Mik

I'll make it easy Case 1: Cams are standard base circle (32mm) - Which I think the HKS Step 2's are...but check -> If you just drop the cam in, the clearance will be the same as it was before you did the cam swap, as the only thing that has changed is the camshaft. The only part of the cam lobe that determines the valve clearance is the back of the lobe, and this should not be worn. HOWEVER, of course you should fit the cams and check clearance with a feeler gauge. ALSO, you will probably find that on an old engine, the clearances will be a little on the high side due to wear on the lifters, shims and valve stems. But re-shimming is painful and expensive, so as long as the clearances are acceptable, you may be better off fitting the cams and setting the clearances properly if you ever pull the head off. Most guys that do heads don’t buy shims they just set the clearance by taking a touch off the stems when after they have cut the valves / seats. Case 2: Cams are non standard base circle (32mm) – Tomei, Jun and others. This is done so you can run big lift without flycutting the cylinder head. In this case, you will either need to reshim the entire head, or buy lifters with the correct offset for your base circle. If you use the right lifters, theoretically, your valve clearance won’t change, but there will be too many variables so you should reset.

It was going before I pulled it apart, I drove it around for quite a while with no diff. and it will be going again soon...just as soon as I can find the time to put it back together

Doing the front diff atm

I go out of my way to get mine to idle as smoothly as possible...

I have seen a pair of GT-SS's for a GTR that had 0.6A/R front housings. They would have to be good turbos as I guess they would be something in between GT-SS's and 2530's. No idea where to get a set form though.

You can do them with the head on the block, but you will need to pressurise the cylinder with the valves shut to stop them dropping in.

GTRS's are a touch laggier than the 2530s. On a stock engine with type B poncams, I was making 1.3 bar at about 4800RPM with GTRS turbos. GTSS's have much better mid range, but not enough top end for me... Tomei do a 2530ish sized pair of turbos, maybe they are worth a look.

In that case, I'll have 5 please. Can they help me out?? I think not...

Another interesting point is that Nissan had a recall on 05U blocks due to them leaking coolant between 3&4 above the oil boss. But every casting is different, so I guess with blocks, it is the luck of the draw. But, ask Darren from Just Jap how long an 05U block lasts him in his Targa car, and he wouldn't be running more than about 500hp.

NISMO did 'prepare' their blocks, not too sure what that meant, but I'd imagine it would be heat tempering them rather than freezing them. I'm not convinced that cryo treating a block would stop it cracking. As for deburing...not sure whether they did or not, but my block was deburred from factory. But in any case, Rb26 blocks usually crack between 3 and 4 on the water jacket...good luck deburring it in there. Notice I said endurance use...not a 10-15 second squirt. A top fuel engine pulls 6000bhp, but lets see what happens if you try to run it for more than 20 seconds. And NISMO did real world testing...and I bet they have built (and broken) more RB26's over the past 17 years than any other organisation on earth.

Nismo don't seem to think so. Back in the day before 24U blocks, NISMO couldn't get 05U blocks to last at more than 450PS for endurance use. Also, when 24U blocks were available, there was only about 10,000JPY between an 05U and a 24U.

No they don't

Pretty sure it was hi octane

Yep...I have a feeling 24U blocks will never be made again.

I want to get a set of new injectors flow tested. Does anyone have any suggestions of where to go? Preferably in Sydney Please.

I have access to a lathe, that's not the problem. But I'd rather use something that is ready to go rather than risk altering the metalurgy of the studs. Also, I'm not going to spend an hours of stuffing around to save 50 bucks

ARP make 12mm studs for the RB26. You can't use 1/2 inch studs in an RB26 block anyway, because there are already 12mm threads there. And I know I can turn down the studs on a lathe, but if that's the case, I'd rather just buy the jap stuff because I know it will work and it isn't much dearer.

Has anyone successfully used ARP head and main stud kits on an RB26? I've heard that the main studs are too long and one of them punches a hole in the front driveshaft tube inside the sump. Have they recified this yet? Or should I just use Jap stuff?

Don't mean to hijack Paul's thread, but they will only suit Garrett based turbos. Trust (mitsu) and IHI based turbos use different actuators.

Show me 2 average ones for 45k each and watch me tom...

If you can get me a BNR34 GTR for Mid 40s (I don't care how many kays it's got) I'll have 2 please. 1 will get my old motor for weekend use, and the other will just get new turbos and I'll drive it every day. PM me and we can do a deal.

Think the 'little subaru' finished 3rd overall. I think he said he did a 1:08 in the wet. I think he was only running it on 1.1 bar too. An Giant...of course the GTR is king!! (I hoped you rubbed Ben's nose in it just a little bit )

It's got a bit I guess but I thought the front diff would last

Hey John, I hear you couldn't keep up with a certain little subaru...hehe

I can see that it possible to shim up the bearing side thrust on the car, but I can't see how the pinion and shaft can come out to change the spacer. Standard ATTESA. Went bang when it came on boost. Feels like it's broken the spider gears assembly.