0HR-30T

Yep,all parts and labour costs....ut don't forget if you go that far with the engine,you should budget a couple of grand for a decent turbo to make use of it!

Depends how far you want to go with the build-up.I spend $4500 on my long motor,built for 25psi all day If you just want a basic rebuild,you could probablly halve that.

I didn't say it couldn't be done,I said if you must have an RB20,then a Skyline is a much better base. RB20>Pintara conversion does not require engine mount mods either.

Wasn't it OS Giken that made the twin cam heads?

I know you don't want to hear this.........but you're wasting your time! If it's an RB20 you want,then start with a Skyline as the base,not a Pintara. If you want to hang on to your one,a CA18DET would be much easier (bolt in)

You're not thinking of the older S20 twin camers are you?

Hmmmm,yet HR30's had GT badges on them....

Cheers for the reply.Interesting stuff.So from what I can gather,the TO4S comp wheel equiped GT series turbos are not much better (if any) than an old school TO4? except with slightly better responce time,due to the ball bearing core. Or would that be negated by the comp/turbine inballance? Pitty I bought my TO4S wheel'd turbo 4 years ago..... oh well

Yeah,that's the back pressure that stalls turbo's.As I said above "All that may achieve is not stalling the turbo badly." At least you were looking after it in one way

Too easy!

not again.........

Actually,there isn't any clutch plates in a viscous diff.......is there?

Disco-Thanks for your reply. I've given up trying to keep up with the different names everyone gives to the GT series.The turbo(s) I refer to are TO4S comp wheel (48 trim) ,flowing 44lbs/min,rated at 400hp and 440hp with 0.64 and 0.86A/R respectivly.So yes,it seems we're refering to the same unit. Now I'm no turbo expert,but I'd like to discuss this. If this turbo is not built well,and requires high exhaust gas speeds/more revs to get it up on song,that's fair enough....But,wouldn't this just mean less use of the wastegate for control.I mean if it needs more shaft speed to work,the wastegate wouldn't need to start opening as early/by-passing as much gas,etc to limit shaft speed,so would this really matter? If anything,the requirment for higher shaft speeds to generate good boost would ensure that these turbo's would be efficient at high revs(?) Also,the issue of exhaust housings/wheels being a restriction at high revs,and/or generating "detination friendly" egt's...surely this wouldn't be the case (at least) with the 0.86a/r housing...on say a 2.0L engine? or do you mean the actual turbine wheel creates too much turbulance at high speeds? or am I no where near it? I notice that some "GT30"s use a TO4S comp wheel (56 trim) and 55lbs/min flow,with 0.82 (84 trim) exhaust and rated at 500hp.... still with a TO4S wheel? do these turbos share the same disadvantages you speak of as the "GT25"s? And just to confuse things (well,me) further,there's a "GT25" that uses a GT35 comp wheel,flowing 44lbs/min-(same as the above mentioned 'bad' GT25) uses a 76 trim exhaust wheel( same as above too) and rated at 400hp????????? so that brings me back to the same question again.....can the TO4S wheels, (and thus equiped turbos) be that bad? Thanks for your time

Disco,can the 7 blade TO4S wheels really be that bad? The smaller GT25's are rated at 400hp and 440hp,and aren't turbo's "rated" at 1 bar? Surely these comp wheels could efficently spit out 20psi odd,so you'd be looking at quite a good turbo??? :confused:

Hehe,I like the way this man thinks!

I was forgetting that yours is an HR30. I guess $2500 could do a bit to the old L20ET too,but anyway you have an RB.... A "Boost spike" is usually refered to as when the turbo comes onto boost,and the wastegate fails to "catch" it. eg-if your intended boost was 20psi,and by the time the wastegate opened,and by-passed enough gas to limit the turbine speed,the boost had risen to 24psi. My old HR30 coupe had 4.11:1 diff gears.As far as I know it was original....

Ahhhhh Now I see.Otherwise known as solinoids If you (machg) buy the Jaycar kit I'm talking about,then it comes with new solinoids.Either a 2 door or 4 door kit--has 2 or 4 solinoids,and can be hooked up to your existing system....

Dear oh dear,why do people have to bullsH!t about there cars? UNLESS this guy has done some major work on it since purchasing it--and it doesn't look like it from the pics--then it's near stock.....It's the late model high comp engine,with the old T3 on it.Runs 14psi (well,used to) and has an intercooler that's surposedly off a light truck (torque-liner or such) exhaust and air filter.....that's it.

Just sent/got a sms from him.Seems the DR ran a best of 13.9!

Forgive me for this....but what the hell is a "locking motor"??????? :confused:

Heeeeeeeey!!!! that's my mate's old car! RSX,did you have a look at it? It's a bloody nice example of a DR30.It was sold for 10K I think? (or was it 9K?) Looks crap without the 9's on the rear

Your ecu may stop the party at 19psi,but that doesn't mean the injectors have enough fuel to support 19psi!!! Not to mention skyrocketing inlet temps.Both these things can kill a motor quick smart! Backing off the throttle gently has no relation to boost spikes what so ever....All that may achieve is not stalling the turbo badly. There is better ways to set up/test your combo,yes $2500 spent on the original FJ20 would also make it 'seriously quick'

:uhh: You realise that is a very, VERY BAD idea!!!!!!!!! :bonk:

1. More than oil seal me thinks! 2. I'm sure the L20's had T3's stock,so I'd go a T3 style turbo....maybe an RB25 BB (R33 Skyline) ,or an older stlye water cooler T3... 3. How handy are you with the spanners? It's not real hard... 4.???? Ghostrider would be the man for that one 5. As RSX said....or buy a Jaycar central locking kit for $40 and use a solinoid from that.

Not so much "broken",as the LSD's buggerd.