xRHETTx

Post the vin in the FAST thread, they will be able to help you out.

Torque (Newton-metres) = Force (metres) x radius (metres) So that should be correct...

Hey looks like noone ended up going. Maybe next week. A friend of mine went last week and said there was a fair police presence in the street afterwards. hmmm

Even the inter-? Pretty uncomfortable in a skyline...

Im getting an exedy HD clutch put in tomorrow, ill let u you know how it goes. Part no NSK7056HD. Try ABS, they gave me a pretty good price for the clutch, but i ended up getting one at cost price through a friend of a friend.. My car is pretty stock though, probably 130kW at the wheels, so the power comparison wont be that suitable.

Thats because you are only running 7psi. 7 on the stock gauge is about 14 psi. Only running 7 psi with your aftermarket ecu, front mount and exhaust is significantly holding your cars power back. You may even be out of the turbo's peak efficiency zone. Maybe increase the boost by a few psi? Then you should be putting out 170kW easy with a decent tune.

Bought 2 years ago, Late 92 white r32 gtst type M, manual, 77k kms, great condition, with half a year rego and warranty. Upgrade interior, cat back exhaust, SSR wheels, Trust coil overs, aftermarket swaybars and tie rods thingys, sparco wheel, turbo timer, speed meter, pod filter, strut brace... $16500 bargain at the time, between the end of SEVS and the start of RAWS, and when R32s werent quite 15 years old yet.

The head unit will have 1 constant 12v power wire (for keeping ur radio settings and stuff) and 1 ignition on 12v wire (for running). There are many wires you could use, just use a multimeter to find one that turns on with the ignition. I think the cigarette lighter uses one...

Just in case you didnt know, bos importing is BATMBL from these forums, and the above exhaust is the one he sells on these forums...

Im pretty sure the recommended oil pressures are in the engine manual? When the car is cold it should read high at about 4 or so, but as the car heats up (and the oil heats up too and becomes less viscous) the pressure should drop again. About 1 at idle, 2 at 1000rpm, 4 at 4000 rpm is normal i think?

Mine are 235s on 9" wide rims, i wouldnt call that extreme. The guy at the tyre place didnt say anything about it, they are like that to provide a bit more clearance under my guards.

It looks great - better go and put an ugly car bra on it now...

Make sure you get them from a place that is a preffered supplier of Hankooks. There is a list on their website. There is a massive price difference.

Yeah they are more rare, but are a lot more common now due to the 15 year rule. Back when compliance was $3000 for r32 gtst's, there probably wasnt much point in bringing in non-type-m r32s.

I just bought a clutch kit for my r32 gtst - its a daiken/exeedy NSK7056HD The clutch plate is 240mm in diameter... What clutch did you get?

The Type-M bodykit is an option... Mine came with normal front bar, no sideskirts or rear pods and its definately a type-m

Ive been looking for something like this... $200 for a kit + a bit extra for a sensor sounds like a good investment if it means you can do a fair bit of tuning yourself. How much do the sensors go for?

Maybe get the VIN and post it in the FAST thread? They'll be able to tell you if its type-M or not.

Get the silver one. The km's arent to bad for such an old car. Silver looks awesome, the black one will just piss you by not being a Type-M when everyone elses is a type-m. $2000 buys a fair bit of cleaning up, and i dare say you are getting it for damn cheap anyway. ($7-10k?) Thats almost half the price i paid for my r32 2 years ago...

Manual. I think i'd fall asleep if i had to drive an auto. There just crap, full stop. They are for towing and hardcore drag racing, and double amputees. Autos better for city driving? Nah, you guys are just slack. I love changing gears.

Is the DFA the one where one of the links is shown is the incorrect position in the photo/on the PCB? Maybe it the IEBC, i made them at the same time and cant remember. How do you tell? Go through with a multimeter and test every solder and link, and triple check everything else... good luck.

The best place to run the boost guage line from is the line that runs the standard boost guage. It is located in the top drivers side corner of the engine bay. You will see a hose that runs from a little box on the firewall to the rear of the inlet manifold.

Boo yaaa... told you I was right..

Seriously man i dont mean to be rude but try the search button, this gets asked every two weeks. There are differing opinions about whether the GTR bar will fit on a gtst... I have personally seen 2 cars that it has been done to and they both looked pretty good. The bar is a bit wider (to suit the GTR guards) but as it is plastic (compared to most aftermarket bars that are fibreglass) it will bend on. It overhands by maybe 5mm into the wheel arches. Some people would not be happy with this, but i think the advantages that come with having a plastic front bar override this problem. One of the guys that works at Ice performance in Morabbin has an r32 with a genuine gtr front bar on it. Maybe give them a call and ask if you can have a look?

Id be up for a dyno run, but only if we get a printout with AF ratios and the power in kW. None of this hp or ps bullshit. Need the AF rations so i can do a bit of a tune with the Jaycar DFA.