TurboX

I care what they do in the US as thats hopefully where they will make the fistfulls of $$ off gulible yanks that will be able to be burned producing the new GTR! And lets face it, run by Renault or not, we all want the new GTR to kick ass in European company ( Porsche, Lambo et al.)

I bought one of the Exhaust manifolds shown but a HKS brand for $550 off SAU forum advertiser and it took two months to get it. Thought I had been dudded but got it eventually. I fitted it along with a lot of other mods so cant say the difference it made but it has not cracked so far, but then again the car has been off the road a lot anyway. The dyno results talked about do not reflect the on road drivability that this type of manifold might provide in comparison to the standard item. I know we have to try to measure everything for comparison, but a dyno cannot tell the complete story regarding real world on road driving experience, and I dont drive at WOT everywhere in the city! I am sure it somehow contributes to the efficiency of the power output and hopefully will know very soon after a dyno session with Dr. Drift now that I have replaced my faulty knock sensors.

I would vote WHITE normally on a white car, but those would be difficult to keep clean so definately SATIN CHARCOAL

I used "The Head Stud" in that area who has been around for years in racing etc on my HR32 GTS4 RB20DET. They have a good rep but I found that you need to get a firm detailed quote in writing for what they are expected to do for the price and dont loose your copy. I had some issues in that area with them, but the job they did was pretty good. It turned out OK in the end so I will give them a plug.

The depressions (the covers not yours) are cast in to clear the current cable and possibly to get you to put a pic up were we can ask you to spray some wd 40 on the throtle springs and assy to lubricate it and stop further corrosion.

Almost unbelievable! I thought I would have to get the usual "cut & Polish" to get a result like that! With the usual burnishes on the black trim and white crap in the edges etc. Will have to give it a go with those products and see for myself.

Jason, you WISH! Also its probably a lot easier to get at on the drivers side if your upside down and trapped in your belt and you can smell something burning I would think some enterprising metal BASS worker out ther could do some Nissan perfect bracket that would bolt to the existing seat rail screws on both sides for security.

We wil just have to check all our back issues and see which mag features the Red Rocket the most Damn, you have to be quick in here!

Thats the one thing I dont have on my GTS4! Give you 100 if you persomnaly deliver it to melbourne.

The issue is "rolling diameter" the wheels tyres can be any size (within reason;-) as long as the rolling dia of each wheel is the same.

OREX - dont forget there is a specific procedure for bleeding that if not adhered to will make no difference. Did they know this proceedure? It was outlined in HPI some time ago.

Considering thats one thing on my GTS4 that actually is OK (I prey) what is the best lubricant to put in there to keep it that way and avoid noise/wear problems?

Sorry to hear that! Mine has just been rebuilt after spinning a few bigends thru lack of oil as screws in back of oil pump had come out. Did not belive oil gauge as common fault to read wrong. Please list problem in GTRGEOFF's thread on blown RB causes. What are you going to replace it with? RB30/25

If its a track car you dont need those huge round lower lights on each side. Remove them and put it on one side there where there should be plenty of airflow. Better yet put one each side as someone else suggested. OK - great minds think alike Ash!

Maybe a new Fuel Filter and the Fuel pump voltage supply mod. Braided Brake lines - the Aus approved ones with rubber flex ends & change fluid to Dot5 maybe. Larger Ryco Z9 os similar size HP oil filter. Vented top cover on Coil packs for cooling. Fan on Oil cooler thermo switched. Small cooler on power steering lines. Just my .02c

I would be double checking the actual true boost - it may be spiking badly and your not seeing it for some reason??

Alex at Hard Parts or Street & Strip Auto's in Seaford did some good work on my GTS4 Auto recently. Seem to know the Nissan boxes pretty well and reasonable pricing.

GTR has a dropping resistor standard as injects low impedance. 3 to 4 ohms I think standard. GTS has no dropping res as using high impedence Inj 12 to 13 ohms standard, but if you fit GTR inj you need to add the dropping res to GTS also. Hope that makes some sense....

Vic at Equiped Auto 11 Victory Rd Airport west Ph. 9330 2001 seem to do a good job. Also known as: EAS Performance

I just had a similar issue and it turned out to be the Detonation sensors -"WTF?" Anyway replacing with better newer (bosch?) ones. Soon..........

If you remove the turbo you will probably find it will be easier to remove the broken section after soaking in wd40 or similar and griping the extended part at the back of the flange? Maybe..?

Great pix Joel ! Perfect avatar for BASS, DEZZ Now I can see why Sam was glad when I rang and cancelled my dyno session on Tue cause his truck had stuffed wheel bearings!!

With a lot of us having problems with these senders it would make a good group buy item direct from Japan through someone that could do a good price as I just got quoted $215 from Nissan

Have done this a few times as well and it seems to clear up fairly quickly and I dont think it will be damaged. Probably idle it off in the driveway as some mongrel will see the smoke if your on the road and dob you in to EPA. Your breather should by rights vent back into the airbox intake.

That downpipe sounds like the one I got that definately improved response etc AFTER I had it rewelded and ported extensivly because of the crap construction. The way they inserted the 3" reshaped pipe into the flange left a lot to be desired and I am sure would have impeded and disrupted flow. Anyway LISTEN to the voice of reason!! (SK)