xRHETTx

I use the +ve from the cigi lighter for my gauge, no problem. For the -ve i used the wire at the cig lighter as well, im not a fan of grounding everything to different bits of metal, its easier just to solder it to a wire. Maybe use a multimeter to check what voltage the guage is getting.

When i hook up with some billionaire heiress, I'll get her to shout you Jarred

Ive heard that it is some sort of sensor for the seatbelts that is either removed during compliance or is only used on airbag-equipped cars. But thats all heresay.

Ive got them under my seats in my r32 gtst. They seem to be cables that plug into nothing.

Thats cool, Im just saying that there are 2 options with insurance - agreed or market value. Agreed value is just what you and the insurance co. has agreed is an acceptable value. Market value is whatever they reckon the market value is for you car. Neither of them depend on how much you paid for them, and you will never be asked to prove how much it is worth.

Isnt more heat produced when your car is running lean? If the mechanic wrecked ur cat and then removed it, i would be asking for it to be replaced free of charge. Especially if they didnt ask you first.

I ran my r32 gtst at the SAU-Vic dyno day and got 128.3kW which is 172 hp. It is completely stock (power wise) except for pod filter and cat back exhaust.

At a guess I'd say the earth/negative wiring is a bit dodgy. Where did you run the power off? Cigarette lighter?

How do they know/care if you got a good deal when you bought ur car? The agreed value on ur insurance is a value that ur insurance company and you are happy to insure the car for, it doesnt matter what price you actually bought it for. The higher you push the agreed value, the higher your premiums are. On the other hand, if you lie to Vicroads in order to pay less stamp duty, and get busted, you will be in trouble...

Hey as I said when i bought tix at the dyno day, im going to sunny Aspen, USA for 4 months ... so wont be here when I win the window tinting. Phone wont be working either so hold on to it for me. Thanks in advance, Rhett B)

Looks like what Bass Junky is trying to do for r34...

Now all you need to do is to get rid of that fugly wang... IMHO And get some rb74 brake pads for the front .. love the DUST!

Your seating position shouldn't be dependant on where the pedals sit, it should be based on the distance where you can put your foot on the floor beneath the pedals and still have your leg bent a bit. But that said, you can adjust the clutch position to make it more similar to the rest of the pedals. The reason why some of them have bits that come out near the brake is to make "heel and toeing" easier.

They guy in SA will get money back for his rego when he hands the plates in, you can negotiate that into the price. But getting a RWC yourself is a bit daunting, when its a car you have already paid for and is probably modified (ie. wont pass rwc). I was going to do this with a car from NSW, but in the end for me getting the RWC with the car was more important.

Gotta love having an exam that goes from 2.30pm on melbourne cup day. Got out at 5pm and was already other the whole cup deal... there just horses. Maybe they should shoot makybe diva now like mummify, and put her in the museum next to phar lap...

Firstly, hi to all in NA land, this is my first ever time in this section of the forums (got sucked in by the thread title). Before you give up on the 2 AFM idea (and I think its an awesome idea), ditch the SAFC and get a Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster (DFA). It will definately be able to do what you want, in fact it even mentions in the Performance Electronics for Cars book (from Jaycar) that they used it to fit 2 AFMs to a maxima or something. Basically, as long as you can solder and follow instructions, for about $140, (DFA kit, handcontroller kit and cable) you get a digital AFR adjuster that works better than the SAFC. How many load points does an SAFC have? The DFA has 128 not 8 or whatever... Think about it...

And if 19s to fit, you will be spending a fortune on tyres, as the sidewall height will have to be tiny.

How abouts buying them on condition that they fit? or just fitting them to see how they go? as long as you get the offset ok, they will fit in the guards (not sure about 19s though, not even 18s are recommended for r32 gts) Then the only trial and error part is whether the hit the brakes or not.

This is a wild guess but maybe you can use the Rb26 power fc, and just use 2 AFMS? GTR ones or use a DFA (coz i know you love them Shan) to modify the output of a single AFM to suit whatever the PFC needs?

DBA 4000 series slotted rotors are definately directional for all cars. When you say non-directional, does that mean the slots go straight out from the centre of the disc? Because if they are at an angle, they are directional. The "sharp pointy end" of the slots (at the centre) should point in the direction the wheel spins, so that the slots can release any gasses as they spin.

Installed my DFA on the weekend, learned an important lesson in life - never do anything complicated when you are running late... First i cut the wrong wires at the ECU (read the diagram backwards!). The car didnt like running having an injector signal or something going through the DFA... I was in a rush as i was going to the SAU-Vic dyno day we had on sat, and i wanted the DFA in so i could maybe get them to do some tuning. On the dyno the car was running lean, would have made about 135kW, only mods cat back and pod filter. I bypassed the DFA and Made 128.3kW, with the ratios much better. It turns out i stuffed the calibration up, had it all good, then when you are meant to set vr2 for 0V input, it was already on 0V but i still turned it a little... therefore stuffing the voltage difference up. And because i was in a rush i didnt check it... The AFR trace is quite interesting, for the two runs it is almost identical, just with one trace shifted up a ratio or so. The ratios without the DFA ended up pretty good, i guess ill wait until i increase the boost to get it tuned. Rhett

Reasons stock BOV are good: They work. If you want sound, install a pod filter and they make the noise almost as loud as an atmo one. Cost nothing. Take no time to install. Are not defectable. Reasons stock BOV are bad: Not loud enough for your taste... I dont think your argument is valid, noone ever upgrades their floor mats. why? because they do their job well. Maybe if you made them out of carbon fibre you would have a little bit of weight saving?

Thansk Shan, Also, not all Type-Ms have all the options, my Type-M (checked in FAST) doesnt have the aero kit, but it has the 4pot brakes, upgrade interior, climate control, rear window wiper (was this an option?). Almost every r32 i have seen has red and white GT badges. Maybe series 1 had the silver ones, ive never really seen many 89 imports... But Series 2 gtst definately had red and white GT badges. Non-turbo had blue and white, along with the turbo gts4...

For every 10 r32 gtst you are going to see, you might see on gts4. So your choice will probably be quite limited. Not sure how old you are but if you are 18-20 keep $3000 spare for insurance etc, if you are 21 or over its a fair bit better... might get full comp down to under a grand. And you can bet that any car that you are looking at will have more than 100 000kms. (you would have to admit you are looking at the lower end of the price range) And if its less than this, IT HAS BEEN WOUND BACK. A genuine low km great condition r32 gts4 will be worth $15k easy, not $10-12k. Good luck, a gts4 would be an awesome car.

You can fix this, it is sometimes done during the compliance process. Have a look at the wiring, im not sure but its probably just a wire thats been cut.