Butters

I've run Nismo, kaaz and cusco in a rwd S13. Nismo has been the best for me. If i was you though I'd consider a standard gtr diff, it's what i have gone to in all my street cars and once freshened up is by far the nicest to drive on the daily.

Funny reading this back 3 years later. Ended up with the g35-1050, getrag+4.11s and vcam. Couldn't be happier. Made 100hp more than my goal and does the school run just fine

So an opportunity to get one popped up and I bought in. Not as impressed as I hoped to be(near 2k manifold remember) , it's got some weight and I will put on scales next to a 6boost soon to compare. The small gate flange is insulting and whilst they say you can run a 50mm I expected the gate runner to be bigger. Swapping the flange over is going to be a PITA. The good stuff: The facing on the head side is amazing I can see that being a good seal. The overall finish is really really good. Will be a long while before I fit this and as always remember I am not a mechanic, the above is an opinion of enthusiast

Now it seems no question that if you are going to put in a front LSD, the quaife is the choice. What I want to know is how polite it is on the street regular driving ? Does it chatter around roundabouts ? does it create understeer on tight corners ? My car is a setup for both driving the kids around on Sunday and the odd roll racing. I had a 1 way in the rear and it was a very nice polite one but the chatter in car parks got to me and I was much happier with a shimmed stocker. I also run a nismo clutch so I have no rattles, to give you an idea of how I want this car to be. Given the expense of the quaife, then the setup, then the labour to remove and re-install engine this is not a decision I am keen to get wrong. Sadly most of the cars around me in perth with one are race setup and either broken or make too much noise to even tell whats going on in the front. I currently have no issue with traction(720rwhp) and the car isn't going to see much more power(maybe 800), so again, not sure its worth the risk if I have to pull it out. Be great to hear from anyone that has this LSD, drives on the street and can give an idea of what situations it starts to create noise or impact to the car.

Both the body loom and trans sub loom are different between auto and manual. You are going to need to change at least one of them. Most people just change the trans loom, this leaves you with un-used plugs on the auto body loom. Picky people will do both to tidy things up. The speed drive is mechanical, you can use which ever matches your gearing.

@GTSBoy posted a good link, happy to answer any questions that thread doesn't.

Neat as posted rebuild them. They are noisy as heck though if you don't have the factory damper flywheel.

I hear this a lot, specially from motivedvd but rarely see any data. It's also not usually all gains , some trade off is at play. So its about getting a setup fit for your purpose. I've had really good success with smaller .8 rears on RB26's, always wondered about going larger but a back to back test is very expensive. Be great to see some data to sway the expense. I'm not in the 1000hp plus region where i suspect larger rear is always going to be better.

On G series ? or more in general , any back to back dyno sheets kicking around ?

Normally really informative videos from Real Street but this was another advert

He has stated in previous video that the brace was built for 4wd adaptions. Then they noticed blocks crack less. Yes walk is it's feature but also this from the PRP site. "Aftermarket diffs crack blocks! it’s a fact, the Platinum Block brace will not only stop block twist, but stops the diff snapping the block under load, energy is dissipated through your 40mm thick integrated and webbed brace, blocks cracking and snapping become a thing of the past!"

So this was a fun watch. Seems a lot of value in an N1 block over a standard, specially for the power levels that are not going to split bores(1200 + ?) . It does make you really question the value of a brace.

Bit sad really, turns you aware from what actually might be a good product.

Watched this yesterday, a lot of BIAS as they are now selling them but given how little info around I thought I would share. They claim 15% power increase ... yer I wish, love to see this comparison if anyone has seen it. So far the advantages over a 6 boober seem to be : Comes with a gate flange Lighter - 5kg ish ? More compact - better AC and would help reduce heat transfer Has a heat blanket option Downsides : Clearance of studs(6boober has this too) Higher cost Reverse rotation turbos only( big issue for those that have a turbo)

The heat blankets have a price now . Seems very reasonable in todays world. https://artecperformance.com.au/products/nissan-rb-v-band-reverse-rotation-thermal-management-blanket

That was my first thought also. I dropped coin on a frenchies kit, which is really awesome but be nice if the factory stuff all fit better with 6boost. Not sure how I feel about the compressor outlet being so close to the manifold though. Very keen to see one of these with a heat blanket over them.

anyone on here ?

Wouldn't reducing the gap between the magnet and cup increase the reading ? IE some metal filings finding its way inside and would give an intermittent experience depending on where it is sitting. The other failure point would be the spring ?

I am using this one - https://raceworks.com.au/catch-cans-tanks/catch-cans/external-breathers/1-6l-black/ I have both breathers plumbed into the front inlets. The I have one of the top ones blocked off, the other into my inlet. Being on e85 and a street car i breathe a lot and despite the low baffling it catches most of it. Fills it on a night of roll racing.

And looks like they just released the big daddy RB version https://www.facebook.com/PlatinumRacingProducts/posts/pfbid0zrf5V3ne4bxAsqd4giMwcMKnxABZiy9qGNKweusafPMGckw18VWFy6e5fA1cqpFTl

You can get two different sized titanium nut kits(different makers), can't tell from pics but I assume yours are the 12mm ? Please keep posting pic's keen to hear / see all the good and bad ! Seems like you have a lot of clearance to strut tower, this is in the 32R ? Also interested in seeing potential space for a new turbosmart straight gate Also looks like so so much room underneath compared to a 6boost, not sure what you would use it for but I am sure the AC lines would appreciate it

Not sure what you would gain by swapping to the g35-1050, your result is very good and kind of better than my g35-1050 (.82) on a rb26. Stick with it I say.

Please report back here the results ! Also if you could throw them on some scales the verify the weight that would be awesome.

Anyone have any experience with these ? https://artecperformance.com.au/products/artec-nissan-skyline-rb-exhaust-manifold-v-band-reverse-rotation What got my interest was the 7.1kg, my last 6boost was solid 12kg. Not to mention it didn't fit... wait i just did I also like the off the shelf blanket option. I've had real heat issues with my current setup. The reverse rotation is a bit tits as it means new turbo and new piping.

As others have said, HP sold is not HP tested. 1050cc injectors are the first tell, a setup for 650 crank, not wheel really. The 044 should be able to get you to 600rwhp ... JUST. The bigger thing here is the fuel reg, you will need to squeeze those injectors and need an adjustable reg to do it. I've also had fuel regs run higher pressure at idle due to being faulty and then drop pressure when demand is on. I got suckered into upgrading fuel lines and pumps when all the time it was the faulty fuel reg.