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Everything posted by TurboX
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rb26 cams in rb20 with standard ECU works!
TurboX replied to WazR32GTSt's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Roy I have 2 NA cams I can loan you if req. -
I want to complain that this site is costing me too much money!! Ever since I got on here I have found heaps of people selling stuff that I want and think I need AT GREAT PRICES!! Before I knew about this site I was under the impression I could not afford or obtain all those power producing parts. So far its 'only' up to $1085, but seems to be rapidly escalating :Oops: Anyone else have this complaint? How much??
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RB20DET Apexi Power FC
TurboX replied to Adz's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
ditto -
Are Skyline calipers cast iron or aluminium?
TurboX replied to T0nyGTSt's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
My GTS4 R32's are finned alloy and wire brushed to death! Or at least a half decent shine. -
First time you line up with a falcodore at the lights and its like today in Melb (WET) you will know you made the right choice! DO - change all fluids unless already done. Change Fuel and Oil filters. Check in boot on drivers side for fluid level in AWD txfr case reservoir. New plugs - Plat NGK's, New panel filter, remove front entry plastic into air box behind headlight but leave bit attached at front to rad support panel so no hot under hood air coming in. DONT put on POD! Remove mesh on AFM. Replumb waste gate solenoid reference from near Turbo comp outlet to the inlet manifold so better response. Check under plastic boots that go ontop of plugs for arcing of springloaded contacts and file flat if corroded. Fit accurate boost gauge to check no overboosting or problems with vacuum. Do not play with boost until you have the gauge installed. Reset ECU - disconnect bat. then foot on brake, reconnect. If an Auto dont replace ByPass valve on engine crossover pipe with a BOV -stuffs response and does not need a BOV like a manual. Then... 3" Exhaust / Etc.
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Its an auto, and it was my first time out the drags with it. Probably the last too, considering the damage and time off the road :Oops:
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First time down the front straight at Phillip Island told me its 180Km. SHIT was that the TURBO!?! :Oops:
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The BEST is what suits you and your driving requirements. To ME, the best is the GTS4! (R32 - TURBO) R33 NA. In 1997 I wanted an AWD Skyline Turbo and the GTR was over $50K! So I paid $33K for the GTS4, an Auto, it was available in Black the colour my wife and I wanted. (She had to sell her car so we could buy it :Oops: Never looked back since, although the Auto needed to be fully rebuilt, -Kevlar clutches 2800 Stall etc. $3K 3mths! The specs of the RB20 (R32) are very similar in both cars wether auto or manual, but the GTS4 is virtually GTR running gear except drive shafts smaller. So it weighs a bit more obvoiusly. Around 100Kg I think. Has the advantage of AWD and if I want RWD I just pull the fuses to the Transfer clutch pump motor. OK, so its "Wife of Godzilla" but to me thats the next best thing. Last dynoed at 170Kw but hunting for more. (14.1 @98Mph 2.6 0-60)
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Hey arch, you need to read the whole thread to find the link to the list of cams and differences -somewhere in there near front. This is an interesting thread if you have an RB20DET as I have and modifiying looking for 250AWkws. Seems some have had probs ( Binding Inlet) and some have been fine (Sydneykid) SK has come up with the likely answer in maybe they are slightly bent! It seems to be possible but has anyone checked their cams -BBenny? Waz? It worries me that I cooked the motor at Calder as well, but the Head guys said its OK and straight but not sure I want to put the old cams back in now. I want to do this mod as I have just done extensive work on the head and it sounds like if it works it makes some great power, BUT I am not sure on the Idling probs either that some have had after fitting. I have a mod ECU as well which could complicate it further. Maybe going Power FC. Sydneykid, do you have any suggestions on the best suited cams that wont bind up with too much lift in the RB20 as there seem to be many dif specs of RB26? Also considering your info on the Chev, is there mods to improve the followers like drill larger/more oil holes or maybe chamfer etc?
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RB20DET Turbo stock dump/down pipe
TurboX replied to Rayage's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Sorry about quality - webcam :Oops: Notice I tried to increase flow around wastegate area near O2 sens. so not quite standard. -
RB20DET Turbo stock dump/down pipe
TurboX replied to Rayage's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Hang on - I will photo it in 5 and put it here tonight -
Mazda Familia GTX - Wifes AWD Turbo -150Kw.
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Only if its not venting to atmosphere and plumbed back in like the standard unit as far as I know. Then you loose the sound, so might as well have the stock unit and no problems.
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I assume you have changed the head because they are very different. Buy the NEW Head gasket at a Nissan dealer about $150? I think for all. Why cause all the drama to do it all twice? :Oops: Make me an offer on the std I/C. but may not have all brackets/piping.
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FUEL - Flow/Pressure?
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You did not say you changed the plugs but I guess that was a given? :Oops: I know when I last had fitted iridium plugs and got MD to dyno my car he had to change back to platinums to get rid of misfiring. Even gave me back my $30 each investment
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Mine are just chrome - no colour at all. Would be easy just to paint in some red or whatever...
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Splitfires $600!!? Me too. "unlike injectors"?? - Is this why when I installed RX7 Injectors they did not seem to all be firing properly on my R32 GTS4? Cant the ECU handle the same impedence larger injectors OK?? Sorry if off topic.
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Great if you have Manual, but what if you have an Auto?? Anyone had experience with the TSI?
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Sorry Roy, my post on this item was a bit ambiguos - the NA Head has much smaller volume chambers than the Turbo Head. As you say, for higher comp. ratio. Unfortunately the NA cams are the same as the Turbo - Bummer! I really did think they would have more Lift/Duration but apparently not. I was looking forward to more duration at least
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As mentioned , same as GTR. Interesting thing if one of your tyres goes down a bit you can always tell because the AWD starts to be on all the time at a low %. If you get new Wheels/Tyres you have to maintain the same rolling dia to make sure its not on all the time as well as I found out after purchasing some new back tyres. Thought I would go a bit larger and had to swap them straight off again. I actually have another two NA RB20DE's I bought for spares from EKW for $200 each complete (no G/Box) Both seem perfect with all access. I am not sure on the exact differences in the Block but I do know that the combustion chambers are double? the volume by looking at them in the head. I was nearly going to do up the NA head until I realised just in time before they started work after cleaning it up. :Oops: Anyone out there know if the NA block is same as Turbo block??? Could always do a 2.4 with the RB26 Crank I guess.
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Interesting that your head gasket problem sounds exactly the same problem as mine. I wonder if this is more common than we think? I have a feeling that the water had seeped in behind the metal sealing ring and was sitting there for a while as it was slighlty corroded, but not on the ring sealing surface, just as well. I am going to just put the new one on and fill the corroded bit with hylomar so hope it will be OK as the metal sealing ring block surface is OK. I am tending to think that it went because I cranked the boost up a bit and slightly advanced the timing on my fourth run trying to crack 13's ( - Did everything you should NOT do at the drags! ) I probably detonated it through the already corroded metal ring.
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I have fitted JIC HD Coilovers with pillowballs (bought as new Reco $1400) Fitted, adjusted and aligned by Ralph at TRU Track in Nth Melb. Handles well and is stable at speed but frontend ploughs a bit on tight corners. May look at GTR rear bar to solve this. A bit of weight upfront with extra large Oil and Trans coolers and fans as well as R33 FMIC. Turbo is T4/T3 Backcut ATP special. Getting new S/S 3" Dump and separated Wastegate pipe joining back in about 30" downstream. If I could get it off the line and a decent 60' it would be low 13's maybe
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As I intend to tune it right -probably with a Motec M4 piggyback (its an auto) I guess the stock gasket will do the job by the look of your GTS4!! I dont aspire to 10's but maybe it is possible if you want to point me at more on your 10 sec GTS4. Others are getting 10's from 2 Ltrs but I have not seen an RB20 powered skyline getting anywhere near that before. Most try and tell me its gutless and fit an RB25/26/30.