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SLY33

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Everything posted by SLY33

  1. what causes these things to die? has the turbo in question done loads of work or is it a tune or oil supply issue? I didnt expect to hear about GTRS rebuilds as they are a relatively new model; ie still plenty of many-years-old GT2530's still going hard and strong.
  2. Any word/opinions on these? i heard that they used to be a bit dodgy, but have since improved in material thickness and now are on par with the more expensive stainless steel mani's? price is under a grand. application is for the GTR, other options are a steampipe mani, but at more cost. Car will rarely be used, so im thinking i may see many years out of it before it cracks.(?)
  3. cmon, is this thread a joke or what!? apologies if its genuine, but just sounds like thread starter is taking the piss
  4. HAHA, hi cubes, i knew that would be coming!! i went back to Aus as planned, but the workshop had a drift emergency (had to fix a car that was due to run on the weekend) so he had no time to do my car!! As soon as the GTR is done, ill actually be building an RB26 for the GTS-t, so ive been umming and arring whether to actually bother putting the go fast bits back on the GTS-t, as it will all be coming out eventually anyway (plus im not even there to drive it) another option is if someone wants to buy the ex honed stock mani off me and try it themselves! or wait to see if i get round to putting it back on my car! for now its sitting in the garage, sorry to disappoint!!! but if anything happens, youll be first to know cubes
  5. Hey guys, whats the functional difference between Single hole vs Twin hole injectors? Im looking to make say 800engine HP, and have been advised to get 1000cc's (to cover future HP support i presume) sard offer twin and single hole, im not sure what the HKS offerings are as far as holes are concerned. any advice? or are 800cc's large enough to comfortably make that power? Thanks
  6. Hey Cubes, lol, yes the manifold! As it happens im flying back into Aus on the Sun 25th this month, and the car goes into workshop the very next day. Im only down for a week, so depending on how quick the shop is, i will hopefully get it dynoed by the end of that week. Ill be sure to post up results when its done, hopefully i'll see a bit more than the 281rwkw previously. cheers
  7. Who will be the first to give these babys a go and throw a review down? Any one sussed out prices compared to competitors yet?
  8. good to hear positive results about these "cheap" upgrade brakes. Id like to hear from street users without ABS, if possible! Great to hear a product half the price of competitors performing well, sounds like good bang for buck.
  9. what thickness did you buy, and did you have to lose the viscous fan or did you choose to lose it? I bought my GTS-t PWR rad from morpowa and they matched my delivered price from QLD. Totally happy with it, had it on the track and was perfect. Put the stocky back in after it got defected and noticed temps rose just sitting in traffic. BTW, are these alloy rads regency friendly? I think we swapped mine over just to be safe.
  10. couldnt tell you about the strengths of a gts4 box.. im sure someone will jump in and tell you if its the same as a gtr one anyway. It depends on which way you wanna go, if you can find a 26 that you know is healthy and can just drop it in, i would think 10g would cover everything. But if you want to add some new turbos, injectors and start modding the 26 then you may be looking at more. even some decent second hand upgrade turbo's could fit your bill. Theres a fairly recent thread i started, asking cost of putting a 26 into my gts-t. edit: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...152866&st=0 check out R31Nismoids posts, esp #5 to give you some pricing ideas... But personally i think selling and finding a nice 32GTR would be best idea as at the very least youll have better brakes, seats, and not to mention a legend parked in your driveway!!
  11. ten G is a fair wack of coin my friend! you have some great options as mentioned. Get a 32 GTR would be my pick, or if you want to stick with your car, use the money to put an RB26 in there and almost have a GTR. Best advice from myself who has seen a lot of money lost from upgrading mods i already upgraded, then got bored of: dont waste your money on the rb20 or even a 25, go an RB26 and you'll have a platform that can lazily be a 160rwkw daily to a 300+rwkw street weapon or sleeper. Ive spent a small fortune making my rb25 pretty sweet (which in all fairness it is), but im ready to throw an rb26 in there after much time and money spent. cheers, enjoy your spending!
  12. ive never had a problem with my A/C and lag. As for you non-air con guys, ill gladly take a few camp jokes and continue to sit in comfort on those 30+ days without sweating into my expensively retrimmed leather pews, whilst i have a chuckle at all the guys with the windows down trying to look like they arent hot, obvious to me that if they had a functional air-con, they would use it! Part of the reason why i own a skyline is that it does everything, comfort on hot days included. Getting rid of the aircon on purpose, to me is like ditching the power steering! why would you?
  13. i really like the idea of this thread. So my next question is: what is my engine bay worth!? rebuilt rb25 GTR crank and rods, ACL race series pistons, o-ringed block, stock head with poncams and new valve springs, less than 20,000kms old, stock ex-honed mani, near new full 2835proS HKS turb kit, HKS 555cc injec, new splitfire coils, Z32 AFM and tuned PFC, and the whole lot spotlessly clean and shiny . Good for 280+rwkw. Would parting it out get me much more than selling the lot as a whole, and would it be worth the hassle selling a whole load of items separately?! (bear in mind im not even in the country, lol)
  14. agreed, ive been in rb26 gts-t's, and the tractability due to the linear power delivery is what i like. imo a rb26/30 would be a beast of course, but also a potential burnout machine! Your already sticking the motor into a lighter car, and as nismoid mentions with some nice responsive turbos makes a good setup. i do see the point of the 30 bottom end as rebuild costs are likely to be similar, but dont think i'd do it personally. Also with the 30 i would imagine you would lose some of the rb26's inherent screamer attitude!
  15. i would definitly rebuild it, i wouldnt bother throwing an old motor in and hoping it will be ok. Same goes for the turbos. Are N1 turbo's considered an OEM item as far as the defect police are concerned? In SA ive heard of people having to 'prove' that their turbos are standard by running the numbers and checking they are factory nissan items. I think they may even be picky about garret replacements! very gay. but im sure there is a turbo option they will approve that will still give me 300+rwkw. would be a very cool thing to do. Bloody hell these cars... i havent even finished the GTR and im thinking about spending MORE money on the GTS-t, a project that was supposedly "finished". They are NEVER finished are they guys..!
  16. thats not bad.. are GTR front cuts plentiful? thanks Nismoid
  17. Presuming i have a complete rb26dett turbo's n all, can anyone give me a "rough" estimate of cost in putting it in a GTS-t? Not including supports such as brake upgrade and engine supports (cooler, fuel, clutch etc) just having the motor running in the car. Anyone here personally done this? My main reasons for wanting to do so is that i can get the car pretty much legally registered with around the same power i have now on stock turbos, plus i like the twin turbo power delivery in a RWD car, plus an rb26 is just cooler cheers. i realise this is not a cost effective exercise.
  18. thanks for all the links and suggestions guys, very helpful. Anyone know what the TD05/06H twin turbo kit is rated to? That is what the cooler ronin linked is a suggested use for. I can get that cooler for ~2700 from greenline delivered and including tax. I will check out that apexi cooler..
  19. it would definitly be more than enough, but is probably double the price of most of the other options!
  20. Thanks for the replies. I spoke to ARE and he told me that a really thick core will give me water temp issues if i leave my aircon condensor fitted. He recommended the 600x300x109 core as mentioned above. He wasnt 100% sure though, saying it depends on my turbo and how hard it will be pushed, eg a 1000hp turbo making a relaxed 800hp may be fine, vs a 700hp turbo trying to squeeze 800hp may see problems. He said that core they rate at 750HP(engine) but if you are pushing a turbo to make that power then intake temps could be an issue. But his argument was that if i went thicker, then water temp could be an issue. Seeing as im looking at 800engine horse at the near limits or the turbo, i would prefer to get a bit more margin of safety in. In regards to trying my current cooler and seeing if its sufficient, firstly, it is now fitted to my gtst and secondly, ive just spent a small fortune on building this motor, and its going to be run in and then pushed to see what it will make on an engine dyno before it goes in the car, so we want to make sure we get the support systems right the first time. I have a few more options which is good. Currently looking into a turbonetics core. The turbo im using is from turbonetics, so if i can find a tried and tested core for the turbo in question that will make things much easier.
  21. Looks clean Munro! any details as to the setup? Orange one as per sig, GTR hoping to see 460+rwkw when she hits the road.
  22. 73mmx2, so it would be 146mm wide once you weld the two cores together. wsln33, the ARE certainly sounds good considering the price! But at those dimensions isnt it a bit marginal? The one you mentioned is basically the same size as my HKS type R cooler. Wouldnt the much thicker cores such as plazmaman/trust at ~160mm+wide be better for dealing with heat soak etc? I am still waiting on a reply from ARE. I have chatted to plazmaman and he seems very dedicated to producing the best quality coolers on the market, also it was good to speak to the man that would actually be building the cooler himself and get his insights directly. Will wait and see what ARE has to offer.
  23. Turbo is rated up to 850HP, will be looking at making around 800HP on 33GTR, and need some intercooler options. The big Trust R-SPL from greenline delivered inc taxes is about $3500, only thing is that apparently its not available in single entry, which i need. Also its not cheap anyway. So im left with a couple of choices and wondering what else is available as a bolt on? 1) Plazmaman can make me up a custom one, not sure of exact dimensions but he described it as "6.5inch thick USA core, flows 1400HP" and can do it for $2600. I think core and end tanks only. 2) my engine builder can take two 600x300x73 PWR cores (each flow 550-600hp) and weld them together and have the cooler complete for under $2500. I like the idea of plazmaman as ive heard about top quality work and finish, anyone else had experience with him or of the cores he uses? If the PWR option will work that will be the most convenient as my engine builder can fit it all up to the car himself (plazmaman isnt in my state). Also the cheapest option. I have the HKS typeR, rated to ~700HP so its a tad small for the new setup. Anyone know what the HKS type GT is rated to? Opinions? Thanks
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