treo

sigputnik, your turbo inlet leaky, what was there fix just tightened it up or something. That seems pretty wierd to me however if there was a big airleak it would make sense to why you trip took so long cav, i check all my fuses ages ago they are all fine. Cant believe that was making your car stall, mine runs ok with out it even plugged in BHDave, what i ment to say before was i know the wiper motor was not what you ment but thats all i could really see, i got a better idea off what you mean now though. I have a good look for it on the R33 to help kill my curiousity. cheers

Thanks BHDave, il have a good look at it when ive had a proper look at the diaghram. And aslo the only thing i can see thats silver in the back left near the turbo is the wiper motor, and i know thats what you mean but cheers anyways thanks heaps

Sigsputnik, In the R33 gtst the fuel pump is located in the boot, if you open the boot act as though you are trying to access your battery an you will see to the right off the batt a small flat piece of metal held down by 4 screws underneath that is your fuel pump located in the top of yuor fuel tank. If you turn your keys on to ignition but dont start it, it will make it easier to here what it sounds like should be able to here it at the petrol flap if the cars not running or even in the drivers seat if you listen carefully. The way i did it was stick my head right in the boot, so i could still here it operating when the car was running, then while the car was actually idling i could here the fuel pump go of then a second later the car would stall and as it stall yuo could here the pump switching back on. Weird loosing power to the fuel pump for a second, so far know one but BHDave can really tell me anything about the fuel pump speed control circuit and ive got the standard pump so the voltage shouldnt be a problem

Ok i had a good look at quiet a few things on the weekend, yeah thats right about the afm i think mine limits at 2500rpm. It will run if unpluged before started. So the other day i had cleared all the fault codes with a nissan scan tool, so on the weekend i recheck it for fault codes the old fashion way with leds. It came up with nothing, code 55, like predator said codes wont tell me much. Anyways my friend at nissan told me to clean my throttle body out and to adjust base idle again and it may not stall, he seemed to think it was very important to adjust the base idle. I had cleaned my throttle body the other week but never readjusted the base idle, so i tried to however appeared to be fully adjust as low as possible manually. So i adjusted it out a bit to idle at 1400rpm an know my car holds idle, the idle previously was 800rpm at operating temp, so that should have all been fine. I adjusted it back down when warm at what it should be and it began to stall again. So i look into BHDave and Predators advice about the fueling issue, it seems as though BHDave may be onto something, i listen in the boot to see how the fuel pump was operating it was running then all of a sudden for about 2seconds you would here the pump switch off, then as the car would stall the pump was switching back on. So now i need to find out where the fuel pump speed control circuit is exactly, how to fix for the problem, and im really curious as to where this big dropping resistor is in the engine bay is exactly?? And after all that about the last 15 start ups it hasnt stalled, however im not one to ignore the problem so i need to find the fix even if its not doing it now. So anyone with any knowledge of fuel pump speed control circuit would be of much help. Thanks guys

has it got a standard blowoff valve?? the right plugs in it

Pics to [email protected]

The ecu will compensate for know afm meter signal but will run in fault mode, hold idle like a pig but it will run. Unplug your AFM and start your car, and see what happens.

Cheers guys thanks for your input paulr33 You car should run without the airflow meter, it wont really drive but will hold idle. I always thought car will stall without afm but when we tried it on my friends R33 the other day ran fine at idle, also i had a spare an chucked it on straight away an nothing. predator Cheers for your input, im glad your thinking fuel. It seems logical to me also, what about fuel regulator being faulty??? Could this be the cause. I know what you mean by the fuel pump also, they have a tendency of shitting themselves especially if its buzzing becomes louder. The fuelpump is the standard item and im pretty sure its not the problem, however touch wood. Il have to do a fuel pressure test which i should have already done however i dont have the gauge. BHDave Thanks thats another logical possibilty 'fuel pump speed control circuit', something i know very little about but definately worth looking at it tommorow. Thanks for the explanning. However my only doubt being when the car stalls you can still here the fuel pump buzzing away when you put your head next to the tank cos the ignition still on. However it could stop for a couple of secondsthen run on again straight after, hence being faulty the 'fuel pump speed control circuit'. Thanks guys

Does anyone no out there if R33 non turbo and turbo cars share the same 'Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)'. I got some issues with my car it wont hold idle, it stalls.Ive eliminated most other possibilitie however to work out weather its this i wouldnt mind trying someone elses and my mate with a non turbo said i could try his. They have different intakes so im hoping they still share the same IAC valve. Help much appreciated!!!

Further investigatrion, and still no fix. My friend of mine who works at a nissan brought there scan tool around, the results. Nothing??? Whilst doing that i check all vacums lines and cooler piping and still nothing. There is nothing in my mind that can be obvious, there was no fault codes in my ecu, all the components i had some doubt about all were operating with in there range with correct voltage, and the graph there scan tool can display over time all appeared as normal, except maybe my o2 sensor was not a 100% but as would any o2 sensor that is still the original from factory. Also it should run even without that. Im able to run the car with my foot opening the throttle as it tries to stall. So i could test all components at operating temp with the nissan scan tool as supposed too. Also if i sit there reving it anywhere above 2 grand but more like 4 to 5 grand for longer than 15 seconds, the car can hold an idle from anywhere from 10 seconds to say 45 seconds at most after its back to idle and my foot stops operating the throttle. Anyone with some insite that would be great, another thought i had of what it may possible be is the 'Idle Air Control Valve' however it sort of make sense, i dont know how to check diagnose this correctly. Has anyone got some idea? feeback appreciated.

yeah and my ecu standard

cheers il pull out my ecu, i thought it may of been on the other side but seemed silly cos it should be quick and easy to extract codes yeah it seems like there a big air leak intercooler pipe orsomething il have a better look around, the other thing i just sort of remembered is a couple of times its stayed on for a minute or so. which leads me thinking its a component rather than a vacum leak

As the topic said, my R33gtst starts then immediately stalls. The car will stay on if i play with acellerator pedal, though as soon as i take my foot off when the revs come down it stalls. Ive check it for spark and injector pulse when stalling and its all fine. Fuel pump is buzzing away fine, i tried starting it without the airflowmeter pluged in and stalls at the same time an stays on if i play with accell pedal. I had a spare airflow meter, chuck it in thinking it would solve the problem but hasnt. IS it most likely the TPS? I dunno but im a little unsure how to check my fault codes, ive removed my LH kickpannel to reveal my ecu. Im aware i need to put it in self diagnostic mode (mode 3) however cant see any led's or somewhere to select which mode to go into. Do i have to remove my ecu to do this because i cant seem to see anything on the side of the ecu that face out into the car. Any help would be great with extracting the codes, not what each code number represents but just how to extract them ive already found heaps of info on that just no luck with now getting the codes

Im currently about to put my car for sale if quick sale i will definately be intersested in looking at your gtst is it manual?

ive had mine badged also i didnt think you could just get the badge. How much is it and can you purchase it from nissan i suppose?

bump

i got my os giken adjustable cam gear $120 brand new in box privated on Firesport.com, i two used locktite however left my top cam cover off. I dont see this to be a problem dont live near salty water and i know not to put my hands there so i see there to be know real problem

sorry the link for the picture does work

R33 Gear Boot Surround Drivers side control pannel surround pm me if you can be of some help thanks

have you check the plugs? how long did you run your car while it was missing?

Thanks Linton, thats a good point about extra bracing and a rollcage would equally weigh to the rear if setup correctly a little time and research i think it could be achieved. Thanks Steve, I know the Rb20 powered 32 is proven to be a good drift plateform, like you said there is plenty of Aussie winning events in these cars. However i know the money is $$$$ and could be spent rebuilding the rb20, however the consept of doing the conversion is too exciting. Hey also Isnt the diff ratio determined by the teeth on crown wheel and pinion?? If i could i would be setting the 2way centre up in the R32 housing or even buy a non turbo R32 Diff and housing i think they have a 4.44:1. So my diff ratio wouldnt be the R33 4.11 it would be either 4.33 or 4.44, thats if i bought a non turbo r32 diff and housing

Thanks Linton, thats a good point about extra bracing and a rollcage would equally weigh to the rear if setup correctly a little time and research i think it could be achieved. Thanks Steve, I know the Rb20 powered 32 is proven to be a good drift plateform, like you said there is plenty of Aussie winning events in these cars. However i know the money is $$$$ and could be spent rebuilding the rb20, however the consept of doing the conversion is too exciting. Hey also Isnt the diff ratio determined by the teeth on crown wheel and pinion?? If i could i would be setting the 2way centre up in the R32 housing or even buy a non turbo R32 Diff and housing i think they have a 4.44:1 which would be good

anyone got some construcvtive input to give feel free

i too have L2S

what moods to the engine, rwc or rego?? pics would be helpfull