SLY33

good point, i was assuming fmic! 10psi would be more sensible with stock cooler, as there is a huge pressure drop over those things, so much that the turbo can be producing as much as 20psi before the cooler!

$160 is very cheap for an HKS actuator. I got quoted through GCG (they seemed to be the only ppl i could find that had one in stock) $380!!! bugger that!

had a look at the custom orange 200sx at Motor City today. Anyone know its history? Was it painted here etc? It looks tough but they got 31grand on it, go-fast wise all it has is FMIC and exhaust. I think they should fire their car detailer, most of the cars looked quite shabby!

busky i thought they shared the same 4.1ish ratio diffs and similar gear ratios. 165km is pretty fast for 3rd.. maybe yours is special

enrico i doubt your AFM is maxing out at that power. With the boost your running and the power your making it should be absolutely no problem. My stock AFM only maxed out running 18psi boost on a cold night. I could almost get away with running full boost in warmer temps with the stock AFM. Mine with the stock AFM made around 230rwkw without maxing out (unless cold air temp). Seeing as Z32 AFMs arent real cheap, plus if you do change it, you will need a retune on your uni chip, id be sticking with the stockie until it brings you problems.

in regards to the AFR's, on graphs ive seen with the stock AFM, the line is more up and down and messy looking before leveling out in the top end. I just had my car tuned with a Z32 AFM and the AFRs are HEAPS smoother and flatter. Maybe they are easier to get consistent with a Z32 AFM? i dont know. i dont really care either, as long as its safe and the car goes hard is all that matters! Well done, new found power is awesome!

look thru unique cars mag. There is a guy/company that always advertises the kit to make your exhaust throw big flames. It sounds cool, but just imagine having to get your car towed/confiscated/definitly defected, after cops see you do it!

Blitz is spot on. Sir33 you have filter and exhaust, meaning you are no longer running std boost, as due to increasing the flow characteristics you pick up a couple of pounds boost. I had same prob when i first got mine with the same mods as you, but i had a bleed valve. Mine was more a problem when it was very cold, boost spiked, AFM freaks out and the std ECU pulls back the timing. Power FC is your very best friend!!! In my opinion if you want to mod change the ecu coz they run SOOO much better when tuned for your mods, even just filter and exhaust. No flat spots, just smooth power all the way to the redline.

if you have a series one in resonable condition it should cope with 1 bar (14.5psi) Remember if you not flooring it everywhere, its not running 1bar everywhere, but it will be there when you need it. And if its stuffs up, theres a good excuse to highflow it. Seriously tho, i have mates that give em heaps running 1bar and no probs yet.

i had my car done at Edwardstown body repairs, at Melrose Park. Anyone who has seen the car up close can vouch for its quality!! These guys pay particular attention to detail that even i didnt expect. They painted bits under trim and bumpers that you'd never see, so i imagine that if you dont require that level of detail that they might do it cheaper. i believe a full colour change to be somewhere around 6grand? (dont quote me!) And this is show quality. Speak to head honcho Romeo for what he can do, he's a top guy. 8277 8887. Also the painter there has over 31 years of experience.

hi guys as some of you know ive been running the E-boost for a little while now. I had some problems with it overshooting, only when cold though, warm/hot days its fine. I was told i couldnt go wrong with a Blitz Dual SBC Spec R, and that Kier Wilson uses/used one. So i went and got one. review: I liked the E-boost controls, not long is needed to be familiar with all the menus. Mounting it wasnt as easy as the blitz, as the e-boost is a bit large and round, and i didnt want it up on the A-pillar. The blitz was easily double-sided taped under the turbo timer. The blitz controls are even simpler, due to it having less functions i guess, and is simple to use. I loved playing around with the e-boost settings -I'd play with gate pressure, sensitivity, and the boost set. With the e-boost it is possible to get some amazing boost ramp rates! The gate pressure function is unique to the e-boost, and holds the wastegate totally closed until the point you tell it to open, thereby eliminating creep. You can even set the gate pressure higher than the boost set point, so that the boost shoots up and over, then settles on the set point. If the e-boost held boost more consistently i wouldnt have changed it. The blitz i find holds the boost nearly perfectly, and is far more consistent. I am a bit dissappointed that the boost doesnt come on nearly as hard as with the e-boost though. Also i found that with the e-boost, boost response was different in different gears. This can be fine tuned with the sensitivity function however. I am now having wastegate actuator problems, which i think could possibly be responsible for the problems i had with the e-boost. So i will try to fix the problem and if successful, i will have another go at setting up the e-boost, as the speed that it brings the boost up is awesome, and really gives you a kick in the back, abruptly and violently if you wish it too! Each of the boost set points have individual gate pressures too, so you can have different ramp rates for the same peak boost. ie 15psi smooth soft boost, and 15psi hard fast boost. both units are cool, and i paid around the same price for each, give or take a bit. The E-boost, on paper, in my opinion kicks ass, due to the "tunability" of boost control. But in reality i couldt get consistent results. The Blitz was straight forward, dead simple to install, and does what its supposed to do, and is consistent. At the end of the day i would like to get the e-boost running consistently.

Thanks Matt, but no one can beat your engine bay! Thats show quality detail! I had a guy come up to me while cruising rundle tonight "Hey buddy, i seen you cruising around here and there, but tell me, what is FLYLICE? what does it mean?!" haha. on telling him "ahhh.... AHHH!" BTW does anyone here not know what my plates mean?

yep i lost peak power with the better dump pipe. But this is only because boost dropped off. We have pretty much hypothesised that with the new split dump, the combination of more flow through exhaust pipe causing more back pressure in the wastegate split pipe, which prevents the wastegate being able to close enough to hold boost at the top end. Looks like im gonna have to give the HKS actuator a go. I will post the dyno graphs next week.

Having fitted the new HKS split dump to the GT2530, boost drops off at the top end quite badly. It drops from 17.5psi down to about 14psi, killing the top end power figure. Anyone know why!? Simon from Morpowa has tried everything, and thinks it could be a wastegate actuator problem (a standard 7psi wastegate is being used, with a blitz spec R EBC). I can get an HKS 12psi actuator but its not cheap, around $380!! He tried some extra springs on the std actuator which helped a bit, bit didnt solve the problem. On the plus side, torque has risen significantly over the whole range, even with a 10-20kw lower peak power figure! any help appreciated.

hi hip! yeah i parked in the u park just down from bourngiornos. Ive since thrown in the new bilsteins and even lower kings. It looks tuffer now! i saw that 33 in the new ford "citric acid" fluro yellow color. It has Vic plates on it, and the owner chose to give me the stinkeye one saturday night while cruising, maybe coz he didnt have the best skyline He was cruising with another 33, a burgandy one with a carbon bonnet with Vic plates too, which also gave me the stinkeye! haha my cars currently getting tuned with the new dump and z32 AFM, if you want a closer look hip we can meet sometime next week.

as said by viper it depends on the offset. ive seen 18x8's with 265's on a 32, no probs. guard rolling will be a must tho

i ran a mate with same setup as me, but stock turbo, we both ran 1bar, he has rwkw in the 190's, i had an extra person onboard and big heavy 19's and even with the AFM maxing out, i still pulled away reasonably. Cant wait to get it all sorted and retuned with the new dump and Z32 AFM.

RNS11Z, what park did you see my car? your not in adelaide are you? Shane, had the car out for a good run tonight -nearly hit a bloody kangaroo through the hills! -about the injectors, they are at 90%! MRK25T- now i see why you changed, the air was cool tonight, and my AFM was maxing out by late 4k-5krpm, and it wouldnt rev nicely or make good power up top. Gonna have to get me a Z32! 2fardown- are you saying kPa is kilometers per hour?

mrk25t, you said your boost is set low 7psi, high 10-11psi, but on the dyno chart it indicates about 170kPa which is 17psi isnt it? also why did you change to a Z32? i was told that they arent a restriction until you want to run high boost levels or go over 250rwkw?

Dump pipe came in today and is installed. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The car is completely different to drive! Instantly noticable even from when you fire it up, as it seems a bit louder. Boost comes on smooth and hard and zips to the redline. The feeling of running out of puff up top is gone! I have only run just over 1bar so far, as im so busy with xmas stuff i dont have time to set up the e boost again, but it wont be long. It will be back on the dyno asap, and it will be real interesting to see the difference. Lesson learned: stock dump pipe just doesnt work with an HKS GT series turbo! i tried to get away with it to save some dollars, but it just didnt work. Boost couldnt be accurately controlled and wastegate was fully restricted. Shane, ill check next time im out as to what duty cycle they are running.

MRK25T, i have no idea about your AFR question, but it looks similar to my old AFRs, and similar to others ive seen. Maybe its another one for Sydneykid

Brand new HKS split dump pipe ordered, should have it in a couple days. MRK25T, i have no idea about your AFR question, but it looks similar to my old AFRs, and similar to others ive seen. Maybe its another one for Sydneykid

yes guys ive driven it, im holding off the review as im hunting down a good split dump pipe, as the stock one is no good for this turbo! Also we had to change a few boost signal lines to EBC to the correct tubing, as it was all thrown together at last minute- vaccuum hose and not pressure hose was used (that was all that was available in the middle of the night when it was fitted!!) so when it heated up, it swelled, and boost got sent off the dial (over 20psi)- i got a shock when i planted it in third on slightly damp road and nearly lost the back end! the boost lines are now sorted, but the stock dump is so restrictive, apparently the wastegate is larger than the stock, and the stock dump has bugger all room for it, and you can hear/feel it. It comes on to boost real fast, then as the wastegate opens the exhaust note fully changes, the boost flutters a couple of psi, and you can just tell its not flowing properly. As it was overboosting ive only been babying it around, and now im waiting for the dump. But it does spool very early and i think it hits 1.2bar in the 3k range, sorry i cant be too specific as yet as ive just been ironing out the bugs! ill be back when its all done.

a chassis dent? my ****ing son of rajab. VB-VP commodores left the factory with chassis dents! How does this make the car defectable!? maybe your tyres will wear unevenly by a minute amount? how big a dent are we talking here? I have a mate who bought his car in QLD and was using it on the remaining QLD reg in SA, and he got DEFECTED! Its absolutely shocking, im seriously afraid to take my car out after spending every cent i have on it just to be taken off the road. Id rather have it undefected and locked in the garage not using it! The idea by 4door is awesome! whenever you get done, just a trip to the shed to return to std and away you go! N/A you are so right about the give and take. Over hear in Syd i see cars on their bellys all the time, but they dont seem to get done unless they are acting up. Thats how it should be.

i have the dyno sheet but i cant attach it to the post! the file attachment box goes blank after i click ADD FILE, then nothing happens... can anyone help?