kursed

lol. that was fast. let us know how it goes

siddr20 - I just had to find a new one of those pipes (side suction pipe i believe its called), they have different size nuts on the part that connects to the firewall thread from model to model. Make sure you got the right size one, as I bought one off a 97 model s2 r33 and it didnt fit my 96 series 2 r33!! shithouse.

why dont u contact the guy who offered you 1500 then.

post up some of the key tips! i CBF getting an autosalon magazine..

*group hug for the pain of scraping your precious rims*

scratched a bloody rim when my girl was nattering in my ear while I was trying to park. goddamn it I have never in my life guttered a car, let alone with my brand spankers new wheels. urgh. So now I am on the search for someone to fix the rim. It's just a nasty scratch around about 6" long around the outer rim of one wheel (shadow chrome finish). It did not buckle the rim though it might need to be refinished in the shadow chrome finish. I have so far found the following businesses, does anyone have additions or recommendations? - all mag wheel repairs ingleburn - all aluminium welding chipping norton - Custom wheels Lansvale - bob jane tmart blakehurst - morton and may wheels warwick farm I will take a before and after pic with whomever I use so yall can see their work... Thanks!

do you have any engine parts? I am after a suction side pipe, its a metal pipe that runs out of the firewall on the passenger side to the compressor. It has a small greenish knob on it that is used to fill the aircon system. Please PM or call me if you do. 0413521692

It's called a suction side pipe - its the connecting pipe between the evaporator and the compressor - it has a little port on it that the aircon guys use to fill / test the unit. Seems a previous owner either cut it off or broke it off while doing something. Now Nissan want me to put on my kneepads and bend over for a $453 RUBBER & ALLOY PIPE that I would need to wait for from Japan. Where can I call to find this item second hand? Where are there R33 halfcuts / wrecks / parts places? I have called just jap and 1 or two others but I haven't had any luck so far.

clean those headlights dirty boy

my beefy 33

Every single comment of yours I have seen is f**king stupid. Stop f**king leaving your caps lock on, shut the f**k up and piss off with your constant negativity. You detract from the discussions you post in everytime and it is only to offer another droll idiotic slander at someone or something. STFU.

got it from Ryda. it was the double door pack. can't recall price exactly, but I got it below retail as a mate works there so it wouldn't be that good a guide anyway. Have a look on ebay there are some cheap buys on there (but postage can be be a stinger!)

looks neat. doesn't it get pretty hot in there though?

for those who were interested in how the amps were solidly attached to the crappy back wall - there is a long 18mm thick MDF panel that is screwed into the battery tray and the metal below (keeping in mind there is the fuel tank there so they made very sure the screws went no where near that! this board then has the normal flimsy trim placed over it. then they positioned and screwed in both amps. Now there is no flex at all in the rear wall, now I need to stop the rest of teh boot trim vibrating!

thats hot. how much did the install cost? Also what was done for the lighting? I am thinking of doing some kind of lighting in the boot too

oh and the difference is about 50% more midbass and 80% less door rattles. well worth it in these long assed skyline doors! Shopping? nah man i got another car for bitch duties like that

it takes like 2 / 3 hours per door as the first step is cleaning all the crap off the door skin which takes aaaages. a good wax and grease remover is essential, strip off the plastic that covers the internals of the door, collect as much of the black gunk as possible before using the spray as it makes the gunk run and while it dissolves it, it takes ages to get off each layer. I found the best way was to collect a ball of the goo and keep sticking it to the other bits of gunk to bring it up. then used the spray to clean everything up once the majority of the gunk was off. I then made 6mm MDF panels that roughly fitted all the major service holes in the door, put tape over the hole then placed the panel in that then layered it again. Theres a great tutorial for this on caraudioaustralia.com.au When you start adding the deadener, use gloves as there are a multitude of very sharp corners waiting to fillet your fingertips! overlay each edge with another piece and keep it tight as possible. cover all holes where possible too. no I don't think I want to do that again anytime soon

here are some pics from the deadening process. I did the insides of the door skin, and also the door frame (the bit you can see). lots of layering and those pics were not the finished result, I put more under the joins of the trim and the door skin too. the boot does rattle a bit, you can hear it from the outside - most of the rattle is the rear bar, but its inaudible from the inside. I might deaden the boot lid too soon.

urr I did take some pics as I went along, I am not 100% I have a pic of it finished though. Will have a look through the pics tonight.

well i certainly learned a hell of a lot about car audio in the last few weeks getting this system picked out and installed.... So its all done now - big thanks to craig at hornsby stageco who fabricated the mounts for both amps and tuned the system - and for all the good advice. I ended up doing: - sound deadened every inch of the big arsed skyline doors - bought home made sub box with 2 x 12 type S subs and an alpine monblock amp. - intalled HU / sorted wiring / added splits - found out how shiaser the sub box was once it was in so ditched that and bought a factory one. - bought new splits since the ones that came with the other gear were quite lame. - splits needed amping to really pump, so ordered a pioneer 2 channel from bitaudio.com.au - stage co installed both amps on a custom board behind the subs and hid all wiring and tuned it all A few pics! yes i know its not super custom but this is just how i wanted it - other than opening the boot the car looks like its got bugger all gear in it

same as above - I want to see the surround for a series 2 R33, and pics of them lit if possible! cheers!~~

i'm just kidding fellas - hence the big smiley afterwards in my post hehe I ended up with some pioneer splits with passive crossover unit. Once the system is all sorted and working properly i'll throw some pics online seeyas

thats f**ked. why did you even pay for the damage to be fixed? had you already paid for the full purchase price?

thanks for all the non help - I got it done myself. stiff you jerks