32vspecII

yea its all good , i dont really think 4wd vs rwd is that much of an issue . there a pros and cons for both . rwd - cheaper , less drive train loss , lighter , drift 4wd - easier traction rb26dett will be a bit of work on stagea from what ive read due to the auto gearbox and hand brake configuration , even if it is 4wd . and you gonna have a lovely rb25det neo in there anyway , id just work that up . the fuse trick may or may not work . Ive heard r33/34 gearboxes have problems if you do it but im not 100% sure on the details and it only works on a 32 . so it might not be applicable to the stagea . but a atessa controller should be fine if you can find one that suits the stagea . like I said id get the best condition , highest factory spec , latest model car you can afford . You can add stuff like rims and mods and everything later but you only get 1 go at the base car and youll have to deal with that for ever .

the 4wd drive will be heavier and offer less stock performance , although better in the wet also the 4wd systems are more complex and therefore expensive id get the newest car you can afford . rwd is fine for 99% of driving situations and more fun anyway

if your mods are reasonable and legal i wouldnt worry 2 much . ie rims are within allowed size difference and cars not 2 low . i dont know about tow bars though . as your interstate rego is your main form of vehical identification you will need to make sure youve got all the import / compliance paper work and proof of ownership . give the department of planning and infrastructure a call and see what they require . also some states will give you a temporary rego for interstate transfer that might help to . but give them a call and make sure , essentially youve got to prove ownership and compliance . in terms of inspection tho everything will be the same , its just paperwork difference . also i got my transfer at warrick , no probs . if you got a pretty stock skyline/stagea i wouldnt worry at all

you will be sweet , i brought my s15 over from syd with pod and exhaust mods . the exhaust even scraped going over the pits . but they didnt care . for license transfer they are pretty relaxed . its not like a defect inspection

ive got one of those xforce mild steel exhaust comming from rzone performance , but its been 3 weeks and i still havent got it and they guys not very good at returning emails . I got hold of him and he said it will ship next week so ill let you know aparently the delays are due to xmas/nye . another guy on the forums got one from him and had no problems even fitted it himself for the price you cant go wrong . rzone also have full stainless xforce for about 1k . also PM gtst89 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/me...ber.php?u=10804 he has some nice stainless systems at a good price

how much have you budgeted for your rb25 conversion ?

series II defiently around the 20k mark , those rear tail lights are sexy!

the roads are better than sydney atleast welcome , i just spent the last 6 years in sydney off and on

what kind of budget ? http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod410.htm this one looks tasty , internally gated gt30 flanged for rb20/25s . Its pretty new though so I havent heard any experiences with it apart from that gcg do rebuilds of your stock turbo up to 450hp , full ball bearing , steel wheels .

if its under the 15 year rule you might as well comply it after the conversion afaik , as any road worthy issues with the old engine/gbox would need to be fixed for compliance and that money you obviously dont want to spend . but considering a front cut rb25det 5 speed is about 5k your going to be spending alot more that 4k! id say 6-7k if a workshop is doing it . if you do all the work yourself and get money back for your old bits it might come in under 5k . but budget for the unexpected to happen , it always does

id say 16-18k max i paid 14k from a dealer with warranty for my 95 gtst sedan auto and 2.5k to convert to manual with new heavy duty clutch .

or maybe the kms are extremely reduced from reality

the differences as mentioned are negligible , save some cash and get the auto

yeah , i paid 14k for my 95 gtst sedan and from a dealer with warranty

its a 180sx with a s13 silvia front

r33 but if you need 4 doors go the evo 6.5 or even a new 8

they are quite heavy and auto and 4wd and the rb25 is a much more linear type of engine than the 2l but with the usual mods that will all be forgotten .

i have 1 for a 4 door i dont know if its the same as the 2dr but the question is why would you bother ?

year and kms ???

14k from a dealer , freshly imported . it is also an auto but i budgeted a couple of grand extra for the manual conversion . you can easily get i nice 4dr r33 for 15k which makes them a bit of a bargain

yea no real difference in the 4 door insurance is this the one your looking at on prestige ? 2817 2000 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T 4-door Auto 83,000 White $24,500 21 Dec 04 cause its the only one I can find . if you want a different one budget a bit more for a manual . although the triptronic autos go quite well

go the 34 newer nicer 4 doors for flexibility still pretty quick and always responsive to mods heaps cheaper in the long run but id try to find one already complied here for piece of mind

im extremely interested!!!!

the sr20 is defiently power productive compared to a wrx . particularly a s15 as they have a great platform to start from such as large t28 turbo , some of which are ball bearing , 440cc injectors , larger afm , vvt . However the s13 sr20 engines suffer a bit from a lack of the above . the rb25 is certainly no problem to modify , a power fc full replacement computer can be purchased for just over $1000 and you should see 200rwkw with that and the usual exhaust and intercooler mods . Both engines factory ecus will have problems with large amounts of extra power from mods . Best to get it out of the way as soon as possible .

2-3k depending on where you go , what kind of clutch you put in generally auto + conversion seem cheaper than a straight manual my 95 auto 90000km cost 14k