Mik

I mean the side clearance between the rod and the crank. If this is too large, the little ends get a hammering.

Did you check the rod side clearance? It could be caused by too much clearance.

and special spark plugs...

Bugger!! I reckon you will be right to re-use the gasket since you haven't run the engine. I had to do that when I built mine because I realised that the guy who reco'd my head set the valve clearances incorrectly. (He set the intake smaller than the exhaust, like most engines). I didn't have any issues. One thing to be careful of is that the surface grinder didn't leave to rough a finish on the head or block if you had them decked.

I have a set of Nismo braided brake lines for sale. They are brand new in the package and never used. I'm in Sydney, but will post. $280

The appropriate fastener torque is selected such that it will load the fastener to an appropriate percentage of it's tensile strength. Nissan select this torque for use with 30wt oil. If you use moly lube, the same amount of torque will result in much higher tensile load than the fastener was designed for. This may permanently stretch the fasteners.

Using moly lube on standard headbolts is not a good idea. You will overstretch them if you torque them to factory specs. Just use oil.

I'm guessing you are talking about Kris's and Nick's cars? They are using coppermix clutches which have a different setup to most twin plates. Both clutch plates drive a single hub. They rattle less than the normal types on idle, but they do rattle a bit under light load.

www.ezitrak.com is probably the best one around atm. CarMinder is okay, but it's major drawback is that it uses SMS to communicate. Telco's do not guaratee the carriage of SMS. Ezitrak uses voice, data and SMS to communicate. The carriage of voice and data services are gauranteed by telcos through SLA's and SFOA's.

Why not get a self monitored GPS/GSM tracking unit. You will get a call/SMS if your car is broken into/towed away and you can track the vehicle and romotely kill the engine from your phone.

PM me for more info

RB26 runs 20mm wide main shells and the RB25 runs 3/4 inch. You should be able to use either with the 26 crank.

I'm assuming it's for a BNR32? If so, buy a BCNR33 gasket kit and an oil stariner o ring for a BNR32. Will be about $300 all up.

Paul...when you say 'lag', do you mean throttle response (as in how long boost take to build when you open the throttle at enough revs for boost) or boost threshold (as in how many RPM are needed to build boost) I always found the GTRS to be excellent as far as 'lag' goes. What does your boost curve look like now? With the same cams as you have and a stock engine, I had 1.3 bar at about 4800-4900 RPM. That's not too bad, it's only a couple of hundred RPM worse than 2530s or 2860Rs. That was without any funky cam timing too...was running 110/113 (or whatever PONCAMS run...forget now) lobe centres. Grab a laptop and head out to the track and play with the spoolup. You should even be able to do it on the freeway as you don't need to be doing ridiculous speeds to tune the spoolup area.

With a lower rod ratio, the rod will be normal to the crank earlier in the combustion cycle, not later (ie. closer to TDC, meaning more force transfered to the crank pin and more torque. But I agree with you, if you want an engine to last, especially at higher rpm, longer rods are better. This page explains it well: http://e30m3performance.com/tech_articles/...namics/dyn2.htm

Average cylinder pressure over time is actually greater with a short rod than with a long rod. The reason for this is that maximum leverage on the crank occurs when the rod and crank are at right angles. This condition happens quicker with short rods leading to more torque. That said, longer rods will always be preferable (a rod ratio of about 1.75) for the other reasons sydneykid mentioned.

It will make massive torque though with rods that short. Which is why the jap stoker kits tend to make more torque then their minimal stroke increase would imply.

Very interesting. So I assume you offset ground the crank to de stroke it a bit? Did you hardchrome it first, or are you running custom big end shells? Was there enough meat in the ringlands to run such a low pin height (and 22mm pins)?

haha

I'm going to throw a spanner in the works and say that if you want a twin plate, go for a nismo copper mix. I have the 780ps model with the nismo large slave and it feels almost like a stock clutch. The 640ps(??) model feels even nicer to drive on. Also, they have a single hub that drives the two disks which makes them quiet and easy to line up.

The N1 engines use the same crank as the standard engines

They are supposedly designed for OEM BNR34 Turbos

The stock manifolds crack around the outlet if you remove much meat from there...that's probably why.

The other option is a pair of genuine N1 Manifolds. Then you also have the advantege of having the correct size outlet to suit the turbos.

Spot on... The clearances may be out, but they would have been vefore the cam change anyway...