Butters

I can't remember exactly what ant man had on his skyline it may have been twin t04z , made big power numbers, near 1000 in the days before that was a thing. Didn't boost until near 7000rpm though. Cool as hell to see.

Amm this is why you buy a nice greddy oil filter re-locator, they have the bypass built in at the filter re-locator. Also thermostat for the oil cooler. Much easier than messing with the block.

Billet block is all win. I've not seen a lot documented on the braced blocks and cracking. Lots of claims from sellers of the braces of course

What sort of power are you making ?

Looking for any extra input that helps me make a decision on an intercooler. I am looking at staying with a drop in GTR style and I also have space constraint as I don't want to cut factory bumper / bar. I'd like the cooler that be the highest flow/hp rating given my thickness constraint. Options I see are Plazmaman Pro Series 76mm, rated 850hp (some claim 950hp fly) ARC M073 and M079 , both 70mm, the M079 is high density and lightens your wallet more. Nismo 75mm - Not sure who makes these now ? used to be ARC I believe , also very good at making your wallet lighter. PWR 68MM , Seems like the plazmaman would be better choice Did I miss any ? Any experience with the above ? would love to hear power achieved And no I won't be going 100mm and yes power goal is lots

PM sent

Looking to speak to someone that has installed a HKS V-Cam, have a couple of install questions that I would like to run past someone that has done it. Post here or send me a PM please

Amm ... put the centre bolt back in about 5 turns ... maybe Not sure what you have on the end of the puller but doubt its sitting in the crank nicely.

Both that graph and article suggest a spool of ~250rpm earlier. Not to be sneezed at if you want a street car, specially with no top end loss. Wondering if it will end up equal on spool going from .86 to 1.06 but have the extra top end. Any one have rear housing back to backs ?

I have a g35-1050 on an rb26, started to wind boost into it and the head lifted. The response so far has been pretty similar to my old gt35 on rb26. 1 bar by 4200/300, so its not amazing by any means. "If" it gets the extra power though over the gt35 it will be a good thing. Taking the chance of head off to add vcam, so hoping this combo will be really responsive. I have been wondering about going t4 split now they are out but will mean going from the .86 I have not to the 1.06 as noted above. Not to mention the cost of manifold, housing, etc.

He said he didn't like OSG rattle. Makes nismo the only choice

I agree with go for the twin if you are worried about power, for the extra cost it holds a lot more. You lose no drive-ability, nor does it get loud. So only downside is the wallet. Unless you have one already, then carry on ...

With changing to mild / Ti , I tend to agree hence asking the question. I don't know or can find enough about the heat properties of the materials to understand. The bonnet vents make a lot of sense and what you say about creating a flow does too. I said carbon bonnet, as i don't want to cut my factory one, these things are getting rare.

This is what i mean in regards to inconel shielding

I have a cefiro with a g35-1050 on a 6b00ber. It is a black car with ABS and aircon still in place. I drive the car on the street and sit in traffic. I am having really high underbay temps , so hot you can't even touch the strut tower even on a winters day. Everything is ceramic coated(inside and out), turbo has a nappy and the dump pipe(made in stainless) is also heat wrapped. I have another car that is similar, ceramic coated and it seems to work MUCH better than this car, both done by the same place but some years apart. It works so well i can touch the dump pipe while the car is running, it is not even heat wrapped, nor does the turbo have a nappy. The only difference between the two cars the the one that works well is a mild steel dump, ceramic coated. Things I am considering and would be interested in advice on : 1> Swapping to a mild steel dump 2> trying the inconel heat shielding on the 6boost and dump 3> Titanium dump ? 4> Carbon bonnet with vents above turbo 5> other suggestions ? When the car run twins it was very hot on the hot side but the heat didn't bleed into the body like it does now. #waits to hear how this is all my fault

The atessa unit under the rear parcel shelf has a light on it. A series of blinks gives you a number that is a fault code. On this forum is the code numbers and the fault. It can range from really easy to solve to very damn hard. Mine fell in the hard category, multiple codes and after fixing some I just replaced the setup with a full race unit and never looked back

I am running a getrag with 4.11s . Really like it for a street car, as a race car i'd be changing out to 3.7. 4.3 I think is going to far unless you are building a motorkhana car.

I;m guessing you are not staging the pumps then ? or have you added some wiring mods to the factory hat also ?

Just note fitting one in a 32 is a bastard, I'd assume the same with the 33. The pull type clutch with damper is a good amount thicker meaning clearing the nose of the box is hard work. Some people clearance tunnel as a result. Converting to push type seems to make this a bit part a bit easier. You will need to make up some transmission mount spacers as the mounts on the body are different too.

Thanks for the above reply I tend to agree. I have really struggled to find a suspension shop I am happy with. These guys did make basic mistakes. ------------------------- Given how this conversation has gone and what I have learned, I really think these are track car only. I have bushes going into standard arms today

never used one myself - https://rawbrokerage.com/products/collins-rb25-rb26-engine-to-350z-z33-370z-z34-transmission-adapter A bit more too it as well than just an adapter plate.

Just see it from my point, the simple fact I am typing the next list is suggests your focus is on the wrong outcome. I have no issue to accept that it may be setup wrong, by me and it resulted in this failure. Your assumption that I am a numpty is the problem. > Researched options and spoke to people that own them > Spoke to GKTech about my intended purpose being road use. > Installed, followed instructions > Had professional suspension place(road and race) go over all suspension prior to engineering. > Engineer reviewed all suspension, photographed, signed off and submitted to DOT (yes inc camber arms) > DOT carried out a full inspection of vehicle, again including these arms. Driving normal road ... *Snap. Throughout all this process not a single mechanic, engineer or inspector saw an issue. As I said, they could have been setup wrong, yes I might have done it(I don't think so). The suspension place was explicitly asked to check. If it had bound on setup, i would have also expect it to fail closer to install, not 6 months later. It would suggest more likely to me a regular checking of product is required, the product is not suitable for road use(even with engineering) or a fault of the product has occurred here. It is from what I see an unusual event, so if you are correct it is a setup issue, then it is a really good learning for others that should be shared.

I installed, video instructions followed and made sure it was nice and free as per instructions. No signs of binding and you can see it was running centre on. Well until it failed of course Your comment is out of line on who's fault this is. If a small setup issue is going to result in such catastrophic failure that could have easily resulted in a vehicle crash. The company of the product needs to REALLY step up on the level of warnings and instructions. If this is a failure from a as you state, easy to make setup issue I am also surprised I found no more examples of it when looking to buy. I can tell you, had I, I would have gone with a bush kit. *awaits to hear how picture proves it was setup wrong .....

Sooo I bought these after recommendations on threads like these. The joint snapped at the shaft, light driving, straight line at 50kmh. Had been in car 6months, no track days. Contacted GKTech and they are sending me a "more robust bearing". Which is now on all the arms. Not sure if I am going to use them or switch to rubber bush, mine is a street car so i may have gone to far going with these.