xRHETTx

No reason to downgrade to a r33 or r34.... thats my opinion. hehe

There are a few other little differences, but the easiest to check for and most reliable is just looking at the front brakes... If they look big with 2 round bits it is a type m, if they are small, its not. Personally, i have never seen a non-type m R32 in Australia, but this might have changed with the amount of 89 cars that are in the country now. With SEVS it wouldnt have been worth bringing them in. Options such as sunroofs, upgraded interior and even the "type-m" front bar are not reliable ways of telling if its a type m. The type m front bar is an option on both the non type-m and the type-m models. My type m has the upgraded interior (gtr-like cloth), driving lights, rear wiper, big brakes, but doesnt have the type-m front bar. (it does have a crome grill insert though)

Me and a friend are in for Wed night at 7.50 or 9.40pm.

What would happen if I plumbed my BOV into my exhaust turbine housing, and used a AFM to compensate for the air not flowing into the engine (stopping the rich spike)? This way the compressor can freely spool when the throttle is closed, and the turbine can spool too. Wouldnt this be the best way to stop the turbo from slowing down between throttle loadings? Would this be some type of crude anti-lag device, or just blow up? ;-)

Cant really understand what your asking for, but the type M does have 4 pot front and 2 pot rear brakes, but they arent the same as the GTR ones. The type m does not come with GTR wheels or steering wheel.

Sorry but IMHO i think your statement is not quite correct. Since the "reverted" air goes out via the AFM (or just slows the air coming in through the AFM), emissions are not affected, as the engine is reading the correct amount of air flow. That is, no "extra" air is being lost due to the atmo BOV. This leads on to another idea of mine... Could you make an amto BOV legal/work better by having an AFM measuring air coming out of the BOV? Then subtract the voltage of the BOV AFM from the air inlet AFM. The ECU could then use this to work out everything. No more stalling etc when coming to a stop, and better fuel economy... or am I just dreaming?

I wonder how hard it is to become a VASS signatory? Ill be an engineer next year and $600 for a few hours work sounds pretty good...

http://www.chevcarclubvic.org.au/technical...ist7Mar2005.pdf theres a list...

Personally i cant see how an aftermarket BOV could be any better than the stock one? Maybe with increased boost the standard spring pressure could be too close to the pressure in the inlet piping and therefore some leak could occur? Increasing the stiffness of the stock spring would be the easiest way to overcome this, and would be a hell of a lot cheaper to do than buying an aftermarket one. On the BOV vs. no BOV argument, if the compressor blade is slowed or even starts spinning in the wrong direction, this would create a massive restriction in the turbine, reducing air flow out of the engine and therefore performance would be decreased. Would it be possible to re-route the BOV air directly into the turbine? Would this act like some type of anti-lag device? Or is the pressure in the turbine more than that in the inlet piping when the throttle is closed?

I left my car in the carport for 10 days when i was in queensland and it rewarded me by not starting when i got back. Damn alarm had flattened the battery in that short a time.

My white r32 paint code is 326, its a pretty common colour.

Yeah next week would be better...

Is there a pic of the finished product we can have a look at? Thanks.

Ill come along if its not tonight, prefer 7:45 or 9:30

Mines bolted on near the passengers left leg. The seat can still be adjusted all the way and it doesnt get in the way of the passenger getting in and out. And easy to fit there, no making or adjusting the brakcet that came with the extinguisher.

Im betting they were all 15 year + cars though.... Now that that scheme has finished, there will be no more r32 gtst and hardly any r32 gtrs coming in, it wont be worth it. (No mods allowed, $4k compliance) Theres way too many r33 gtst around, series 1 cars are worth about the same as r32 gtst. People shouldnt expect any extra money for having mods, most people like to buy a car which is pretty standard (the whole belief that no/little mods = not thrashed) so they can do what they want with them.

Pretty sure you just put HD on the end for heavy duty, well thats what you do with daiken/exedy clutches.

Just pop a switch in series with the fuse and have on demand RWD/4WD..

What about the putting the egg in the radiator to stop a leak? They proved that myth was true. What about the exploding jawbreaker myth? They proved that true 3 times over... I love the show, being an engineer and all its good to see a program that makes people use their brains instead of the usual american reality/comedy crap. Pity the guys are so weird, how was that bag of sludge that he was going to eat?

They dont and they look crapper than the GTSt ones anyway.

Hey guys i think we are forgetting that the research they did was a bit flawed. I thought it was a widely known fact that it is more economical to wind ur windows down compared to use the aircon, but only up to about 80km/h. This is the point when the extra drag created by the windows being open becomes greater than the power the aircon uses. In the first test on mythbusters, run at 55mph = 89 km/h, they found that it was more economical to run the car with the aircon on. In the second test, they ran the cars at 45mph = 72 km/h, because it wasnt safe to go around the track for that long with their shit SUVs. In that test they found it was better to go with the windows down. It was the difference in speed that made the difference, youre still better off with the windows down at speeds up to 80km/h, then using the aircon at speeds above that. Rhett

This is the best free converter program I've seen, it has almost everything you could ever think of: http://www.joshmadison.com/software/

Cant see why not?

When you mate says ur rotors are undersize, he means they are too tin, not too small in diameter. So why not just get standard sized DBA4000 rotors? They would be a great upgrade and be a lot cheaper than buying slightly better calipers and new rotors. Maybe even get slotted ones?

How are they open at idle, are they electronic? Theyre obviously pretty different to the GTSt bov?