coupe/GTS4/GTST 4dr 3-3.5" in size Must have "middle muffler" Would prefer NO CANNON at the section of the exhaust i.e. Twin 3" tips out of a muffler, single 3" tip etc. HOWEVER may be interested in one which has a "Cannon" Must be close to legal dB reading i.e. 90dB (A) (I think the sound tests are done at A weighting levels???) PM or contact me on 0401 317 009 require ASAP. Cheers, David

As Zebra said, I think your limiting factor will be your pistons/rods (depending on how much boost and the fuel you want to run). IIRC the ACL "forged" pistons are not actually forged - I could very well be wrong, but I remember reading something along the lines of this in the RB30 thread... Also to note - be wary of the condition of your valve-train (lifters mainly!). I may be having issues with my setup caused by ageing valvetrain or insufficient spring stiffness/seating pressure. At an absolute minimum get your head reco'd whilst its off and out of the car.

Indeed! Will keep you posted!

That would be much appreciated! Wont hurt to know which lifters are the same/different to one another...May help others with RB's know what's what when it comes to replacing the lifters for new items.

Yup. Im already on this. Sent an email to that supplier you kindly listed re: dimensions. Once I get a reply (if they are willing to share) we can compare to the RB25DE/Other hydraulic lifters. Hopefully they are a suitable replacement...at least for my wallet's sake!

They may fit one another's motor. That doesn't necessarily mean that they are the right lifter for that motor though- as per Cube's comment and the thread I linked to a few posts above. Cube's said that the RB20DET were marginally smaller- this caused the valve train to be a tad noisier.