TurboX

DAMN!! Just noticed this Wayne. AND forgot the meeting tonight! Gettin OLD!

Get rid of any Nortons progs as well. We diag probs caused by Nortons on LAPTOPS every day (-NOT desktops -OK there) Use Vet/CA or alternatives instead! PS if you like HALO2 you would LOVE TRIBES2!! -an oldie but would run great on your system and you would get more enjoyment out of it! Have not found a better FPS in 8 years since starting to play it!

Read complete thread and seen no mention of provision of clearance cut on bottom of bores to make sure top shoulder of rod does not hit on bottom of bore. Not seen on image of bottom of block either so do you know if you have to do this? It will become obvious on you first dummy fit and try to turn the crank slowly to see if you have the required clearance. This is definitely done on the jap engines I have seen and it was mentioned in the Zoom 2.4 build up. Good luck with it and hope it makes your target RWkW reliably!

LOL UN-FREAKIN Believable!! I guess the main diet up there is RICE!

Sorry, repost -cant delete!

I also have done this mod but its slightly different for a R32 GTS/4 as the pipe seems to have a bit more of a curve. I cut the rubber once in the middle flange and inserted a curved 3"Dia piece about 45degrees and just mooved the rubber back into the orig shape on the outside but did not clamp it at first because the fit was so tight. But I had idle issues that went away after clamping as you did.

You need a new high flow cat!

"and was told its running 10psi" ?? An accurate boost gauge would be a good start.

Art's calculated, in-car time was accurate to within six tenths of one second over the ninety mile road course! Seventy miles from the now distant starting line, we enter the first narrow canyon at a speed faster than we ever have in years before. Using caution, and keeping the speed at 130 mph, we glide though each turn as solid as a locomotive on banked rails. The posted highway signs recommend a maximum of 30 mph in the tight, high-wall canyon turns. We are streaking through corners at 100 miles an hour faster than that, but the Javelin feels stable. Use of both lanes during this race is the norm and one can only trust that no White Freightliner has gotten on the course by accident and is coming at you from around the blind corners. There is no sense in taking any unnecessary chances though this three mile area, so we don't. We were averaging 172 mph when we entered the canyon, and by the time we get back out on the flats, our average was down to 164 mph. Every second is critical, and the remaining 17 miles to the finish line must be taken as fast, but as careful as possible to try and make up the time lost in the "Narrows". The last turn out of the canyon brings us into the "Breezeway". A 2.5 mile downhill straightaway with the wind at your back and as smooth as glass. This is the only area that will allow you to accelerate faster than you would normally be able to anywhere else on the course. As expected, we are gaining speed at a phenomenal rate and were clocked on radar at 192 mph! And the pedal was never fully floored. The next right-hand turn brings us back to a "comfortable" speed of 180 mph as we re-engage "auto-pilot" for another ten miles. My wife Rhonda, and our good friend and "Crew Chief" Kevin Muckleroy were working the checkpoint at Mile 76, and as we passed by them at 180 mph we know we're almost 'home'. The last three turns on the course are fairly tight and must be taken with caution. 170 mph is our speed of choice. and as we exit the last left-hand turn, we are in the four mile straight towards the finish line. As we bring the speed back up to 180 or so, a slight head wind is encountered. Still, we crossed the finish line on radar at 181.6 mph! Elapsed time: 32 minutes, 21 seconds. Average speed for the ninety miles: 167 MPH. Top speed on radar: 192 mph. Art's calculated, in-car time was accurate to within six tenths of one second over the ninety mile road course! A record in itself. As the driver, I am extremely impressed! Only seven drivers of all makes of cars have ever averaged over 165 mph in the ten years of this event, and we now make it eight, putting an AMC car into the All-time, Top 10! We even put a six minute gap between us and the Callaway Corvette that left the line sixty seconds after we did! So much for the "Heartbeat of America", Huh? We also caught and passed the low flying, official chase airplane 82 miles from the start line! Just for the record, we have now driven an AMC powered, AMC car, faster than anyone in automotive history. The fastest recorded AMC top speed was set by Craig Breedlove in 1968 at Bonneville, at 189 mph in a 68 AMX with a supercharged 390 V-8. We did 192 mph without a blower. He did that speed in a full-race, production car on a professional offroad course. We went faster with a street legal, stock-bodied production car. On street tires, through the mufflers and wearing a license plate. We take nothing away from the achievements of the past, but must resign them to the past. After living through this incredible mixture of fantasy and reality, it is obvious to me now that "Great White" was, and is in fact, capable of better than 200 mph on the "street" or a track. Maybe yet another goal to accomplish. Great WhiteThe reward of a feat well done is to have done it and not just dreamed about it. We take pride in this new modern-day AMC accomplishment. For our hobby, its people, and "the cause" of underdogs everywhere. It was important and needed to keep our AMC flag flying high in light of our company being departed from the American automotive scene. This was a day in the sun for American Motors. Three AMCs entered, and all three finished in fine AMC style. The combined AMC Racing effort consisted of our Javelin, Jim Weyand in his 1969 AMX that ran a 139 mph average and Dan Bruerton in his 1969 AMX that ran a 128 mph average. No Mopar, Chevy or Ford could touch us. Only one Unlimited Corvette was faster. Some folks would disagree, but for those who believe in American Motors, no explanation is necessary. For those who do not believe in AMC, no amount of explanation is possible. It was the ragged edge of insanity. But that is what all automobile racing is about.

Whats age got to do with anything!??

Great shots, but can anyone say "Gutter Rash!"

The R33 is available with AWD in the NA GTS4 version. Just do the usual NA mods and enjoy the AWD till time comes to trade for a GTR which should be about $15K way prices are going in three years time.

Cause I read this whole damn useless thread and own a RB20 (and a Javelin) I am going to ask this:= What RB could beat the following:- Just for the record, we have now driven an AMC powered, AMC car, faster than anyone in automotive history. The fastest recorded AMC top speed was set by Craig Breedlove in 1968 at Bonneville, at 189 mph in a 68 AMX with a supercharged 390 V-8. We did 192 mph without a blower. No Mopar, Chevy or Ford could touch us at 190 Miles Per Hour! 190MPH AMC Javelin

well i have had my old and my mates TP on it, and i have set the base voltage on TP form 0.1v to .46 v and nothing changes. ?? - My TPS idle voltage is .30V and the TPS switch says off idle at .32V as soon as I start to accelerate. Dont know why yours would be so high? I also had surging problems but seemed to come good when I fixed all possible vacuum leaks after AFM and around BOV plumb back. PS Peter, soldered resistors to each knock sensor lead to fool ecu and no error 34! Unfortunately no knock sensors anymore either!!

There are a few different options for this, but NOT a simple "cable OR adapter". Go to Harvey Norman (or a computer shop) as they have a few choices that will allow you to do this when you explain your requirement.

Nice job, but my solution was to cut the rubber pipe in the centre in half and insert a 3" 90' Bend in Stainless steel. This neatly fits inside and does not block the std BOV feedback port where the rubber is solid to the turbo inducer anyway. I simply put two stainless worm clamps back over the rubber bend in between the bulges on each side of the cut to seal it again after making sure the angles were right so everything lined up OK at the AFM. I also chamfered the inner edge of the Stainless tube to allow less interference to the airflow at the AFM end. Cost $15 plus hours work all up.

Sounds like its over boosting to me. And how would you know if it shows max boost on your gauge - it could be 20 PSI for all you know. Check for leaks in your wastegate canister hoses etc.

Few of DOGZILLA with semi's and new/old mags.

I also replaced the stock pump with the bosch in tank 040 which I bought from Speed Tech in Mitcham. When I bought it they removed the one way valve which they said was not needed. Every Fuel pressure gauge I have put on there (4) has beaten itself to death in a short time with excessive fluctuation. I put the one way valve back in the line hoping to stabilise the reading but it has not helped. I also have a Malpassi silver top on there as well. Not sure which way to go from here.....

"Rocket Covers"?? - I like that. AS RB's dont have rockers and go like rockets, I guess it fits!

BOOOOOARING!!..... I have tried some of these! Try an action thinking mans game: TRIBES2 Its NOT Tribes Vengeance rubbish, or little boys HALO, but it is like UT only better and when you play you know your alive, or dead as the case may be! Sorry just my T2 cents worth

I have not seen anything in here regarding the reason your RB20 needs rebuilding. If you were saying it is making clattering or other oil related issues you MAY need to rebuild it. Sounds like you need to take it to someone who actually knows about RB's and how to diagnose and rectify problems reasonably!

Drivers side, under intake no 5 aprox on side of block just above sump. Some times has a small angled fitting and hard to unscrew. Small canister about 30mm dia with rubber gromet cover on top with two pin plug.

Move along.... Nothing to see here..

YUK