TurboX

I would be more scared about what mr Plod will say when he sees them!!

I wonder about some of you guys sometimes?? IS this price negotiable? Hell its a BARGAIN! Bloody hell I was happy to pay $35,000 for my GTS4 exactly the same as this. Admitedly it WAS nearly TEN years ago. Time flys when your havin fun modifying AND I dont know the owner, but he must be crazy selling it so cheap.

MINE!!

-Internals (Pistons, Cams and Gears, Rods etc) STOCK -Engine Management : STOCK - Prom by Martin Donon / MORPOWA -AFM or MAP : TOTALY Modified - Double size metering orifice to suit ;- -Injectors : MAZDA RX7 550 CCs -Cooler, Filter, Zaust, Gate etc etc : R33 FMIC custom tubing, 3'Stainless, Int Wgate -Boost : 2psi -Turbo : ATP Custom T3/T4 Hybrid -Fuel : standard AND OF COURSE YOUR DYNO GRAPH! Whats the use of a dyno graph when you can only rev to 3000RPM?

Yes the large hole is the drain that goes back into the block under gravity through the large hose down low into the sump. The metal pipe from the back oif the motor is the water cooling feed to the orig turbo, remove it back around where its in the rubber hose and block the rubber hose where it used to fit into. AND forget everything i just wrote below! Damn I did not look closely at first - you neeed another flanged fitting at the top replacing the spiraled pipe into the block! The other metal spiraled pipe is the oil under pressure top feed into the turbo bearing housing. Take that pipe of and make sure that it is completely clean inside and liquid can run through it - they can get blocked or gummed up - then look at the entry hole from the pipe tube into the centre banjo opening and enlarge it at each end if need be - one end may be reduced in size significantly - better to be opened up especially if not a ball bearing turbo. Make sure you use a new copper washer on the top and bottom of the banjo housing to make sure the bolt seals the banjo correctly. You DONT need oil weeping from here when the turbo is under pressure for obvious reasons.

No I dont, but my Daughter does if you have seen me driving around there. (slowly;-)

Dont bother trying RB2O & RB3O ;-) I needed a new plate - Any one want TURBO6 (TURB-06) Cut and shut?

I STILL just like the look of mine BUT SK, what if I do some mods to it to increase the airflow inside and even it up with dividers as shown by the lines in the below pics?? At the moment it is just one large plenum with some longer dividers at the entrance to each port.

I just like the look of mine If you wait a few months I may do some testing on our drag RB20 as we have pyros on each cylinder exhaust. I was thinking of swapping my manifold onto it after first testing the standard one - RB20 though!

CHANGE your fuel filter if not done so for a few years?

Shoulda joined the premium service in the first place mate!! (RAAF!) The WRAAF's will iron you out and have you feeling like a new man... Better not tell the missus. Pretty sneaky way of getting out of having to bring Roys GTR cams to the meeting for me though. I guess there will be no excuses for not shaving a few secs off the lap times now then? ;-)

Isnit a rule if you dont attend one in three meetings if your a member you get drawn and quarted by 4 GTR's?

Glad we clarified that! Its bad enough I always forget - I thought this month I might get a second chance ;-)

Thanks Roy - had forgotten again!! Wont complain if you ring me? Bye the way -go to bed its too damn late!

Look forward to your input.. as to the mods... a bit embarrasing but NOT MUCH! Its an RB20DE+T in stock spec. A $200 EKW Special bought as a spare for my GTS4 just in case I needed bits for my HR32RB20DET buildup. Turbo custom built to our specs by ATP Advanced Turbo Performance with a additional wastegate extension off the exducer housing leading to a stainless aircraft sourced gate valve that will be driven by boost and electric solenoid to by pass all the exhaust gasses except what we need to make our boost target. :werd: This is yet to be determined as we are running the std NA DOHC head at the moment and wont allow much but we will see what the Autronic can do to help. We do have a steel HKS 3mm Gasket to go on sometime soon but not yet. We have fitted my original GTS4 DET Exhaust Manifold so the turbo bolts up in the normal position but this will be replaced also along the way to see what measurable difference can be achieved. The dump from the turbo and the wastegate will only be a foot or so long and no silencing at all and straight out the drivers side guard as we want to make as much noise as possible! (LHD as proper race car!) The Intercooler will be an AIR/LIQUID setup with the original GTS4 Skyline I/C used as the boost air cooler and my old Starion FMIC used as the water cooler mounted in place of the original racecar radiator with a electric fan. The radiator and electric fan for the RB20 is out of my Starion and mounted in the tray over the back wheels and plumbed forward to the motor. Most initial expence and development is in the trans, high stall converter and transbrake. The turbo was the next most expensive part but we have not spent over ten grand in total yet! (Pro setup Drag car included) The bolt ons will increase till we break the bottom end then we will continue to build the rb20 up till we can go no further in power output. The RB30 and RB25 head we have on standby will come later on.... For now we just want to get the car on the track and make some passes to see how it tracks down the strip and gets off the line. Anyone want to guess what our first 1/8th mile and 1/4 mile pass will be :confused:

Unfortunately I made many changes all at the same time for ease of installation so impossible to tell. ;-(

HKS makes one - I bought mine from here a while ago and it seems to work OK. Needed to mod the exhaust heat cover though to fit. Paid $500 slightly used but OK. Took near 3 months to extract it from the seller after payment though!

I will gladly give a good home to anything RB related

My GTS4 RB20DET was 120 on all last time when OK so yours is down a lot _BUT EVEN! Does this mean that the timing is out a lot not allowing full compression - did you align the timing marks etc. correctly?? I have a set of GTR cams awaiting installation in our Dragcar RB20 when this is sorted out. I do have a spare stripped head so I will lay the GTR cams in it and dial them soon.

AUTO- When I drive around Phillip Island at speeds that frighten me I want both hands on the steering wheel !! Besides I'm OLD;-)

Can someone email me every day for a week beforehand :goddam:

That is sort of the idea - we want revs with less capacity. Does anyone know of a definitive list of all interchanging components on RB's?

Have you got the wastegate actuator pressure input directly routed from the intake manifold? If not its probably dumping bypassed gas too early and opening before the manifold sees full boost. Doing this made quite a difference to my GTS4 RB20DET in response.

Thanks Guy's! ;-) Some good feedback. More Info= Sorry should have done this earlier. We have 2 stock RB20DE's to burn -originally spares for my GTS4 - but not needed now. We also have a RB30NA block and RB25 NA head for further down the track when we exhaust the potential of the RB20 and see how far we go before it lets go! But for now we are happy to spend as little as possible to get it on the track for the first time as soon as possible as we just purchased it from a guy in QLD that run it with a Hemi. After all it is a Chrysler Valiant!! We have owned many of this model in coupes and Glenns old 318 pulled 12's with nitrous -been there done that. We also are building a AMC '69 Javelin 401cu V8 TowCar with a GMC Supercharger and Fuel Injection for those that MAY suggest a V8;-) No, we want to stretch the RB20 and eventually run the RB30/25DOHC when we get used to going reasonably fast with the little RB20. The Autronic will keep the tune OK hopefully so we wont destroy it with detonation and give us a chance to see how far the mechanicals can go under loads of boost. WE WANT TO BREAK IT!! But not too quickly! Our aim is to sit on the start line and take it to max revs and boost and drop the trans brake or is that BREAK;-) The sliks will NOT spin or slip - Check them out! The 9' diff wont break either and hopefully the Auto trans will hold together with over $3000 spent on the Jatco 3 speed, 5500RPM stall converter and Transbrake setup. We dont need no stink'n long torque tuned manifold runners ;-)

Hi Roy, if Turbine & I (RB Racing) make 450/500 RWHP we will do tens as previous owner did with a Hemi 6 Chrysler. We want to do it with around 2 litres. I guess I did not explain very well but I was looking outside the square on this one like for instance .... An rb30 with RB20 crank & rods... ?? Interesting most responses were on the valves being able to handle the revs but no one mentioned crank/rods/pistons and more importantly piston speeds. We are starting with a totally stock RB20 with a ATP custom Turbo with a custom wastegate from an aircraft, as well as custom Air to Liquid intercooler and 3mm TRUST Metal Head Gasket on cleaned up NA head. Autronic will manage the spark and fuel with custom intake and 12 standard RB20 Injectors and VL Turbo Pump. More on this setup here RB20 Dragcar here