xRHETTx

I dont think that is the correct link, unless you are looking for buttons for 12 inch dolls or some crap.

You cant get rid of the vent altogether, or else wastegate could never close once its been opened.

I finish at 6pm on mondays so i guess i'll just rock up too. Got a lot of work at the moment so only be there for a little bit.

Yeah sorry... Advertise it on here, post pics and the auction report if you bought it from auction, i'm sure you'll get a buyer if its in good nick.

The spare pot is for calibrating the DFA, so you can imitate the signal from the airflow meter (variable voltage). Good news is after braking my mosfet amplifier on the IEBC, it only cost me $2 to get a new one. So much easier than trying to solder the pins back in, and jaycar had it in stock too.

Wow i remember a thread like this coming up not so long ago? Are you going to keep posting this every month for the next decade when you start the business? ;-) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ghlight=DESVAUX

Is it an 89 model? did you import it then realised how much it costs to run one? Or just trying to make a bit of money? I notice you are about 21, did you have trouble getting insurance, so decided to sell?

X-speed in WA sell a copy for about $1400 for front bar, skirts and rear bar. I'd love to have the front bar but looking at the photo on the do luck website, my car is lower than the car they have and already the front bar is way too low. I can imagine the front bar having more than 3-4cm clearance on most slightly lowered skylines.

Do luck Type 2 kit for R32 gtst.. Pics at... http://www.do-luck-sea.com/aero-hcr32.htm

Oh yeah forgot about that post, its a long thread... I got a bit complacent after having made the DFA and hand controller and almost had the IEBC finished when... I snapped one of the legs off the voltage regulator. I'll have to go buy another VR from jaycar. Damn it. Pin out for S1 R33 is the same as R32 gtst. just do a search on google, you'll find one pretty easy.

Post it in the FAST thread, someone will be able to help you out.

Hey guys we did this 2 years ago, had a lunch time meet up the top level of the engineering carpark at Clayton. We got about 10 cars there and about 15 guys. I'd be up for it, but only if its thurs or friday next week, to busy until then.. Ive got the dirty white r32 gtst with the www.skylinesaustralia.com sticker Dont go to RMIT, Monash rules! Been there for 5 years now.. Damn.

You can turn off the '4wd' in a r32 gtr but not the later models. You have to take out the front drive shaft apparently.

Hey guys Ive just noticed something on the IEBC pcb thats a bit confusing, the small link link5 is shown in the wrong position on the printed circuit board... Make sure you follow the overlay diagram not the picture and not whats printed on the pcb. The link5 is printed in the position it needs to be in for the DPA kit, not the boost controller kit.

Hey guys ive just noticed something on the IEBC pcb thats a bit confusing, the small link link5 is shown in the wrong position on the printed circuit board... Make sure you follow the overlay diagram not the picture and not whats printed on the pcb. And yeah i earthed the crystal things... i dont think thats documanted very well either, i suppose its not that important to do it.

Dont they make torches?

Less air flow under car = more grip.

Finished my DFA today, did everyone wire the link between the crystal capaciter thing and the hole near the plug?

Its under the plastic kick panel on the left where the front passenger puts there legs. I think there are 3 screws you have to undo to get to it.

Yeah i think the long split part is the reason why CES dump/front pipes are regarded so highly. IMHO they are the only split dump/front pipe that you can get off the shelf. Correct me if im wrong but ive never seen any others like them. When i have the cash i'll definately be getting a CES split dump/front pipe. For the rest of the system, most 3" or so cat back systems are very similar and probably do about the same job

Hey all, I'm in the market for an aftermarket boost gauge, mainly because i need to tune my Jaycar boost controller, and my factory gauge isnt really precise enough. My main question is, is their any benefit to getting an electronic gauge? I had my heart set on a Defi BF boost gauge but with the controller is going to be about $400 posted to my door (from nengun). Is there any advantage in going this option rather than getting a mechanical gauge for less than half the Defi gauges' price? I can pick up a japanese brand name mech gauge secondhand for less than $100. I dont think ill need the replay facility of the Defi gauges, but the warning light may come in handy. Thanks, Rhett

Jaycar DFA and handcontroller, group buy happening at the moment, does the same thing as a SAFC but costs about $100 plus your time to put it together.

Yeah id love to order half the stuff in that thread, such as roof racks and the knee cushion pad things.

Sorry not trying to be smart. This question does come up every month or so, and usually people dont realise that the units are x100mm mercury. :-) But slightly above 0 is too low. Perhaps borrow an aftermarket boost gauge from someone and see what it shows? Its possible that the gauge is out of calibration and is just showing the boost to be too low. Do you notice a lack of power at all, or no difference in power coming onto boost? I dont think that having the gauge go up to 7 means that they expect you to increase boost at all, as all gauges are designed that way. Your tacho goes way past the rev limiter for example. The oil pressure gauge goes way above any normal operating range.

Pics finally here...