SLY33

couple more things SK, when adding a set of poncams, im guessing you want to use new lifters too? and how are original 1994 stock valve springs going to fare, is it wise to throw some new springs in while your there? thanks!

as ben said, also the car may run rich at low boost (if it was tuned for higher boost)and you may get some black smoke but its not harmful.

gotta be happy with that from a stock turbo. Take it out on a chilly night, the difference is awesome so much that when you drive it when its warm it will feel slow

well 250rwkw at 1bar was what he posted after having it tuned at BD4s, only going on what he said. I used to run up to 1.3bar with my 2530, but then when tuning the 2835 my tuner said he didnt want to go over 1.1bar till i did the headgasket. Maybe i could run higher boost with the small turbo coz it would always drop right off at the top end, not sure.

absolutely nothing wrong with 0.7mm gap, although it is suited more to higher boost. 0.8mm is generally recommended, but after my last tune i was told to close them down to 0.7 and it cured a little miss (even tho the plugs are due for replacement!) I wouldnt think a set of splitfires will help. Im still using my original 1993 coil packs (some cracks siliconed) with no problems even running decent boost. Sounds like the old factory ECU coming into play to me. With the hesitation being the timing pulled out. The boost cut could still be in effect even tho you backed off boost due to a spike, espcially if your using a simple bleeder. I had these problems back in the day of the same mods you have.

people expect more than 250rwkw over 1bar, since thizzle set the standard with his 250rwkw at 1bar! but without cams i wouldnt expect much more than 250 even over 1bar. I wouldnt think thered be much more efficient flow left, if that even means anything..

zebbie, on those hot days, be careful of ANY sort of flogging no matter how good fuel youve got in the tank! with ambient temps of 40+ intake temps would be frying! especially if youve got a tuned ecu as they are often tuned closer to the limit than a factory ecu. PLUS while your factory temp guage might be sitting sweet in the middle, i guarantee you youll see water temps over 100deg! even more so if with the a/c pumping!!

SK, what stops us from throwing in a solid setup to replace the hydraulic? As with my old torrie we simply through in a solid profile and solid lifters and ditched the hydraulic stuff!

i also wouldve thought thered be more in it at that boost, bearing in mind i was initially a bit disappointed with 220rwkw from my old 2530, until i realised it sat next to or beat cars with 250+rwkw! while we all like to compare power figures side by side, at the end of the day it is just a figure and its how the car drives that counts.

fresh: are you serious?! cams are my next move too, SK backs the 260 poncams strongly, so thats a good indication. Ive also heard to go HKS 256in and 264 ex. What is the advantage of doing this as opposed to 260in and ex?? Can anyone say which route is better?! Bass, how much do you love your buddy club P1s!? I just put a set on, great rims, bargain price.

fresh: are you serious?! cams and head gasket is my next move too, SK backs the 260 poncams strongly, so thats a good indication. Ive also heard to go HKS 256in and 264 ex. What is the advantage of doing this as opposed to 260in and ex?? Can anyone say which route is better?!

the turbo is all cleaned up ready to go, shaft play is like brand new, gathered by comparing it to my brand new HKS unit. So many of these so called 'low km' turbos look crap and have dings and nicks in the compressor wheel inducer, this one is gorgeous, you will want to put it on the mantle piece, not in ur car ***SOLD***

hi dude, myself and the kit are in adelaide. have had a fair bit of interest but each buyer is short of cash due to xmas! This is not a problem for me, the kit is here complete, who ever shows me the 2100 first its theirs. i will send anywhere at buyers cost. cheers guys.

if theyve genuinely done 9000kms id consider them 95% new

is the sale finalised on these babys?

for those commenting on teins, especially used ones, you cant say "teins are hard" or "teins arent too bad" because there are a whole range of springs and valve rates available, and your never going to know what the original owner in japan built them for. I bought tein HA's and they were drift setup, ROCK hard. whereas ive ridden on other sets of HA's that were completely different. Theres no harm in trying them out and if you dont like them, sell them as mentioned above (as i did), because its funny that no matter how much is said about Jap coil-overs being no good for Aus roads, there is never a shortage of dudes willing to fork out the cash for a used set!!! You never know, you may like them.

Hi guys, Im after a contact number for melbourne based CSC Engineering, who make big brakes used for targa and the like. Ive heard of a case of someone running their setup over the big dollar AP racing kits, and would like to know more. If youve heard anything about CSC stuff, good or bad, please let me know,

at this stage im not keen on selling the dump separate, cheers

interesting posts, i often like to let it sit and idle a few minutes when possible, but i do know that the engine definitly warms up faster when driving it gently compared to sitting idle. It only makes sense that the oil will start protecting best once its in its operating temp, so the method which gets it there fastest is the thing to do. I think i wont be idling it to warm it up anymore, just drive straight off! as far as getting heat into everything else is concerned, i wonder how critical this actually is? as anyone whos been to the strip on a busy day will know that huge waits between runs will have you launching and running a pass on a pretty much cold driveline!

pics from when i bought the turbo

Hi all, I am selling my HKS GT2530 turbo off my R33 GTSt, complete with EVERYTHING you need to bolt it up (possibly bar one fitting, which might need to be made for a water feed) I purchased the turbo alone nearly a year ago, and then separately purchased brand new parts to complete the bolt-on kit. These include a Genuine HKS stainless split dump (not cheap!) and high quality braided lines. Also a 1.2bar actuator (with adjustable rod) which was purchased new. When purchased the turbo was as new condition with less than 5000kms on it, and i have since done only 10,000kms with it. The only reason for sale is the arrival of my new HKS 2835 kit. so you get: turbo, dump, lines, 90 degree compressor outlet elbow, braided lines and fittings, all metal gaskets, wastegate actuator. Basically everything you need. How good is this turbo? The maximum figure i achieved was 227rwkw, made at 1bar. You can run very high boost through the midrange if you want, but on a 2.5litre the boost will drop off just at the top of the rev range. My best track time was a 12.5 at 115mph, with a slow 2.1 60foot, so you can see the potential with a good launch. On an RB20 higher peak power figures may be obtained due the lesser exhaust gas allowing more than 1bar to be sustained over 6-6500rpm. The torque increase makes a stock turbo feel truly weak, this kit is an awesome responsive upgrade, and makes for a very quick street car. Price is $2100 and this is strictly firm. ***Please post questions related to this turbo/kit only please. I dont want to have to explain differences between this and a highflow, or other HKS models, or garret equivalents etc etc! so if you want to know, there are plenty of threads so please have a search. cheers! Allan

its a good thing to load up before dumping and gassing. Your not just loading the clutch but your also taking the slack out of the driveline so that when you dump it the driveline is taught and you dont risk breaking things as much.

apologies, i just re-worked it out, i had it wrong~!

knore your right, but youd be doing 480/370 x 100 to get 129%, meaning 29% more flow than the 370cc injectors. i hope this is right as ive just done this for my 555cc's. 555/370 x100= 148% so im getting ~50% more flow, i set all my injectors settings to 50, from 100. car started and runs fine, tuning getting done monday.

because most people dont know what selector hubs are, but we have all heard of synchros and what their purpose is, therefore if a gear doesnt engage smoothly, then, IS GOTTA BE DA SYNCHROS MATE!!!!