Mik

Are the clutch fans on Gtrs the same as the ones on GTSts? Does any one know for sure?

As long as it runs okay, I don't really care. Did you definately have standard R32 ECU in your R33 and it ran okay?

I'm assuming the maps are a little different, but does anyone know if an R32 GTR ECU will plug into and run an R33 GTR?

I'm pretty sure they are designed to drop straight in. The head doesn't even need to be machined. Technically, if valve clearences were right before changing the cams, they should be right after you drop in the new cams too.

The stereo pulls next to no current from the accessories wire. All the current is drawn from the constant power wire.

What do you want to run? You can switch a relay from the stereo wire. Then, you can pull lots of current.

Tell me about it...

Do you run the air box or pod filters? What about the RB30E air flow meters (VL and R31). Are they the same as a Z32?

Yeah...I see your point Just a bit of an update, with more road tuning, I now reach 1.3 bar boost by about 5400RPM in third gear. The car feels much better to drive. If cams improve the midrange even slightly, the driveablility will be good enough for me. The only thing is, I will definately need to fix my AFM issue first.

Well the RB20/25 ones would be easier to fit, so I don't have to butcher the looms. But, I really didn't want to fit pod filters. I guess there is no other way. Does the GTR power FC have the RB20 AFMs in it's table of AFMs? Are there any 65mm AFMs with a higher load resolution?

The AFMs in my GTR are maxed out. Is there any alternative to running Z32 AFMs? The reason I ask is that I would like to retain the stock air box. I don't want to fit pod filters. I think I have seen NISMO AFMs. I'm assuming these will bolt straight in and even plug straight in? I don't know where to buy them from though.

That is a massive difference. I think 272s would kill the idle a little too much for my liking. SK, Do you think the 260s would be better than the 256/260 for my application? I think I will drop in a set of cams and keep the GT-RSs for now. If it doesn't work out, the cams won't be wasted with smaller turbines anyway. I have attatched the GTRS graph from the HKS website. I would love to know what has been done to that engine, because it looks like the engine is making 1.8kg boost at about 5000RPM. I guess the Jap fuel helps because you can run heaps of timing on spoolup. Is the R34 RB26 a bit better than the R33 version? Or is the extra torque on the R34 over the R33 just due to ECU mapping?

Thanks SK. Are you saying the poncams haven't been good in GTRs or that you havent tried them? I think the poncam's lift is about 9.2mm. Do you think that's too much lift for the standard valvetrain, or will it be okay? I guess there's not that much else I can do is there? Without taking the eninge out that is. But if I were to do that, I'd sooner swap the turbos for a pair of 2530s or N1s.

I have an R33 GTR with a pair of GT-RS's. What can be done to bring boost on a little quicker? The car has good top end power now (obviously), it is currently making about 340rwkw on 1.3 bar. Target boost is currently reached at about 5800RPM in the higher gears. The car has adjustable cam gears, but they are set to zero degrees on both sides as we found this to be the best. All internals are stock, but other mods are: 550 injectors HKS dumps NISMO tuned length front pipes Trust MX 80mm exhaust Power FC and boost control kit I have been told that the exhaust is choking it, hence spool up is slow. I tried dropping off the exhaust from the front pipes and going for a run, things improved VERY slightly (like 100RPM), so I don't think this is a problem. The wastegate actuators are adjusted to be quite hard (crack at about 1 bar) I don't want to pull the engine out of the car, as the engine is still very healthy (perfect compression and leakdown), so oversize pistons and higher compression is not an option. The only other option is a pair of drop in cams. What sort of difference would a pair of say Tomei PONCAMS make to midrange power? They make two types, both with 260 intake and one with either 256 or 260 exhaust duration. I'm assuming the pair of 260s would be best for the big turbines? Are there any other better cams that will fit straight in using standard valve springs and without machining the head? I would be over the moon to have target boost at 5000RPM. Is this possible, or should I just swap the turbos for a pair of 2530s or N1s? I know these will be on full song at 4500RPM. Also, I'm getting compressor surge at low RPM in high gears, I'm assuming the extra air flow form a pair of cams will stop this. Is this wishfull thinking? Thanks in advance

I think he is saying that when the squirter broke, the hole was much larger than it originally was (as the squirters are tapered), and this would cause a drop in oil pressure.

The power FC boost contoller kit is extremely easy to set up. I managed to set up 4 boost settings in about 30 minutes with the help of my girlfriend.

It works very well

At which end? The front diff (sump) or the transfer case? Isn't the flange on the front diff? If you disconnect there, won't the shaft turn and hit the bottom of the car?

It's a 33...what stops oil going everywhere if you pull the front shaft out?

How do people dyno a GTR on a 2wd dyno? Do they take the front drive shaft off? If this is the case, wouldn't gear oil spill everywhere?

I need someone to confirm that my HKS cam gears are set to zero degrees. The marks are a bit confusing. Please see attatched picture. Thanks in advance

SK, is +2 degrees IN and -4 degrees EX a good place to start for standard cams too?

What is a good starting point for Inlet and exhaust camshaft timing on a GTR, when the aim is for good mid to top end power (say about 4500RPM to 8000RPM)? At the moment, the car is running +2 degress on the inlet and -4 degrees on the exhaust.

I need to know ASAP the difference between a late model R32GTR RB26 (around 1992-1993) and an R33 GTR RB26. I know that the crankshaft in the R33 engine is different. Are there any other differences? Are the heads, cams etc the same? I know the R33 made more power and torque, but is that just due to different ECU Maps or different boost, or is the eninge hardware different? Also, can anyone tell me what the lowest engine number for an R33 RB26DETT would be? IE. would number 046xxx be from an R32 r an R33. Thanks in advance

PM Butthead about his experience with Croydon and then with Ben at BEL. But he will tell you something about an R33 GTR just tuned by Jim. It had the works, 2530s, HKS cooler, full exhaust and dumps, 500cc injectors, power FC. The car was running 1.4 bar boost yet could only manage a 12.1@~110MPH.