Butters

See that's the cool thing about boost. Once you have it you can control it ... Very easy to tame down a small turbo's power curve vs trying to get a big turbo to come on early enough for the car to be fun.

So when kelford say - 80lb seat pressure at 39.10mm installed height Should be good ?

Coupe = floor pan same as all coupes from cat back including GTR. The only differences could be mount points, from gearbox or sub-frame. R33 GTS4 will have a long auto gearbox which might change that mount point, easily solvable though. Sedan is different, longer under rear seat.

My money is still on an oil pressure drop post cam cover. The other thing you have to question here is the data sampling and again I am sure you have done this but given we are running out of ideas I am wondering if it is actually activating before 3500rpm and your only seeing the change in the data at the point. Simple things like only log after 3500 for all parameters Are you holding the engine steady at 3000rpm for a period of time and activating the solenoid and seeing no change in the KV8 data ?

So to be very specific . The KV8 is sending PWM to the negative side of the solenoid at a specific RPM say 2000 ? Then you are reading the reluctor sensor on the side of the cam cover to see the advance ? And not seeing a change in the cam until 3500rpm ?

Currently installing a V-Cam also. So following thread with interest. In the instructions it does recommend an upgraded oil pump due to the pressure required by the vcam. 40 psi at idle is pretty stout though, can't imagine that being an issue if the flow is good. For my own interest, how are you confirming that it is or is not opening the vcam ? What are you using to control the vcam ? Assume an ecu over the HKS control box ? My only suggestion to help and I am sure you have looked at this is go through the o-rings(Cam cover ones especially). If one is pinched, 40 psi at cam cover is going to result in a lot less to cam gear if you have a leak. I agree with others above, the valve springs should have nothing to do with this.

You are correct, it was very flat until about 6000ish, then went straight up, horizontal for a couple of thousand rpm. I did take a picture, i'll see if i can did it out. It was "one of" the most powerful gtr in australia at the time.

Yep. One of his many combos. The Dyno graph was like nothing I have seen before nor likely to see again.

I can't remember exactly what ant man had on his skyline it may have been twin t04z , made big power numbers, near 1000 in the days before that was a thing. Didn't boost until near 7000rpm though. Cool as hell to see.

Amm this is why you buy a nice greddy oil filter re-locator, they have the bypass built in at the filter re-locator. Also thermostat for the oil cooler. Much easier than messing with the block.

Billet block is all win. I've not seen a lot documented on the braced blocks and cracking. Lots of claims from sellers of the braces of course

What sort of power are you making ?

Looking for any extra input that helps me make a decision on an intercooler. I am looking at staying with a drop in GTR style and I also have space constraint as I don't want to cut factory bumper / bar. I'd like the cooler that be the highest flow/hp rating given my thickness constraint. Options I see are Plazmaman Pro Series 76mm, rated 850hp (some claim 950hp fly) ARC M073 and M079 , both 70mm, the M079 is high density and lightens your wallet more. Nismo 75mm - Not sure who makes these now ? used to be ARC I believe , also very good at making your wallet lighter. PWR 68MM , Seems like the plazmaman would be better choice Did I miss any ? Any experience with the above ? would love to hear power achieved And no I won't be going 100mm and yes power goal is lots

PM sent

Looking to speak to someone that has installed a HKS V-Cam, have a couple of install questions that I would like to run past someone that has done it. Post here or send me a PM please

Amm ... put the centre bolt back in about 5 turns ... maybe Not sure what you have on the end of the puller but doubt its sitting in the crank nicely.

Both that graph and article suggest a spool of ~250rpm earlier. Not to be sneezed at if you want a street car, specially with no top end loss. Wondering if it will end up equal on spool going from .86 to 1.06 but have the extra top end. Any one have rear housing back to backs ?

I have a g35-1050 on an rb26, started to wind boost into it and the head lifted. The response so far has been pretty similar to my old gt35 on rb26. 1 bar by 4200/300, so its not amazing by any means. "If" it gets the extra power though over the gt35 it will be a good thing. Taking the chance of head off to add vcam, so hoping this combo will be really responsive. I have been wondering about going t4 split now they are out but will mean going from the .86 I have not to the 1.06 as noted above. Not to mention the cost of manifold, housing, etc.

He said he didn't like OSG rattle. Makes nismo the only choice

I agree with go for the twin if you are worried about power, for the extra cost it holds a lot more. You lose no drive-ability, nor does it get loud. So only downside is the wallet. Unless you have one already, then carry on ...

With changing to mild / Ti , I tend to agree hence asking the question. I don't know or can find enough about the heat properties of the materials to understand. The bonnet vents make a lot of sense and what you say about creating a flow does too. I said carbon bonnet, as i don't want to cut my factory one, these things are getting rare.

This is what i mean in regards to inconel shielding

I have a cefiro with a g35-1050 on a 6b00ber. It is a black car with ABS and aircon still in place. I drive the car on the street and sit in traffic. I am having really high underbay temps , so hot you can't even touch the strut tower even on a winters day. Everything is ceramic coated(inside and out), turbo has a nappy and the dump pipe(made in stainless) is also heat wrapped. I have another car that is similar, ceramic coated and it seems to work MUCH better than this car, both done by the same place but some years apart. It works so well i can touch the dump pipe while the car is running, it is not even heat wrapped, nor does the turbo have a nappy. The only difference between the two cars the the one that works well is a mild steel dump, ceramic coated. Things I am considering and would be interested in advice on : 1> Swapping to a mild steel dump 2> trying the inconel heat shielding on the 6boost and dump 3> Titanium dump ? 4> Carbon bonnet with vents above turbo 5> other suggestions ? When the car run twins it was very hot on the hot side but the heat didn't bleed into the body like it does now. #waits to hear how this is all my fault

The atessa unit under the rear parcel shelf has a light on it. A series of blinks gives you a number that is a fault code. On this forum is the code numbers and the fault. It can range from really easy to solve to very damn hard. Mine fell in the hard category, multiple codes and after fixing some I just replaced the setup with a full race unit and never looked back

I am running a getrag with 4.11s . Really like it for a street car, as a race car i'd be changing out to 3.7. 4.3 I think is going to far unless you are building a motorkhana car.