SLY33

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as many people know, these forums ARE viewed by authorities. Given the light of recent hoon publicity, just dont forget to state that the race cats etc are used only on track days and official race events. This is a pretty good forum with fairly sensible members, so talking about throwing flames anywhere other than on the race track isnt the best thing for the forum.

i presume you mean pics of the insides... sorry dont have any. It was inspected internally by UAS about 5000k's ago and said to be in perfect nick.

selling my cusco 2-way diff, 4.1 ratio, excellent condition, in R33 Housing, just bolt in. Also fit R32 if you swap the rear hats over and use different bolts, simple. An absolute must have for any budding drifters or any high powered skyline still using the standard lsd! in adelaide $990ono *** Diff was sold but buyer ran out of funds at last minute :chairshot

taping the coils can help if its a fine crack in the housing, but you may have a dying coil on its way out. As mentioned check out your timing, if its ok, its a plug or a coil issue. But seeing as your running a small plug gap already id still suspect the coils. I had the same problem, gapped down my plugs and it went away. Then it came back later on, that time i taped the coils to fix the problem. Then it came back again as i modded for more power, at which time i upgraded to splitfires and havent seen the problem since.

very true SK! Thats why id love to see even just a personal result from a forum member so we can get even a bit of an idea! So what your saying disco is that because the garret stuff doesnt bolt straight in, so far no-one has been too bothered to save a quid and try make one fit..! It sounds great, if the garret stuff is internally the same and half the price! There must be other restrictions as to why people dont use them in place of HKS? Its obviously not as simple as a T3 flange adaptor..

oooh robos 80-90 knock, id be going back to the tuner and get some timing pulled or something! im happy with my tune if i dont see over 30 knock... at the moment after a full on thrash i get about 28, and occasionally a 30. as far as 10 knock is concerned, i think if let out a good fart when driving i might see that

I found removing the TB made it a million times easier to access the bolts on the underside of the top half of the plenum. But im sure youll find a Mr.Fantasic on the forum that'll say you wont have the remove the TB. But really, its only another 5 minutes work.

Whenever someone asks about HKS turbos, there is always a few people jumping straight in recommending the cheaper Garret equivalents which use "the same" or supposedly nearly identical bits. What i dont recall seeing is anyone posting up results of these equivalents which can be used for a back to back comparo against the HKS stuff. There are plenty of dyno sheets of hks2530's, 2535's, 2540's, GTRS, 2835 and 3037! With so many people backing these garret equivalents, id really like to see some results. If theyve been done and ive missed them, please provide a link. cheers

it used to be high flow vs gt2530, now all the rage is GTRS vs 2835 People are quickly getting used to power! I remember when 180rwkw was something to oo and ahh about! Having the 2835pro myself, i wouldnt describe it as having a lack of response, and thats after moving up from a super punchy 2530. In my opinion both the gtrs and 2835 would make awesome street turbos, but at the end of the day the 2835pro has that extra bit of huff.

you definitly wont NEED a twin plate. there are some pretty usable but tough single plates out there. Im using a 9 puck extreme sprung centre single plate built for 220rwkw, but i have 265rwkw and extra sticky re55s AND i give it a fair bit. i can get it to slip if i drive stupidly, but for normal full throttle driving with normal gear changes its fine. As mentioned above you can quite easily get a single plate that can handle 300rwkw.

i have lots of ppl asking me "What A/R did you get?" ***Edit*** now im confused myself.. i thought i had the same turbo as grepin with the 0.8x A/R but it seems greenline where i got it from only sell a 0.68 A/R version. The USA HKS site also lists TWO int gate versions, and i was under the impression that only one size A/R was available in internal gate, and that it was 0.8x A/R. ..So if you get the comprehensive kit that i got from greenline, just order it and it will all be sweet, there is nothing to choose Also getting lots of PMs about what comes in the greenline kit. EVERYTHING comes in the kit. (F-con mini is no longer part of the kit -you dont want it anyway.) cheers.

yeah he's told me, possibly because of the cams. So far i havent tried anything more than 17psi, which it holds right to redline. Even if it drops off once the cams go in, you can still run more boost through the rest of the range and get more power/torque. At the end of the day though the 2835ProS is an awesome little piece of kit!

19psi!? i dont think so! the 266rwkw is made at just 16.5psi. I want to wind it up to about 18 maybe 19 once the cams go in. That sexy dump is none other than a genuine HKS one!

i had my FC tuned before i put my super-clunky 2-way diff in, but the clunks never register knock to my knowledge. Especially on slow speed tight corners the clunks are very abrupt and shake the car around, but no knock. I also have the same aluminium cradle bushes. I had a problem with spontaneous knock and thought it might be the sensors, but it turned out to be simply bad fuel. Try some mobil synergy and see if it makes any difference?

If you think that cams will only give you 10rwkws peak then you are not realising their full benefit! Its the midrange increase which can be substantial as well as some increase in spool up time. This means more engine flexibility (ie drivability) Also depending on the cams you will lower the dynamic compression so you can run more boost with the std 9:1 CR, keeping a nice crisp off boost response.

i realise that theres not much $ left for cams, but since your going the whole hog, full rebuild, id just wait a little longer till you can add cams to it, that way your saving on tuning in the future --> because you WILL want them later! Personally i wouldnt bother with the cam gear but thats just me! my HKS exhaust cam gear is still sitting on the shelf after about 2 years, now that im getting some poncams i wont even need it...

redback, not a massive fan of graphics but dont mind yours. Love the short skirt more though.

DUDE! why would you want to put those on your car?! :chairshot

loving this car! free bump.

depends on the state of the plugs themselves as it couldve been an easy 60k or a hard driven 60k. If you do it carefully with a good gap tool it shouldnt weaken them. My plugs dont usually stay in for too many k's so if it were me id just get new ones. depends on your application, stock or modified, boost etc...

so whats with the people that say dont jump start your import as you can fry the FC/computer? Is this an urban myth? either way ive never had a problem doing it...

try it the correct way, if it works then your probably ok

yeah as above if you just cruise and dont flog it will hardly see any boost and be fine. Before you drive to melbourne to get the tune, do you have all your support bits?! you may overlook it but youll need a z32 afm and your fuel system upgrades etc etc..

ok so this super high boost application, out of question for a street car on pump yeah? Wouldnt the turbos need massive airflow potential to be efficient at that kind of boost??