SLY33

no wont bolt to std dump. the kit comes with its own stainless dump.

im running re55s's, awesome when warmed up, but im still shy at the traffic lights if ive been cruising around and they arent warmed up! Especially with this cold weather recently in SA, the damn things cool off too quick!

SOLD cheers

im 99% sure thats the numbers (dont have them beside me) For those interested, Postage to Sydney will cost ~$20, and i presume cheaper still for Melbourne. cheers.

as first stated, BRAND NEW, never been on a car. selling them as i dont have a R32GTR to put them on! cheaper than you will find elsewhere. PS, the pic attached above is for illustration, the discs for sale are exactly the same but still in their boxes and plastic wrap.

why is location no longer showed under avatar?

Brand new in boxes, DBA 4000 series FRONT rotors for 32 GTR. Slotted. Part no 4926. $400 for the pair. In Adelaide but will post at buyers expense.

yeah seen them at UAS. Quality of finish is about the same as garret stuff, not sure about internal quality though. They call it a 500hp turbo (going on the basis that the turbo you mean is the internal gate job like in the above picture), but i dont know where they get that from, it looks like a baby next to my 2835ProS that will only make ~460hp at the most. That said thought i think UAS were getting somewhere round 250 at the wheels which is good for what it is. If i remember correctly i think it is oil cooled only. (?) edit: if they are US made then that might explain why they call it a 500HP turbo.

how a turbo spins when its off the car and you spin it with your fingers is not a good indication of how free it spins! depending on whether its new, used, has a bit of dust in the core, getting dry, etc... you'll find many second hand turbos that have been sitting wround a while to feel gluggy and not spin very well, but get them on the car and you'll hear them spin down after shut off. i believe any half decent ball bearing turbo that has steel wheel will spin for some time after shut down. not so much the stock ceramic stuff, maybe not enough inertia in the wheels to keep them spinning for long after you turn off.

yeah just wind it in so it just touches. Straight away i noticed a more positive pedal, maybe you expected too much, or maybe your standard brake lines and/or fluid are due for replacement, or you have bad pads or a comination of all of the above. if you want to get the most out of the std setup, get some good pads, braided lines and good fluid. Even try giving them a bleed.

just do em up finger tight, she'll be right.

i remember sydneykid worked this out. top of fifth was around 270km/hr?! So your about right bass junky. quote:- "been a while since i had the old r33.. but 1st was about 40km/hr 2nd up to 70km/hr 3rd up to 120km/hr" you say all at 7000rpm, but with those speeds you musta been granny shiftin!

thread title says R33. Post says R32. Which is it? i dont think best offer is permitted, dont you have to post a price as per those rules we have all read?

OPTIMA YELLOW TOP. You can get one thats factory size or you can get a bigger one that will still fit. IMO there is no other way to go, forget anything else. Armed forces and other organisations use these batteries in all kinds of heavy duty equipment where reliabilty is paramount, so if its good enough for them, you cant go wrong. Fully sealed, awesome repeatable outputs, and very hard to kill, deep cycle so you can flatten it and not hurt it. In fact the easiest way to kill it is forgetting it on the charger and over charging it! These things charge very fast. There are imitation designs around that boast the same features, but optima has been around longer than most people realise. obviously i have one of these babies!

from dump pipe to cat is called a downpipe. When you buy a dump pipe on its own its usually just a stumpy pipe leading to your downpipe. There are guys who make custom dump/downpipes in one piece tho. My HKS dump pipe mated straight up to my 3inch downpipe which used to connect to the factory dump pipe.

you cant run less boost than the base spring allows. if its a 1.2 bar spring, then thats as low as you can go. Altering the rod length wont work for you. i was told it was 10psi actuator when i got it, but then i never saw boost that low... as in pm, get a r33 stock actuator and you'll be sweet.

lunaticR32, you dont need rims, what you need is a 2 way diff!

its an r200, from what im told, you will just need to use the 2 main diff bolts from an r33, and swap the rear hats over. Which is what the r32 buyer was going to do. the new diff im using now is from an R32 and im told they are same as s13. All i did was use 32 diff bolts and a r33 rear hat and it bolted straight in no fuss.

This diff is now available again. Sale not successfully completed! by the way, diff and housing weighs in at 35kg, from recent enquiries for the unsuccessful sale melbourne buyers are looking at just under 50$ for shipping to Brunswick bus depot. cheers

where is bexley?

SOLD, thanks for the interest.

i was asked to hold it until tuesday but havent heard back from the buyer as yet. if not confirmed by monday then it will be available. by the way does anyone know the weight of an r200 diff and housing? my scales have gone missing. im guessing ~30kg? cheers

item currently 'on-hold'! awaiting confirmation of sale.

selling the diff as ive just bought another 2 way diff and housing with 4.3 ratio. (the one selling is the standatd 4.1)

hi greg, im no diff expert but ill tell you what i know... The main benefit over a std viscous centre diff is that you will NOT get any open wheeling business. When you bag it or spin the wheels you get consistent 2-wheel drive. This will improve launches. When exiting corners same deal. I found the back end to be infinitly more predictable and controllable when on the slide/power oversteer, over the std diff (my stocky diff used to lsd on-and off a bit). 2 way means it locks under acceleration and deceleration, where the 1.5way locks only under accel. From my own experience, the back end is far more controllable on the limit, and when the tail gets out too far and i back off suddenly, it straightens up whereas with the stock diff it would do a 180 spin much more readily. the only time you know its not a stocker is that when turning slow tight corners you will get some clunking as the diff locks/unlocks. but give it some gas and you get a very nice spin turn