SLY33

this is good. any chance of a sound file of your idle r32-gts? love to hear it as im choosing cams at the moment.. can someone explain the "function" of 1) increasing the duration, and 2) increasing the lift?? i know that the higher duration means the valve is open longer, and that higher lift is opening the valve more, but what does each of these achive as far as peak power gained vs low down power lost, torque etc?? i guess im asking what does it do to the shape of the power curve?? as you can get smallish duration with biggish lift eg 260 10.8, and bigger duration and smaller lift.. thats what confuses me. which does what and which suits what?! cheers

the cams are great, no real noticeable change in idle.. i thought it sounded a little more throbbing/pulsing at idle, but its probably psychological as i hadnt heard it idle for ages, hehe. its quite responsive, but its still pretty far off the std turbo! i think it feels more responsive because you get a heap of torque even while its spooling. Hits hard at 4k, but pulling way below that. I think any more lag and it wouldnt be such a good street turbo so i wouldnt consider any larger exhaust AR. Even with the .68 you can get caught just off boost round some slower corners, doesnt take long to build tho. make sure you sort your diff out, as you want a controllable rear end when it bags them up! A worn out viscous lsd would be a bit sketchy to say the least. when do you get your tune and whos doing it?

also keen on this, a useful link to some basic info http://www.hpcoatings.com.au/pages/auto.htm

by the way i strongly recommend you make up something like this: as no gasket comes in the kit, or is even available, and make sure to add a washer between the heat shield and the dump pipe around the top stud AND use some sealant, as we had a problem that the afforementioned washer fixed. (reason is the heatsheild flange is forked, not round, and air leaks from the stud hole out the forked bit of the heat shield bolt flange! cheers

This turbo is THE bomb. It is totally awesome for a low mount and internal gate turbo, and makes an absolute weapon of a street car. Prepare to fry your tires like never before! heres my latest tune. The tuner was wrapped and said it was probably the best street car hes driven, which is a pretty big statement! 281.7rwkw at 17psi. Im told that this is pretty much the maximum for this turbo, which rated at 420ps, is making nearly 500hp at the fly. I know some have seen 300rwkw, but i think that may have been taking measures to hold shut the wastegate! Stock manifold and plenum by the way, only addition are good ol tomei 256 poncams as recommended by SK.

just took my WA registered GTR through Regency to get SA plates, no problems at all. Now they have separated the "full pit inspection shed" from the "identity check shed". The new shed is a few blocks away, and i found everyone there to be pretty cool. Basically you go to the main office, get your forms and they tell you to take the car to the new inspection location. Once its checked you go back to the main office and process the forms and get your plates. I made everything as stock as i could. I was surprised that no request to remove the kickpanel was made. No inspection of the turbos was made either (you can clearly see HKS on them). He had a quick look at the tyres, had dished jap 18's on, and that was it. Basically for the ID check i would say theres nothing to worry about so long as you remove the obvious mods.

haha, keyboard tuners yeah mik, well the vast majority of people saying they'd be laggy etc hadnt even tried them! but that was enough to seed doubt in my mind before i actually experienced them for myself! so thats turbos sorted, now its cams can anyone tell me how much lift affects top end power? are there any rules of thumbs to go by, such as 'x'mm increase in lift will give 'x' kw extra? at this stage im thinking of something around 270 duration with at least 10+mm lift.

Was lucky enough to score a ride in a GTRS equipped GTR the other day. Stock stroke rb26, 260 high lift cams, and with compression ratio slightly lower than std this car makes 380rwkw at 1.3bar. (Motor was still fresh, soon to get tuned with more boost.) I was extremely impressed and in about 30seconds i was sold on these. i will definitly be getting a pair. Still using dead stock exhaust manifolds (unbridged), the turbo shuffle was extremely minimal, pretty much on par with my 2530's! depending on what gear your in you wouldnt even notice it. while the dyno sheets may look it, they certainly dont feel laggy, and response felt not far off of my 2530 setup. Full boost at just over 5000rpm, but still pulling nicely from the midrange. And they hit awesomely when full boost arrives, and dont let off till you hit the limiter (8200 in this car)! i can only imagine that on a higher comp ratio 2.8litre, these turbos will be nothing short of sensational.

hey jop, good response up there, hehe might i suggest you try to get hold of a later model GTR motor, such as an r33 one, as opposed to a r32 one? Just as your going to so much trouble, you may as well get the slightly better and newer motor in there. That is unles you were planning to rebuild it first anyway..

hahah lol at this thread now, any bets on how long till mods shut it down seeing as most of it has nothing to do with forced induction??! but hey, while we're talking... one thing i considered when i first got the GTR was to put my old GTS series 1 spoiler on it, and get a GTS25T sticker for the bootlid, and ditch the GTR badge, im sure it would be taken as a GTS with the GTR guards and kit etc, and shock a lot of ppl when it blows them off the line curious as to the proffesion of jopjop also!

this has become a bit of a JOP bashing thread. While this is a public forum and people are entitled to their own opinion... well perhaps negative opinions should be kept to yourselves, especially as the thread title is "what to do next, power wise" NOT "what do you guys think of my conversion?" ! he has stated that hes gone too far to abandon the project and buy a genuine GTR, and thats understandable, my gtst owes way more than a r33GTR, and i never intended it to blow out like that! I never set out to make it look like a GTR, just a clean gtst, its completely debadged, yet funnily enough ive had many people come up to me and say "NICE GTR!!" lol who can honestly say they have not ever blown money on something thats not worth it in other peoples opinions, or you couldve got the same result for cheaper? Maybe only then you have the right to bag JOP

must be absolutely showroom condish, hope you dont park in your driveway out in the weather! i have 2 skylines, and you make me feel poor lol

I agree on fake badging a non genuine car, MOST of the time. BUT if you ask me, the WORST thing you can get is a car that is OBVIOUSLY not a GTR, and then has GTR badges all over it, that sh!ts me because its so obvious. As long as this car looks 100% like a 34GTR from all aspects outside the car, then i wouldnt have a problem with it, as long as nothing points to the fact that its a mock up! To everyone else bar the owner and his friends, this car is the real deal R34 GTR, so you get my ok on the bagdes i havent studied the pics thoroughly, does it have the correct rear quarters? its obvious that a conversion like this may not be worth it in terms of what you end up with, but i dont think there is any need for others to state the obvious! Its his money and as long as he is chuffed with his end result thats all that matters at the end of the day. cheers

ahh its nice to see that im not the only one sitting here throwing countless dollars into a motor, that could be paying off my house

Item for sale is a series one RB25DET motor. Includes: complete unopened long motor, from sump to cam covers. standard plenum (minus throttle body & cross over pipe) standard set of working coil packs (minus ignitor box) new timing belt along with all the idler bearings replaced DOES NOT INCLUDE: exhaust manifold, turbo, clutch/flywheel Condition of motor is excellent, with compression and leakdown tests performed at Tilbrooks a week ago, just before motor removed from car, showing excellent compression and leakdown maximum of only 6% (where up to 10% leakdown is acceptable. I have covered approximately 40,000kms with this motor (85000km on odometer), without ever missing a beat. Particular attention has always been paid to good tuning, good fuel, and good servicing. Oil is fanatically changed sometimes every 3000kms, and i have a log book of every service since i purchased the car ~2 years ago. Only top quality fully synthetic oil has ever been used, with log book detailing brand, grade and filter used at each change! Reason for sale: It is purely for my own peace of mind that i am swapping my stock motor for a fully rebuilt forged internals motor. Ever since my 2835ProS kit went on the standard motor, boost has never gone over 17psi. I have been wanting to crank the boost up for a while, and was told to just throw a head gasket in the stock motor and go for it. But i am extemely fussy and am a big fan of peace-of-mind! Therefore i wanted the security of knowing that i can safely push my turbo to its limits without finding the limits of the standard motor. Tuning has only ever been done by Simon @ Morpowa, and i have always been happy with his safe but effective tunes. Knock levels are consistently under 20. The 2835 has been on the car only a short while, and so the motor has not been making 265rwkw for long. Several people that have come to Tilbrooks enquiring about putting a RB25 into their R32, and Mark has recommended using my motor, stating that buying a motor from a yard or importer can be risky as these motors have often been sitting around for long periods and history is completely unknown. Whereas the health and good running of this motor is ensured. (this picture of actual engine for sale, taken just before respray) PRICE: $2500 LOCATION: North Adelaide (City) Can organise transport interstate. Please PM me for further contact details, or further information.

over 9:1 is getting a bit high for a street car, and will be boost limited if using pump fuel IMO. The last time i heard 11.5:1 was when talking about a 350 Chev smallblock! Isnt that too high in a turbo RB application? 9:1 however should be great! You should easily meet your target, even with a lower CR. So far results from the TO4Z have been awesome (drool at R32-GTS's results). You "might" need a smidgen more boost than 16psi..

very true kwazza.. how much larger diameter are we talking? how about the HKS stainless ones? im thinking of going an HKS stainless balance pipe type. Not cheap tho! could always go the UAS ones and weld my own pipe between them? so whats the gist of the aftermarket stainless mani's? is it top end power more than response? or are they meant to have good response too?

dude that is sweet. if that was in my garage i would sit and look at it for ages

what power do you currently have? bear in mind that over 300rwkw with a 2.5litre is going to give you big traction problems, let alone a 3litre! if your down in SA in the near future your welcome to come for a spin in my GTS-t. Its getting a rebuilt 25 dropped in as we speak, and should have at least 280+rwkw with all the response youd want. RWD: there is a point at which more power will = slower on the street, unless you have the room to wind out 3rd gear! Once you get over 300rwkw those extra kw's start to cost big dollars, whereas you could possibly keep to a decent budget under 300rwkw. my opinion if you want 350+rwkw, sell your car, buy a GTR and start from there! my 2c

this one came with the car, unsure of boost but i think its 18psi. Looks like full boost by ~4750rpm. HKS 2530's and split dumps Z32 AFMs Power FC sard 700cc injectors full 3.5inch exaust, cat pipe standard motor and cams usual support mods. was retuned at racepace 330kw at the wheels (rear?) at 18psi. Unfortunately that dyno sheet is unavailable.

this is of great interest to me currently as im yet to choose turbo(s) for my new build. please no chatter or conversations as to make the thread easier to wade through if it gets as big as the rb25 thread! all relevant engine mods would be great too. cheers

i believe TUF31 on here can suply rods for your application, might be worth sending him a pm, cheers.

sorry, but lol at "thrush" bearing:D

over 350kw at the treads and tread very lightly into 3rd. other than that if you shift with a bit of consideration the stockie should be fine depending on its condition.

depending on where you buy the kit from rods may/may not be included in certain kits. i think from what ive read step 1 and 2 uses forged cranks, step 3 is a billet crank. step 2 and 3 use nickel/molybdenum coating on the pistons. I think rods are same in all kits. thats as far as i know.