xRHETTx

my RS4-S runs a R34 GTT power fc just fine (or is it the other way around?) although you need to fix the engine check light though with a resistor. Not sure if this means that a standard ecu would do it though.

Hey guys, I'm moving house soon and am trying to make some space. I'm looking to offload my entire collection of High Performance Imports magazines. They are all in very good condition, and come in a box for easy transport. The collection includes every issue from issue 20 through to issue 102, excluding 40, 43, 45, 81, 87 and 93. Not sure what happened to those ones. It also includes the highly collectable "Supra and Soarer Special Edition #1." There are 77 magazines in total. I will also throw in another 10 assorted car magazines including some Zoom, Wheels and a Japanese Option 2 magazine from Feb 2007. I'm looking for $80 or near offer, pickup only from North Melbourne 3051 after work hours. Thats less than $1 a mag! Not willing to seperate. PM me or post in here, cheers, Rhett

Hey guys, I'm moving house soon and am trying to make some space. I'm looking to offload my entire collection of High Performance Imports magazines. They are all in very good condition, and come in a box for easy transport. The collection includes every issue from issue 20 through to issue 102, excluding 40, 43, 45, 81, 87 and 93. Not sure what happened to those ones. It also includes the highly collectable "Supra and Soarer Special Edition #1." There are 77 magazines in total. I will also throw in another 10 assorted car magazines including some Zoom, Wheels and a Japanese Option 2 magazine from Feb 2007. I'm looking for $80 or near offer, pickup only from North Melbourne 3051 after work hours. Thats less than $1 a mag! Not willing to seperate. PM me or post in here, cheers, Rhett

I'll take the greddy oil temp/pressure adapter if Munkyboy pulls out. Cheers, Rhett

A bit of a thread hyjack, but I just discovered tonight that 2 of my rear wheels studs have snapped and another is threaded, all on my left rear wheel. My car runs cheap crappy spacers on the rear wheels, the previous owner put them there to push the wheels out into the guards a bit more. They are only about 10mm thick though. The spacers dont have any hub centering lip or anything. So I've done a bit of reading on snapping wheel studs and spacers etc, and it seems to be very common. I think my cheap crap spacers meant the wheels were not locating centrally on the conical wheel hub bit. This is also the part where all the weight of the car is meant to be taken, the wheel studs are only meant to be there to hold the wheel on. It seems because of the spacers ,the studs were taking the weight of the car and therefore snapped. This seems to also be common with cheap multifit wheels, where the central hole doesnt line up with the wheel hub 'cone' to form a tight fit when the wheel is bolted up. So once I replace all my broken/threaded wheel studs tomorrow, I will be removing the spacers and using them as frisbees. cheers, Rhett

I noticed this when I broke the HICAS unit off the rear subframe. I'd take it to a suspension place and get them to have a good look over all the rear bits and pieces.

http://www.roofcarriersystems.com.au/ ? Everywhere sells Thule products. Depends what suburb you are in and how many phone calls you want to make to save a few dollars.

thanks for everyone's help... Fortunately Chasers in West Melbourne did a great job and managed to repair the subframe on the car, saving me a whole heap of money and effort. Car drives so much better now. Will still be fitting the new bilsteins and whiteline bushes when I get a chance though. :-)

I installed an R32 GTR fuel pump in my old gtst. If you turn your key to start, do you hear the pump priming for a few seconds then switching off? If you can hear it is prob a gtr pump. I could never hear my gtst pump prime. You definitly have to modify a gtr pump to fit. I think I used the inlet sock thing from the gtst pump, then had to plastic weld it a bit as it faced the wrong way?

So the subframe is RS4-S specific? Not even the same as RS260 or R33 GTR? So I'm in for a world of pain unless i can get it repaired. Thanks for your help.

Hi Duncan, I dont think it is a crack. If you look at the first pic I posted in the original post, I think the dark area is just the shadow from the flash over the folded bit on the subframe. but it'll all be a bit clearer on wed when the car is on the hoist. its a bit dirty under there but I'm pretty confident its not rusty - the car is yellow so maybe it just the colour reflecting on the metal etc... i think maybe I'm being a bit optimistic.

Hi Duncan, I dont think it is a crack. If you look at the first pic I posted in the original post, I think the dark area is just the shadow from the flash over the folded bit on the subframe. but it'll all be a bit clearer on wed when the car is on the hoist. its a bit dirty under there but I'm pretty confident its not rusty - the car is yellow so maybe it just the colour reflecting on the metal etc... i think maybe I'm being a bit optimistic.

okay so this is my rear subframe, you can see where the hicas bolt has pulled the nut through the subframe metal, and is now sitting at say 30 degrees rotated from where its meant to be. man it was hard fitting my head under there. you can see the other bolt in the background, which is rotated as well, but not pulled all the way through (yet).

ok drum roll.... chassis number is WGNC34127902 it would be a great help if you could fast this for me, and cross reference the subframe part no...

Yeah thats what I did. One bolt has fully ripped out, pulling the nut welded on the other side of the subframe through the metal. the other side almost ripped out. Taking it to a proper workshop on Wed to get it checked out, over the phone they said it was possible but wanted to look at it on the hoist before definitely saying yes. Ben - I'll post up the chassis no when I get home from work tonight, it would be great if someone can fast it. I've heard it may be the same as the S14 subframe (from the Stagea part number thread). Itd be nice if its the same as R33 GTR though, prob more around the place. Lachlan - yeah I noticed how low the hicas unit sits compared to skylines. seems ridiculous to have a little electric motor sitting facing downwards as the lowest part of the underside of the car.

Whilst I'm fixing my RS4-S subframe (where I ripped the hicas system out on a cattle grate), would it be worth fitting the Whiteline subframe bushes? Do you get any advantage if you are not trying to pre-load it in a particular way for drift etc?

Thanks for your comments, yeah maybe I should get a hicas lock bar.. I'll call a few places and see if I can get someone to weld it up where it was ripped the bolts through and install a lock bar at the same time. definitely still going to get all the suspension bits installed, just have to fix this first, then get the suspension sorted, then get new tyres. expensive week.

My Series 2 RS4-S. Had it a few months now, got it off another SAU member.

Hey all, Well after being very disappointed with the handling of my RS4-S stagea for a while, I took it into a workshop to have the suspension looked at. It felt like it was getting looser and looser in the rear, wobbling around quite a bit. They diagnosed the problem being worn/soft rear shocks, plus a few worn bushes. It took a while to order in the shocks (Bilsteins from SydneyKid) and bushes from Whiteline. I then broke the cardinal rule of car ownership, and took my car to a workshop on my birthday... Got a phone call 30 mins later from the workshop, they had the car up on the hoist and noticed that the hicas system was hanging loose. I went down there and they were right, one of the two bolts holding it on had ripped through the subframe, and the other one was bent and starting to break. You could wobble it around and watch the rear wheels wobble in and out. My rear Federal 595SS tyres are completely stuffed now too, after only 1000 kms. I've borrowed this pic from the hicas fitting thread, but the bolt in the middle-right is the one thats ripped out. This "may" have happened when I went to my friends wedding at a farm and "may" have bottomed out going very slowly over a cattle grate. The suspension place said they didnt do fabrication/welding work so could only buy a new subframe and replace the whole thing. The only one they could find was in WA (I'm in Melbourne) and was going to cost about $1500 fitted plus whatever postage to get it here. So this brings me to my three questions: 1. Does anyone know if the Series 2 RS4-S subframe is the same as any other Nissan? I guess its the same as the RS260, is it the same as the R33 GTR as well? Is it the same as the auto Stageas (even though they dont have Hicas?) 2. Anyone have one in Melbourne? 3. Should I get it repaired instead of replacing it? It would really only be welding on 2 little plates with bolt holes so the hicas bar could mount back on. and I guess anyone know anywhere who would do it for me? I'm a bit annoyed now because I think I may not have needed the new shocks after all Cheers, Rhett

manuals dont have the syncro button

I had a r34 sidemount on my r32 gtst and it worked great, although I only had approx 165rwkW I didnt want to go to the hassle of cutting the front bar etc and risking getting canaried. But they are not a direct fit (like they are in an r33 gtst). You will need to get the outlet moved to face the other way. I think it cost me about $180 for the modification and for it to be fitted. RECustoms down here in Melbourne did it, and I know they have done a few others. I guess if you were looking to take it to the track etc you're better off going full FMIC. I didnt notice any heat soak with (relatively) normal street driving. Maybe a water spray kit would help.

the stock boost guage is in units of x100 mmHg and works perfectly well. look the conversion factor up if you arent comfortable with the units. but how accurate are your eyes? There are only 4 marked lines between 0 and +7, so there is no way you'll have the accuracy you need to tune a boost controller. One clue - if you hit +7 you've gone too far and will have no turbo wheel left.

yey both items now sold - mods please delete thanks

+ dual sunroofs + manual gearbox (on mine) + massively overdesigned clock on dash - broken rear shocks (also on mine)

Dayz front bar available? Price? Does anyone know if they fit series 1 and 2? Someone should make a mould so we can all have dayz frontbar goodness...