treo

price prod to 15000!!!! urgent sale

bump

its only running 7psi, also got an 'Os Giken' adjustable cam gears, mech boost controler, brand new rear tyres 18/35/265.............. and more cant rembers

Please no idiot comments, this is a geniune sale FOR SALE NISSAN SKYLINE R33 GTST 1993 -98000km -manual, -burgundy -parked off street -sunroof -'Viper' remote start-alarm (viper) -Big intercooler, trust core, unknown end tanks 600*300*90 3inch piping -Blitz pod filter ( hks spare pod) -Tomei 2-way diff, intercooler -3inch full exhaust system custom and a 3.5inch high flow cat -'Whiteline" -sway-bars -Unknown front strut braces -Cusco rear strut braces -Cusco adjustable castor rods -Daiken HDclutch 5000km old -Symmons FR18 alloys -kyb super low shocks and springs -body-kit, gtr front bar, veilside side skirts, wing remove -Momo s/wheel -gauges, boost and water temp -Alpine mp3/cd player, focal 6inch splits 6.5 rear speakers -Uras subframe bushes - darkest higheiest quality legally tinted windows There is more that i cant remeber, could prob give you a better run down if you come down and have a look over the car. Also had its big 100000km service, so the car is road reg in melbourne, been reg since august 2003. Reason for selling is, havent had a licence for the last 17months, and i am fairly tight with money at the moment so i need to sell. currently having problems on getting photos, happy to display the car to anyone interested, email me or call me. calling would be the best way of contact price drop now $15,500ono the car can be arranged to see in Hawthorn where i live. if your interested give me a call on 0405624394, i dont get a chance to check the internet every day so please be pacient or just call me

picture to Timee_32hotmail.com very interested

havent had the cover on for the last year, hasnt been a problem nore have i got my spark plug cover on. Easy access and good for obervation, its only neccessary to stop people fiddling with the cam belt at a glance. There is a round plate that sits over the crank behind the harmonic balanncers that stop the timing belt from sliding forwards and off, are you saying the timing belt normally runs constantly on the inside of the upper timing cover?? anyways problem solved

cheers guys, yeah i have no top timing cover off 'wrxhoon' its been off since i did my water pump, t-belt, tensioner, and thermostat about a year ago. i had completely forgotten that the cas sits on the outside of the upper timing belt cover, that would be the cause then. anyways bought some washers home from work today (i am a mechanic blitz), il see how i go tonight, il find the upper timing belt cover thats has to be somewhere around and all should be well, il match the washers to the thickness of the cover an thumbs up.

Maybe if it had a distributor and coil it could posibly be leads or coil. However you have an individual coilpack for each cylinder. Id be looking at 'Cas' or something in the fuel system, faulty 'fuel pump', when was the last time your fuel filter was changed?

I just complete an install of an 'OS Giken' adjustable cam gear on to the end of my exhaust cam shaft. As you know the 'cam angle sensor (cas)' sits on the outside of the cam gear on the exhaust cam side. Now on the 'OS Giken' adjsuatble cam gear in the centre there are 4 locating wholes (four bolts run through) and a locating pin whole to make sure the cam gear is correctly alligned. The same as all RB cam gears. Around the outside of the 4 locating wholes there are another four securing allen key bolts that alow for the sleve adjustment of the cam gear. My problem is with the 'Cas' and 'Cas housing' ontop of the exhaust adjustable cam gear the 4 securing allen key bolts rub/grind on the 'cas housing'. Basically it makes an awful noise not that ive run it for more that 30seconds, and im wondering if anyone else has expierenced this sort of problem before with this sort of item and how they have over come this? Im not quite sure what i should do? The first option im looking at is placing 1, 2, or maybe three washers under the three locating 'Cas housing' bolts an see if it elivates it enough off the cam gear so the 4 adjusting allen key bolts no longer rub. The doubt i have with this is maybe the 'Cas' wont actually be able to work because its to far away from the locater (half moon at the end of the cam) that it wont run. The other options i have is put the standard itme back on, which i dont really see as an option, or last of all maybe grind a bit of each of the 4 adjusting allen key bolts so they no longer rub on the 'Cas housing'. Anyone with some helpful advice much appreciated because i would like to have it all sorted tommorrow night so mum can have her carpark back. cheers

So where does off road rally fit, wheel to wheel racers/ time trailers. Rally got to be one of the most unforgiving forms of motorsport, aswell as challenging! Great read like it so much i got a print out and have read it to quiet a few mates

So basically if you havent got your PC, NC, NR, IR licence aswell as L2S you cant get import approval for a track car. So is then the option of buying an already rally rego car car here in oz ok for an L2S holder

ring ring rings, do a comp test!

what does the car idle at, what does it idle on start up? Is it higher when its cold or is it just the same when cold as when warmed up. could be something to do with cold start, but thats just a random response, try and be more specific, what mods have been done to the car???

yeah its great when it all comes together cheers guys

put a stock bov on and thats a dam good start

Finally fix the problem! thanks to BHDave and BH_SLO32 i finally fix the problem. There was a bad connection at the Fuel Pump Speed Control Circuit, i pulled it out and sure enough one of the wires was hardly in one of the plugs, fix it and now the cars running like a treat. Now you can here the fuel pump running constantly when you listen carefully for it. It no longer stalls and is running like it always had which is perfect thanks for all your help

BH_SLO32 Cheers its started doing the problem again, with my head in the boot i can here the fuel pump go off for a second the the car runs for about 5 10 seconds. I know exactly the tihing your talking about in the lh inner quarter. About a month ago a new ariel was put into my car, maybe they have ****/ knocked some of the wiring. Ive seen the thing your talking about and its directly behind the ariel by memeory il go out and have a look right now

check to see if your fuel pumps stays on when the car stalls, listen for it with your head next to it. Change your fuel filter also and is your cat in good condition, could be blocked a bit

In my tomei i use Castrol SAF-XA 75W160 i think its about $27 a litre. I originally used some motul stuff however my 2way was really noisy and clunk heaps when i got told it would be one of the quieter 2way's. Also alot of my friends who drift all use penrite limslip which ive been told is good for much cheaper

depending on how stiff you suspension is i would vary your rear camber from that, i drift in my R33 and id have to say if your car is generally well balanced that is the best starting point for drift. A track set up is more ideal for drift/track car setup, otherwise you might as well be drifting whilst racelining mconstantly fighting oversteer

Isnt there japanese kyb's and australian kyb's. I got some jap kyb shocks and springs. Firmer ride and handles much better

they would fit wouldnt they, maybe just some re-wirng

unplug your o2 sensor while idling and see if it idles better, could be your o2

my car also runs at 70deg id think that would be fairly normal

good to see your car is fix, mine seems to be running ok right now. however if done nothing and it seems to idle, i havent driven it any further than a couple times around the block though since i walk to work. My afm is all ok, so i got know dramas there and if i do i got a spare i had on a couple weeks ago.