SLY33

i have just changed to splitfire coils, and it is still recommended to keep the plug gap to 0.7 or 0.8mm. On the street it ran fine at larger gaps (i tried up to 1mm) but on the dyno it missed badly up top of the rev range. as a point of interest, with plug gaps at 0.7mm, i gained roughly 3rwkw on the same dyno in the same conditions since changing the coils to splitfire, nothing else changed. Its probably insignificant, as i didnt do numerous runs and take an average, but its nice to see

start a poll and see how many people really understand even elementary physics and flow dynamics! I did physics at uni years ago, but bugger if i can remember it now! I like Sk's explanations, and i think its good to get things explained in a back-to-basics way, especially when there is so much misconception about boost, power and efficiency floating around. Usually the first question people ask me on the street about my car is "How much boost is it running!!?" I think that sums up the main misconception about turbo systems!!! a bit off track, but i dont want SK to get discouraged!

start a poll and see how many people really understand even elementary physics and flow dynamics! I did physics at uni years ago, but bugger if i can remember it now! I like Sk's explanations, and i think its good to get things explained in a back-to-basics way, especially when there is so much misconception about boost, power and efficiency floating around. Usually the first question people ask me on the street about my car is "How much boost is it running!!?" I think that sums up the main misconception about turbo systems!!!

I have a pair of DBA4000 series "Front" rotors to suit R32 GTR (&R33gtst) They are BRAND NEW still in unopened boxes, now $450 if any info needed on these rotors have a search or check out the DBA website. Many forum users are currently running them as a great street/trackday rotor upgrade. direct any questions via PM please. these were meant to be r33 GTSt rotors, so i can swap them with DBA if anyone wants them for an r33.

Z3n2k: hey, sorry for that, you are right. I just double checked the catalog and measured them up to confirm they are indeed 32GTR rotors.

reason i posted about the catalog being wrong is that i was origingally sent 32GTR rotors instead of 33gtst ones, and the ones i have now are supposedly the correct ones, but i havent even opened the boxes yet. Ill crack one open and have a measure.

Not sure about all this commision business! but anyways... in regards to colours i can understand wanting to keep a custom mix a secret, but if its a factory colour then its really no secret anyway! in regards to price of resprays just bear in mind that with pretty much anything that involves labour, you are usually going to get what you pay for. Theres nothing worse than a nice car (or potentially nice car) with a cheap paintjob! runs, drips, poor masking, bad buffing... You dont have to spend 8k to get a good paint job. But the difference between 3k and 5k will be worth it IMO. Colour changes among the import scene is very common atm. Good if you want to stand out from standard, but youll have to spend a little more to stand out from all the cheap jobs.

These were supposed to be 33GTSt rotors but are actually 32GTR rotors. Unless someone wants these for their 32GTR, i will get them exhanged for the 33GTSt ones. Part numbers are 4926SR and SL. They are slotted, kangaroo paw, TSP, and all that jazz...

I have a pair of DBA4000 series "Front" rotors to suit R32 GTR (&R33gtst) They are BRAND NEW still in unopened boxes, now $450 if any info needed on these rotors have a search or check out the DBA website. Many forum users are currently running them as a great street/trackday rotor upgrade. direct any questions via PM please. these were meant to be 33 GTSt rotors, so i can swap them with DBA if anyone wants them for an r33.

its an import, you cant use odometer readings to judge anything. Rb25 box should be just about unbreakable in an quick street driven r32 with an rb20.

exactly, if you keep it under boost it means your not gonna be pulling silly revs anyway. by the way why would you want to drive your car hard when the water temp is cool? If you do boost it around when cold, the water temp will come up super fast anyways. As for your 60 degree running temperature due to a better cooling system, what happened to your thermostat?

sorry guys but this is one of the stupidest threads ive read in a while, with everyone giving advice to this guy without even asking what size/type of tyre he is using.

GTRS is your best bet, you'll never do it with a 2530. 2835proS will do it easily at only around 1bar, torque down low wont be quite as good as the GTRS, but you'll have plenty of scope for more power. You might say 250rwkw is more than enough right now, but when you get it, you'll want 260. Then 270. Then you'll be looking at cams and more boost for the magic 300!

yeah i wouldnt think off boost driveability would be affected nearly as much with a 3litre, let alone in an even lighter 32!

whoever told you the GTRS is a mismatch is dreaming! its the latest GT release set to replace and provide more response and top end power than the old GT series!

anyone else?

yep, more about the tune than the power at the wheels, as detonation can blow ring lands even at modest power. Just get a FC so you can keep an eye on knock!

hi SK, well i was told "with cams and more boost you'll see 300rwkw" so i dont know exactly how much boost, but was thinking around 1.5bar. This is with a 2835proS thats currently making ~265rwkw on i believe 1.1bar with stock cams and compression. So basically id love to see the 300rwkw mark if possible!

Im just after peoples experiences after changing head gasket to drop comp ratio so more boost can be run safely. I will be looking at a drop down from 9:1 to 8.6:1 on my rb25, worried about it becoming sluggish off boost, im really happy with how responsive it is now. Can anyone whos dropped to 8.6 tell me how noticeable it is? Also after some results of cam changes, did a search but couldnt find anything. Sydneykid has posted some about the poncams, but id like to hear from someone whos done the HKS256in 8.8mm lift/264ex 9.0mm lift, and the resultant gains there. thanks

Damn HKS34R, nice avatar While its true about programable engine management having the posibility of a cleaner tune, i think the epa's issue would be that anyone using such ECU's have other mods and thats what they dont like, let alone the fact that the ECU is a mod in itself, and dont most of them say somewhere "for race or offroad use"?

hey guys, ive had a 2530 on my car for some time and had the same problem as robos. ive tried everything that had been suggested here and you just cant get the boost to hold. the turbo is too small to support the amount of air required by the rb25 to maintain the boost levels. (so Nacho, there is your answer to Cubes) I also said in a post ages ago that i had also concluded that its too small for an rb25, but then thats all subjective really. The car was damn fast even with boost dropping off, running repeatable 12.5's at 115mph with 2.1 60footers, considering such a small turbo. so saying its too small depends on what you want out of it. For most street applications id still say its a great upgrade, providing stomper torque that hits hard early. in your case robos, 12.5psi is slightly lower than what mine dropped off too, but only by about 0.5psi or so. If you ask me its not worth chasing a little extra boost, as you are obviously wanting a good strong top end, get a larger turbo and do it much easier because the 2530 will never give you a big kick up top! its just too small. Even tho the 2535 may only be mm bigger on visual inspection, see what results people have got, i know there is at least 1 user on here with a nice 240rwkw from a 2535. so the turbo is simply too small for the rb25, hence why whatever boost control method u choose to use, it wont change that fact. throw it on an rb20 however and see a great top end, pulling madly as far as 8000rpm (i have been in an r32 with this setup, and the turbo behaves completely different up top) cheers. PS robos: look into a GT-RS!

hey guys, ive had a 2530 on my car for some time and had the same problem as robos. ive tried everything that had been suggested here and you just cant get the boost to hold. Im no turbo expert so i cant tell you exactly why this happens, yet from what ive heard the turbo is too small to support the amount of air required by the rb25 to maintain the boost levels. I also said in a post ages ago that i had also concluded that its too small for an rb25, but then thats all subjective really. The car was damn fast even with boost dropping off, running repeatable 12.5's at 115mph with 2.1 60footers, considering such a small turbo. so saying its too small depends on what you want out of it. For most street applications id still say its a great upgrade, providing stomper torque that hits hard early. in your case robos, 12.5psi is slightly lower than what mine dropped off too, but only by about 0.5psi or so. If you ask me its not worth chasing a little extra boost, as you are obviously wanting a good strong top end, get a larger turbo and do it much easier because the 2530 will never give you a big kick up top! its just too small. Even tho the 2535 may only be mm bigger on visual inspection, see what results people have got, i know there is at least 1 user on here with a nice 240rwkw from a 2535. cubes, i will answer your question to nacho, the turbo is simply too small for the rb25, hence why whatever boost control method u choose to use, it wont change that fact. throw it on an rb20 however and see a great top end, pulling madly as far as 8000rpm (i have been in an r32 with this setup, and the turbo behaves completely different up top) cheers. PS robos: look into a GT-RS!

NO. Ideally you would want the complete intake tract supercooled so that the air is denser and you can burn more fuel and make more power. Just look at things like the Nitrous Express Intercooler spray kits, as used on 2fast2furious r34, by using super cold gas to really chill the cooler and drop intake temps. There is not an issue of air not flowing because it gets too cold.

NO. Ideally you would want the complete intake tract supercooled so that the air is denser and you can burn more fuel and make more power. Just look at things like the Nitrous Express Intercooler spray kits, as used on 2fast2furious r34, by using super cold gas to really chill the cooler and drop intake temps.

generally speaking, unless your factory BOV is faulty, theres no real reason to change it, other than to get the sound you want. You can pick up cheap 2nd hand BOVs, if i were you id throw on a nice loud atmo BOV, as being new to the turbo scene, you'll love it then once your over the noise and attention, stick a nice sealing plumbback on it. You will still get a bit of sound if you run an exposed pod filter anyways. sounds like your car is just a baby at the moment so i wouldnt be concerned about the stock bov handling big boost, because you wont be running big boost. You will more than likely be running around 1bar with basic exh/intake mods and a bleeder, that will be fine.