Mik

They don't have the same transfer function as the Z32s. I'm hoping it's similar though.

Has anyone actually used these AFMS? They appeal to me because they are standard size and will plug straight in. I wasnt to run them with a Power Fc. Any feedback will be appreciated. Thanks in advance

Do the R34 N1s have the split exhaust housing like the GT-SSs do?

It all depends how much power you are planning to make. You will have better tuning load resolution if you use AFMs that are on or near the limit for the power you are making.

Yes, but I am quite sure that that is absolute, not relative pressure. You need to subtract 1 bar from those figures.

Nah...they definately don't run that much boost. 44 inches mercury is just under 1.5 bar. But I think they are refeting to absolute not relative pressure, so it is about 0.5 bar or about 7 PSI, which is about what I always thought.

Oz is a Paul too! And yeah...they will knock you back for a bald tyres, as they do check

I for one can vouch for Ben and Eric from BEL. They are masters when it comes to tuning Jap ECUs.

why not??

R34 GT-ts will become very common in the near future.

The standrad nissan Gasket is only good for up to 87mm bore though. Any bigger, you need an aftermarket gasket.

An 80 series landcrusier turbo is closer to 2300kg than to 2900kg

I actually meant 550 degrees C at the turbine outlet

Diesel engines do run much lower exhaust temps, but around 550 degrees celcius is pretty much normal for a turbo diesel engine on full song.

Are they for 65mm AFMS or 80mm AFMs?

I have looked for the company that supplied my nozzles, and they don't seem to exist anymore. I nozzles I bought cost me about $12 each from memory including shipping. So they were preety dear. I might have a few spares, cos I ordered a fair few of them.

Your hand can't supply enough heat to evaporate the water off it immediately. When I had the water spray in my Subaru, if I went for a hard drive with the water spray on, the intercooler would stay bone dry because the water would evaporate before it even touched the cooler.

That's because your hand is not a large source of heat energy like the intercooler is.

It has been answered. A fine mist is the only way to do it. The metho/water mix will actually have less of a cooling effect. The reason for this is that the intercooler cools when the water evaporates because the evaporation of water absorbs energy. The metho/water mix will evaporate with less energy absorbtion.

The nozzles used there won't do much for cooling, but will waste water. The water needs to be made into a VERY fine mist to promote evaporation, as that is what causes the cooling effect.

Included is: * 3 brass/stainless steel nozzles * Power switch * manual override switch * Adjustable Hobbs pressure swicth * Electronic control Box * Power relay to drive pump * Some hose All you might need is a little hose if there is not enough there.

I'd sell it for $120

I was using the pump for the rear window washer on the subaru. You can do the same on the skyline.

I had it with the stock TMIC. It will work fine with a front mount, just need to suitably place the nozzles. The nozzles create a large amount of mist. From memory, ach is designed to cool an are of 10 squae meters or something in a sports stadium. I have attatched a couple of pics of the nozzles.

You want the mist to be as fine as possible. On my subaru, I had a water spray set up that used very fine nozzles. The way it was set up, a very fine mist was sprayed in the the bonnet scope in front of the intercooler. The water would vapourise as soon as it touched the coooler or even before, therefore cooling the air. I have seen a few people do tests on the track. Someone found that garden nozzles which used about 1L/min actually cooled the intercooler much less than misting nozzles which used one twentieth of the water. When I set mine up, I used three brassnozzles designed for evaporative cooling which I imported from the US. The nozzles are made specifically for cooling sports stadiums and the like. If anyone is interested, I still have the whole kit inlcuding nozzles, adjustable hobbs pressure switch, relays, switch and a custom made electronic controller which holds the pump on for 5 seconds after boost drops (keeps the pump going between gears). I'm willing to sell this kit as I no longer need it.