SLY33

came across this mag at hong kong airport, over 200pages of pure GTR mods of all the generations and tuning garages, if only there was an english version of this mag! Theres a pretty comprehensive parts catalogue included, many parts reviews with dyno charts and comparisons, seems like everything is covered. I picked up a copy just for the pics Ive never seen such a thick magazine dedicated to one model of car, which just goes to show how wide the gtr's modification versatility is! Im sure if the mag was produced in english ther'd be a lot of international buyers.

33GTR-2000hp ft/lb or whatever. the big boy.

your description of the problem is very general and not specific enough to necessarily indicate a problem. as you dont indicate when the smoke is seen (idle, under load etc?), it could be possible that the smoke your seeing is just a bit of richness added by your tuner for safety?

yes it has me thinking that the bigger one would be better suited to brutal launches. 100bucks for extra piece of mind is worth it for me. out of curiosity has anyone heard of anyone breaking one of these?

was going to ask the same thing. for the extra 100bucks it sounds worth it. by the way, what sort of setup will make 1000 FOOT/POUNDS of torque? let alone 1000Nm? anyone know what sorta torque a T51R will make, seeing as thats about as big as anyones likely to run?

Greenline list a TRUST ACPT CARBON SHAFT, 7.4kg (normal 14.9kg) rated to 14000rpm and 350+km/hr, that looks like the one in Justins pics. (edit; it looks like the one posted by GTR STI, with a sort of ribbed appearance and a resin type colour, whilst justins one looks black and doesnt appear ribbed. can anyone explain why they look different?) If this is the same shaft as your group buy, then count me IN. The best part is that greenline lists it at AUD $3750, or USD $3550, which makes the group buy seem extremely attractive.

whats this about plasma coating being limited to 600hp? surely there wouldnt be a fundamental limit in this newly designed engine for only 600hp?

has anyone come across the corvette communities reaction to this version in relation to the ZR1?

Whilst true in some cases, you would be surprised, even shocked at some of the after hours racing that happens there!

I wouldnt say NEVER run a semi slick on the road. Yes you do need to be careful if the tyres are cold and more so if the roads are cold due to a cold day, but once youve driven a bit the tires do get enough heat in them to perform well, and from there if your driving spirited you reap the benefits of the extra grip. I ran re55's all round and loved them, but i did have one bad understeer event due to an afforementioned cold condition. Of course if your daily driving it then theres not much point, but if you have lots of power and like to go for a good hard drive more than once in a while then they are awesome. As far as stiff sidewalls, noisy, and harsh ride goes, well for me these things are not a concern, how it goes/handles/stops takes priority. Try them once and determine for yourself, just get a feel for how long it takes to warm them up. Take it out on a warm sunny day and a gentle drive on the hot tarmac will heat em up no worries.

Lol, yes i thought your first answer was sufficient my dba4000's cracked, using with Re55 semi's, and with street use only! Dont know the story or if theyve changed anything, but ive since gone OEM rotors, had them slotted and cryo treated and so far have been a treat. Cryo treating seems to be the key!!

Singapore actually! I was in phuket last month scooting around, and i nearly fell off twisting my neck around when a new white GTR drove past, last place id expect to see one!

first time up close to a GTR today

We all like to flex now and again, but time and place for sure. With numerous sightings of this car regularly flexing in traffic, this guy really needs to change his driving style. If he has an accident it will surely end up on the front page as another import/hoon problem.... For the majority of us on here that treasure and care for our rides, guys like this need to chill out so that we can all continue to do so. Good to see its for sale. ps, anyone given him a call yet? lol

More importantly than your clutch concerns, congratulations on your purchase!!! mine is purple too not sure if your aware that multiplate clutches of the non-damper type are horribly on/off in operation, and for street your best off with a sprung centre, or damper type, that makes the on/off transition as good as a nice single plate amongst the better ones. I just purchased an OS giken STR2CD twin plate for my gts, cost about 1700 delivered through greenline, apparently has very light pedal pressure and very easy to use. My GTR has a pretty heavy rebuilt OS twin plate, must be the TS2CD. Its still a damper type, but is quite on off, and makes your leg tired in stop/go traffic situations! End of the day, if you use your car regularly, from my experience its eventually worth spending the $ on making it more driveable or friendly. if its a bit of a pig you may not look forward to driving it as much! My old clunky mechanical diff would put me off driving in the city! cheers

I can confirm that it WONT fit a 2835ProS. You'll have to go custom or source the sweet looking HKS specific dump pipe for it (the one thats included in the full ProS kit, dont know if you can buy it separately)

yes my cusco 2way was like that too, just a dull thud whilst cold, but after some driving, damn nasty shuddering clunks!! I ran RE55's before too, so im sure that made it even worse! will update once the OS superlock is in. Its back ordered till end of the month tho...

what do you guys think of putting some brand new stock OEM subframe bushes in, instead of even pineapples? Aim is to get rid of the harsh clunking from the diff. Has anyone gone from stock to pineapples and noticed whether pineapples make it noticably louder clunk? I put the alloy ones in as i thought theyd be even more effective than pineapples, which they would have to be in terms of reducing subframe movement, but honestly i dont think i couldve picked the difference seat of pants once they were changed, which is why im thinking just put stock ones in.

good work brad. yes if you want to keep it strict then stick with the closest rolling diameter as stock. end of the day your probably not gonna feel a huge difference between the 265 and 275. has anyone driven on 18x10.5s and 285 tyres? thats what im looking to get, running re55s or A048s..

For reference, Just got the OS Giken Superlock Type S quoted from greenline at $1400 inc delivery. (excluding any customs that may apply)

Thanks for the refresh Duncan, 1.5way OS superlock is what i think ill go for. cheers

SLY-dN, how are 2-ways legal? I had my viscous diff shimmed up in an attempt to find a compromise between stock and my fully clunky 2way cusco, but the shimmed stocky came back behaving EXACTLY like the cusco 2-way i had in it before! Anyway, whilst going for inspection they noticed it skipping as the car was manouvered to the pits, and would not clear defect until it was returned stock. As for noisiness, i think mine must be due to the alloy subframe collars. The clunking was so harsh, as someone mentioned, you have to explain to everyone who rides in the car that its "normal", "no its not broken its meant to be like that"! Im looking for a diff now. thinking the OS superlock 1.5way. If its clunky ill throw some new stock rubber subframe bushes in. The idea of changing the bushes was to get rid of axle tramp, but with traction it still tramps anyway even with the alloy collars. Whilst we're here, anyone like to kindly refresh the principle between 1.5 and 2 ways and the pro's cons? thanks

If you have a friendly tune and your engine is generally healthy, your unopened motor should be fine pushing out well into the 260+rwkw's. HKS GT2835proS kit! The GT-RS in my opinion will struggle to put out your aimed power without cams and testing the boost on a stock motor. The 2835 will get you up there at around 1.1bar, and as mentioned if your motor is healthy and your tune is good then it should be fine, especially if its just a street car. price wise, its been too long since i bought mine so make a few calls..

Your list is pretty complete for what you desire- Delete the SAFC, add a clutch and with your stock highflow you should hit your goal nicely, plus still look legal in the engine bay If you want to start slowly, simply add a power FC, cooler, fuel pump and clutch first, the noticeable jump from stock to ~200rwkw will give you plenty of fun for a while, then add the injectors, AFM, and highflow later If you think you might get the mod bug, then my advice would be to look for a clean 33GTR and start from there. As if you get serious with mods on the GTSt your budget will grow to more than the price of a GTR!

I know no details, but i do strongly feel that Ford People of WA has no business here