Guilt-Toy

The Q45 AFM has less voltage resolution then the Z32. My car has maxed the AFM out at around 350rwkw where a z32 can go a fair bit further

When i got my car it was auto and i loved it. I regret changing it to manual to be honest. I have 2 x R33 RB25DET gearbox's that i am willing to swap for with a whole conversion kit for a high performance build auto setup. I want to go back to auto cos i want to run my low 10sec pass!! Auto's are great fun to drive when it comes to turbo's but you can have a bit more fun in a manual but it will cost you tyres and trouble from the cops in the long run. So yeah i really think its up to you and what you can afford. if you can only afford a auto then go for it the cars are still great fun to drive.

Plazmaman all the way. look great and they are easy to work with. Go plazmaman. Locally made as well.

I have removed the mesh before and noticed bad idle and dropped my fuel economy. I also know of people who were having major fuel economy issues and they replaced the mesh which fixed the problem. Leave it in there. you dont need to change it.

your going to have to replace the walbro pump and the 555cc injectors. they wont cut it. You should be going for the T04Z or the GT3582r For track / drift you will need the JUN pump with the crank collar. Standard head studs are okay but if your going to be tracking and drifting get ARP studs if you do use standard studs then buy brand new ones from nissan. the ones i got cost me $80 or so. 2.5 hot and 3 inch cold does my car fine Z32 AFM will be the one for the task. the V8 AFM will just start to run out of resolution. Playing with the head will never hurt... but i dont think its really needed The crazy japs have put 500rwkw through a rb25det box.. just dont smash the gears when changing and they can last a while. (Just Jap have BRAND NEW RB25det gearbox's for sale and quoted me $2,800) cheap as!! thats all i can really help with... i dont want to suggest cams or head gasket etc as mine are all standard except for the acl cometic 3 layer head gasket.

they have a heavier spring then r33. sounds about right

hahahahaa yes!!! it does too!!! BTW: if you look carefully you can see the HKS on the rear housing right where that bolt is.

the best thing about the auto r33 is how smooth they are. they change gears very nice etc etc. I have had a ecu in my car when it was auto and the gear changes were a bit savage compared to stock ecu. id like to know how a emanage handles it.

your probly better off going for the gizzmo version from your local autobarn store. for around $400 they have been installed in many r33's with power fc's

i decided to use the stock nissan rb25 oil pump on my rb30det with the crank collar mod and have had no issues at all!

it does not matter about the ecu. its ecu independant.

i was told from a few different people that stock injectors can get up to 250rwkw. i just never seen it before i got 240rwkw from stock injectors before and i had a crappy fuel pump (walbro) with a decent pump and reg at a high pressure im sure it is do-able. (and a happy dyno of course)

if your not going to make more then 220rwkw then dont bother.

hahahaa thanx man =) should hear it on 26psi thats where it changes from sweet to angry

hey bud Sorry to hear you got defected. May i ask where you got done? were you doing anything silly? was this last friday night ?? Anyway you could return the car back to stock OR get a engineers certificate and emissions test done. I could try and help you with the emissions test but there is no gaurentee you will be able to get it pass with your computer as I have only known of Autronics & Power FC & Standard computer to get through. You will also need to get a engineers certificate for the intercooler no matter what (if you keep it on) You will also need to go to a exhaust shop who are approved to get noise tests done and get one of those. mine cost me $35 and i can help you in that department as well. There are 2 ways to do it - go back to stock will cost a crapload OR get it fully engineered and approved. if you love your car that much id start trying to get the emissions test pass and then go for the engineers certificate. If you want to get your car to pass the emissions test then i may be able to have a look at it and advise you on what you need to do before you go down to do the test. I have my emissions test and the poilice are never interested in looking at the rest of the car for faults etc etc when they see it. if your not driving like a dickhead they will not defect you. Il reply to your PM and send you my phone number. Give me a call - i live in newcastle too

he might have both models in stock

are you going to pull the engine appart? you will need to take the crank out and get a machine shop to machine the snout down so the collar will fit. For drifting its a must. hitting rev limiter all the time will jerk the pump and eventually crack it and stuff your engine (i have yet to see it though)

how well does the PFC controll the auto ? i heard you dont get as much life from the auto because the computer does not "fart" the engine (sounds like a fart from the exhaust)

yeah i didnt think it was the tuners fault. i heard good things about this tuner in particular so if anyone reads this thread dont think he is a bad tuner. he is a good tuner he just does not know about the brown plug in the r33's to lock it in drive. (neither did i to be honest) I am willing to bet the tune is good and the car would be fun to drive.

this gives the AFM a more reliable reading. removing the mesh will give you a rough idle and will also give you bad fuel economy.

its a engine out and crank out of engine deal because you have to machine down the surface to fit the crank collar. RAJAB told me he never does the collar upgrades on his cars because he thinks the reason why this happens is because of crank float or something similar. I still think its good insurance and i did the upgrade on my engine.

A auto with that much power on a dyno in second gear at full noise will come very close to jumping off the dyno ESPECIALLY when it changes to third gear. I think it was the way the dyno run was done. The only way we are going to know for sure is to get the owner of the car to tell us how the car drives on the street. does it pull hard from 2500rpm onwards all the way or does it feel dead and no ones home untill 5500rpm.

full power in third gear was using 10 - 12 psi as you can see where the power flats out on the power curve the boost went down to that level. I think this tune may be good and if it is this car should feel pretty quick on the street.

can you tell me what speed does your car change from second to third?? from memory i think it was at least around 120 - 130ks an hour right where the big power increase comes in and goes straight up. I think i may be right on this one.. the only thing that confuses me a bit is the boost curve... may be boost controller related or maybe he did not back off the accelerator too much to bring it up to speed for the final power figure. *shrug* i am open to any comments if anything thinks i am wrong. i have had a auto r31 skyline rb30e on the dyno and when it changed from first to second it felt like the dyno was going to top over the car nearly jumped off it (i was not driving the owner was i was just using the controlls) and the way i had to get the power run properly was to get him to drive it to 100ks an hour and then start the run from there in 3rd gear. Worked well.. 105rwkw

hang on a second.... This is a auto yeah ?? then wait.. that graph may not be what it looks like... Think about it.. it starts at 70k's an hour and goes all the way up to 170. Now correct me if i am wrong but a auto CANNOT do that in second gear. my car was auto when i got it. So i know. I think what has happened is that the way the guy did the dyno run. that long flat spot would be where he backed it off to change gears and then when it settled in the gear he floored it again. If you look in the middle of the line you can see it was going up a little then back down again.. that was done with the accelerator. If the car did have a curve like that it would feel sooo sluggish till about 5000rpm and then come on very hard. Its just the way he did the power run i wreckon.. I dont think its because of the tune. it could be but looking at that there must have been a gear change somewhere and this tuner may have been just looking to get a max power print out for his customer because max power is where its at these days!! lol Seems soo easy for people to out and blame the tuner all the time.. tuner this tuner that.. rah rah rah.. maybe it was his fault for letting a crappy print out like that from his shop he could have done a ramp from 110ks an hour to 180 and get a better curve.. BUT i cant say that for sure there could be many reasons for why he did it this way.