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Mik

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Everything posted by Mik

  1. They are at Homebush. A few guys on this forum have had their cars tuned by Ben at BEL and are very happy with them. If you want more info PM wrxhoon, butthead or fullmetal (these are ones I can remember off the top of my head). Oh yeah...and I had my car tuned there too...and I'm happy Here's a link: http://www.belperformance.com.au/
  2. BEL performance will do it for $300 (approx), but he will give you a set price beforehand. They also have the propper Apexi Power Excel Software too. Speak to Ben and tell him that Mick with the STI sent you.
  3. NEVER use cheap and silcion in the same sentence ever again...hehe Nah...seriously, I wich I new too. CGC's prices on silicon hose are ridiculous...that charge you buy the inch for staright hose! Apparently, you can get the dull looking silicon hose much cheaper. It is used alot on trucks, and seems to get damaged less by hose clamps...I'm not sure where to buy it from though.
  4. Not North Sydney, but now too far and does an excellent job. Speak to Ben at BEL performance
  5. A have seen the ACL bearings and they are a perfect fit for SR20. Contact Rocket Industries...they are Australian, but I'm sure they will ship to you.
  6. I don't know of a manual, but it is really pretty easy to use. What do you need to know??
  7. I need to purchase some oil resistant hose in 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch. It is just to plumb in a ctach can, so high pressure hose is not needed. All I can find so far is: * Heater hose (which will deteriorate with oil) * Hydrolic pressure hose (Which would work but is too dear) * That clear reinfroced hose (which I don't really like because it looks ugly and doesn't look like it will handle heat too well) Where can I buy black rubber hose in these sizes that will be oil resistant? I have tried the normal auto accessories shops, Pirtek and Enzed, hardware stores etc. Thanks in advance
  8. A lifter may be RPM dependant, but I can't see it being load (throttle) dependant
  9. Heya...it's about time though...hehe 1.6 60ft...I guess you used proper slicks for this run??
  10. You should EASILY be able to run in the 11s with 2530s...especially in an R32
  11. If I were you I would do the following before buyijng the car: 1) Get a compression test done 2) Get a leakdown test done 3) Pull the oil filter out, drain it and see if there is any grit to be seen
  12. Mate...I said it MIGHT have destroyed anything...implying that it would not be a good idea to buy the car without checking it over VERY thoroughly. In my books, no matter how well someone thinks the engine may be running (which couldn't be that great anyway with only one turbo) if its had ceramic go through the engine and oil...there is no way I'd want to own it. I've seen engines that have had pieces of ceramic go through them...they aren't pretty. In the end...all I was doing was answering someones question. You THOUGHT my answer was silly and you proceeded to have a go at me and tell me I don't know what I am talking about. Clearly, you don't know what you are talking about and are having problems admitting that you were wrong.
  13. If the entire turbine wheel broke off, I'd say oil would be pouring into the exhaust anyway. There would have to be smoke, how would you know if the oil is being burnt in the engine or the turbo? Also, it doesn't need to be blowing smoke to be stuffed. Bearings, oil pump, crank etc could be damaged and blow no smoke. Anyway...Now that you know that you in fact were the one who "doesn't know what you are talking about", how about an apology for having a go at me when I was just offering some advice to GTR090. After all, that was the purpose of his thread. He didn't want to buy a lemon...so he requested some advise which I gave him
  14. Maybe you should think before posting...or not post about something you have no idea about. See above. Some ceramic fragments could be in the engine, could have scroed the bore, could have damaged valves and bearings etc. If all cylinders are a little down on compression, why wouldn't the engine run smoothly? I was just making a suggestion and trying to help someone out...there is no need to act the hero
  15. If you believe this, then you are the silly one Gav...unfortunately 9 times out of 10 when a ceramic turbo lets go on a GTR, the wheel disintegrates and gets sucked back in through the exhaust ports. There is every possibility that the bore gets destroyed, valves get bend, oil pump gets scored, bearings and crank journals...bascially the works.
  16. Do you have stock turbos? How much boost are you running? It's pretty hard to run an 11 with standard ceramic turbos without risking breaking them and blowing the engine in the process.
  17. The cermaic turbine wheel may have gone through the engine and destroyed everything.
  18. You'd be suprised how well a good combination ball and spring/blled valve works
  19. The factory hoses are very hard to get access to. The easiest way to do it is to block all of the old hoses and run new hoses from the intake manifold through the bleed valve, to a tee junction and then to each wastegate actuator. This keeps the hoses nice and short too.
  20. yeah...you do need to be careful, especially with GTRs. A friend of mine recently went to have a look at a GTR which the owner had assured him was in original showroom condition. Upon inspection, he discovered that this was far from the truth. The car had been resprayed in a non factory colour, it had dodgy fibreglass bonnet and bumper, it had platic undertrays and other bits and pieces missing. Luckily my friend picked up on these things...I feel sorry for other people who aren't so lucky...
  21. DON'T use a wetcell battery in a boot. Hydrogen is released during charging...if there is a spark...your whole car will go bang! One of these is probably worth a try: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=46852
  22. When did I ever compare my car with a GTR??? I am comparing a stock WRX to a stock GTST...but while we are on it...how much boost does your GTR run? Because a stock R33 GTR with exhaust Will Not run a 12.4. Dad's R33 GTR runs 11.7 with Power FC
  23. Well I have a timeslip for an MY01 WRX that ran a 14.2 stock standard. This car is owned by a member of this forum who also owns a GTR. I have a timesplip for my old MY99 which just had an exhaust and a silicon intercooler hose. This one was a 13.7 I have a timeslip for my current MY00 STI which is a 12.6@110 and another 12.62@111mph. Only mods are Power FC and exhaust...stock boost. I know someone who has run a 14.0 in a stock standard MY03 recently. I also have seen a stock standard MY03 STI run a 13.6 By the way I'm not biased. There are currently 2 wrx's and 1 GTR in our family. We have also had numerouse other WRXs, a 200SX and a GTiR
  24. A standard WRX is tuned to drop boost at high RPM which is why they don't make much power. I can prove all of the times I listed
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