xRHETTx

I would never buy a car that I personally have not test driven, and I wouldnt fork over $500 for a deposit. I test drove 4 R32s before i bought mine, it was never a problem, it helped being off my P's though. A few of the sellers said that they wouldnt let me drive if i was still on my P's. And i wouldnt be happy with the seller driving the car and me just going along for the ride. They know their cars weaknesses and will try to hide them. Also i doubt they would do things like changing from 5th to 2nd at 80km/h etc, that quickly show up any problems with the gearbox/synchros etc. Maybe if it was $50, as an assurance they werent going to spin the wheels excessively etc. If they are on their P's, maybe try asking them if a parent could test drive it for them?

I didnt know Jabba the Hut had triplets... Its a pretty smart market ploy, something a bit different to grab ur attention.

Hey my car has the same issue, never thought of it as a problem though, just a little quirk. Maybe ill get a bigger battery next time. Thanks for going to the effort of doing the research.

Found an online calculator, it gets obtains values pretty close to what ur estimating SK. http://www.proshocks.com/calcs/coilsprate.htm Its from the website below, it has some good stuff on it... http://www.martindalecenter.com/Calculator...rs1_3_Auto.html Im going to measure my shocks tomorrow, their Trust coilovers, so no doubt the are going to be pretty stiff. Cant find any info about them on the internet, I dont think Trust make suspension anymore. Rhett

Ive heard that early ford falcons (like EA etc) are the same size, stud pattern and offset as r33 skylines, but i cant be sure if its true or not.

Photoshop. Then buy some Laser-printable labels from Officeworks. Print and stick.

What is a coilover anyway? Is it just a matched spring and damper or is it something special/something else?

How would you make sure 19% extra air went in? Its a clever idea but when you could fix the problem by fitting either a Jaycar DFA ($120) or SAFC ($350) and getting a dyno tune ($100), it wouldnt be worth stuffing around with a solution that doesnt really fix the problem.

That wouldnt be street legal anywhere. Damn it sold for $ 20k US, i was just about to bid!

Go the Chaser, better than the dime-a-dozen Skyline.

Email sent RE: matt grey knob

Please do a search in future before you ask a question, this has been covered at least 3 times this week already! There is also no such thing as a r32 spec-M or M-spec, it is called a Type-M. That will help with your search. Also, look for a thread with FAST in the title, if you supply ur vin number someone will look up ur exact car for its basic details. Rhett

Maybe $800? or a $1000, it depends i guess on the condition (they look pretty good). A big plus is that you have all 4 centrecaps. If they are the correct offset/pcb/no. of holes etc for a skyline im sure youll be able to sell them here.

They are great prices, where did you get them from? Whats a H/H? My clutch kit was $375 as I had a father of a friend who knows someone who worked a Exedy once or something. Best price i could get apart from that was about $450.

Oil pressure: Sender failure Like all normal vehicles, good oil pressure is essential. The sender itself is located by the oil filter on the left hand side of the block. The following figures are the workshop manual specification for oil pressure on the RB20DET... 1kg/cm2 @ 600 rpm 3kg/cm2 @ 2000 rpm 4kg/cm2 @ 6000 rpm My own car has a oil pressure gauge that doesn't behave due to a fault somewhere, so I had a check done by running a remote gauge which gave the correct numbers... Whew! Update: the oil pressure switch replaced. Thats from the The Sky is the Limit skyline book thats floating around www.skylinesdownunder.com and sau somewhere

Yeah, ive done one and quite a few SAU-Vic people have done them over the years, as Kev has done a few group buy sort of things with discounted prices. It was a great day, id highly recommended it to anyone, no matter if you have just got ur license or have had it for ages.

Hey if anyones interested i had my exedy HD clutch installed today. It feels and works great, took a little while to get used to but i couldnt be happier. The install cost me $250 including machining of the flywheel. Looking at the standard clutch compared with the exedy HD, the springs on the friction plate are much smaller and the diaphram finger things are not as strong or well built. My std clutch was worn down to the rivets on one side. PS i think there is one for sale in the for sale thread at the moment for $400

OK i dont know any of the top of my head, but if anyone wants to check where their paticular set of tyres were made click on the link below and search for the manufacturers code which is on the tyre sidewall: http://www.tireaccidents.com/tire_plant_codes.htm

You can do it this way, but i wouldn't use horsepower, i'd stay in metric units to make it easier. Torque is also a power multiplied by an angular velocity, so if you look on a dyno graph the power should be simply the torque multiplied by the rpm times some conversion factor based on the gear the car is in and the radius of the cars wheels.

Maybe if you can have someone else look at it? You know what they say about fresh eyes etc.. well i cant really remember but often if youve looked at something a million times you just miss things. Maybe have another look at your handcontroller? If your pretty sure the DFA is right, perhaps your handcontroller is the problem? Maybe use someone elses handcontroller and see if it works.

Then just get a big, heavy stick. Seriously, decide what you want, then do it. With $20k to spend on a car and mods, youll be able to kill him. My opinion, to really piss him off, get an R31 GTSX import (still eligable under the now 16 year rule) with an engine upgrade (either rb25 or rb26).

Depending on how long ago it was complied, maybe take it back and demand they fix it?

They are really not that hard to make, as long as you are careful and check everything with the diagram etc. That said, it is easy to stuff it up, especially the soldering, its quite fiddely. Go through all the solder joints with a multimeter checking for continuity. Anything on the same metal bit on the PCB should be joined together. I found one of my early solders didnt work (luckily i improved as i went along.)

Hey you should take the whole electronic kit building game one step further and buy a AFR meter kit from that techedge place that was mentioned in another post.... $200 for the kit and $80 for the sensor and you can tune it yourself as many times as you like... Im considering doing this, depends on how nice the taxman is going to be this year. Ive got a feeling he is going to ream me though..

Go the Hankook Ventus Sport K104 235x40x17 at $175 a tyre. Theyre top quality, have been chosen as OEM supplier for many big car companies etc. I dont believe for a second any of the crap quality talk about tyres from Asia. Most companies make their tyres is asia, simply because its cheaper. The days when china/taiwan/etc being synonomous with crap quality are long over. The vast majority of companies have strict quality control proceedures, most are ISO9001 certified.