Guilt-Toy

The engine light can flash for 3 difference scenario's 1: knock going above the previously set level (setup on PFC laptop software) 2: The AFM voltage gets maxed out or close to maxing out 3: Injector duty goes higher then the set amount. Usually the knocking is a very quick flash but this is programable within the Apexi power FC software. When dyno tuning i was told (from a mate who owns the dyno) he said to set the knock level when tuning to 40 and tune the car to show no more knock then that then set the warning to 60 so that the engine light flash's at 60 then he tells the owner of the car to back off the accelerator if he gets the warning light flashing - that way you know that knock is getting to a higher level for whatever reason and that something could be wrong.... If you get slow flash's of the engine light then usually it could be because the injector duty is maxing out (do a log max of the injector duty) or the AFM voltage is getting maxed out (you can log that as well in monitor) Its hard to explain but say your tuner tunes the car to go to 90% duty cycle on the dyno and the car only runs 18psi of boost and he sets your injector warning to go off at 96% - your on a full on 4th gear hit in the freezing cold weather your turbo spools to 22psi - that would mean that the tune would go to a lower part of the map.. I know on my tune i changed the numbers that go lower on the map to a richer / fatter tune with less timing because IF the turbo spools enough load to go to those area's its going to need to run richer (or it may still be OK at the same numbers but you cant be sure because you have not tested it) - this area may go over the 96% injector duty that the warning was set to which will make the lights go off - it can also be running in a state where its very lean and can cause your engine to go kaboom! if you tune your car to go say 5psi higher then you plan on driving it on the street and set the warnings to go off at around those levels then you know its a bit more safer - thats the difference between a $200 touch and go power up tune compared to a $600 - $1000 tune where they pay attention to detail - you could save 3 hours of dyno time and not cost as much but you never know how good the tune actually is. The same goes for the AFM voltage - if the map gets to the last line on the map then your going to get the warning because its maxed out - you could be only running 1psi more and its all OK or you could be running 10psi more which can cause issues. Some people run standard RB25 AFM's and tune the cars to run huge power levels and just tune the last line to run good safe mixtures to the maximum boost your boost controller is set to (never done it myself and dont know much at all about doing it this way as ive got a 90mm V8 AFM and at 16psi i still got more room on my load maps) this could be bad because you have to switch off the AFM warning. so next question is what happens if you get a big boost spike ? your answer is as good as anyones... (i aint 100% sure about this last comment as i have never done it that way before) If your tuner uses the power FC software you can tell him to disable the warning for injector duty and AFM warnings all together so the engine light will only flash on knock to remove confusion because i know as well as as anyone when your on full noise you are trying to keep the car in a straight line and notice the light but dont pay attention to how its flashing as it could result in a accident or something... So yeah when it comes to warning lights you need to totally understand how the power FC works and which warning you are seeing. I guess it just pays to pay someone good decent money for a tune that you know that all these scenario's have been taken care for just for piece of mind - i spent 6 hours road tuning my car and when i put it on the dyno I was pretty impressed with how it was done. hope this helps

Hey mate. here is a post that i posted in a older ACL Forgies thread when someone asked about my setup. Hmmm i just noticed that the conrods have gone down in price recently.. I got them cheaper then that though through my engine builder. ----------------- I just the ACL Race series pistons in my car for the RB30DET with 25 head and they are good. they are acually a MAHLE piston imported from the usa by ACL because it costs too much to make forgies in australia. I think MAHLE are the same brand as ROSS ? my compression test came up at 120 in all cyl so its a little lower then before but good for high boost =) i used the precision motorsport conrods in my engine as well which they all come out of the same factory in china (scat eagle rah rah) they do well for what they are (can handle 700rwhp) without any issues url for my conrods CONRODS LINK Precision H-Beam Forged Rods - Nissan Skyline RB30/ Holden VL Commodore (set of 6) $1,150.00AUD (inc GST) $1,045.45AUD(ex GST) $1,020.00AUD (inc GST) $927.27AUD(ex GST) Forged Conrods are a must for a bullet proof rebuild on your turbocharged engine. This allows the stress to be taken off the bottom end under high rpm and high boost. Of course forged pistons are not essential, but are highly recomended. Precision Motorsport rods are manufactured from certified 4340 steel, vacuum degassed to remove impurities, and multistage heat treated. Each forging is X-rayed, and shot peened to relieve stress, and all surfaces are 100% machined. H-Beam Connecting Rods Feature: NEW 4340 Certified Forged Steel Rod ARP 5/16 2000 capscrew bolts standard Silcone Bronze bushings for floating pins Precision alignment sleeves positively locate the rod cap, eliminating cap walk Packaged in weight matched sets end to end +/- 1 gram Rated for upto 750 horsepower (Same as the limit of the factory RB30 Crankshaft)

Dude why do you come onto these forums ask a question get a answer from a mod then doubt what he says ??? Turn the boost down.

Yeah she did about 4 years ago now.. its still dinted.. if you look carefully on the drivers door you can see it =( Its like a permanent reminder of how she f**ked me over and emptied my bank account but never even paid me back to fix my car... i should fix it myself im sick of seeing it! i wonder how much the dint men charge.... should get a quote myself

I got this head that i want gone from my mates garage - its located in Newcastle NSW It came off a working engine with a blown head gasket would suit a rebuild OR if you were desperate you could just whack it on but not recomended Would suit someone who has a cracked head or someone who wants a spare incase or someone planing a rb30det build (get this head done then swap all your gear over when engine is ready to go on) Looking for $200 pickup or swap for a bee-r rev limiter or ebc or something similar. bare head only - has valves and valve springs fully intact. selling because i purchased it for parts that i did not need anyway and the bits got sold here and there. Dont have any other head parts so dont message me asking for some they are all sold.

Please read the rules - whats the location of this engine ? what comes with the engine ? is manifolds and turbo provided with injectors and coils etc etc Thanks

thats a good idea.. maybe i can find a front door for where my ex kicked it how much was the door?

i got 2 x r33 wheels for $130 (has tyres that you can burn if you like) Central Coast

there are 2 types of gaskets.. there is one that is completly rubber and one that has metal inside so when you replace it get the one with metal inside so this wont happen again. Common problem.

The plasmaman plenum uses the stock standard bottom half its just the top that you buy www.gtr.com.au has them for sale.

use synergy 8000 its just as good which is just down the road at the mobil anyway.

Free tunes ---!! WIN!

$279.00 for the controller and shift light from Autobarn and they have to order it in.

my tacho dont work.. it sits at 8000rpm on idle and then might go down to 4000rpm when it feels like it and it moves around and flickers sometimes it does a whole 360... pretty funny but i want to fix it too

So now i know all about the product where do i buy one from and how much are they ?

try and adapt the rubber if you can if not then you might have to remove it. as long as the pump is mounted in there ok and the wires cannot short out in anyway then you should be ok. Dont worry about the round thing on your current pump because if you have a fuel reg it will be okay anyway

so where are you confused ?

take pics and post them.

my luck is soo bad that if i left anything to a "hope it wont happen" it WILL happen =) Id rather be safe then dead in this situation

it would be pretty bad if you got a spark in the fuel tank

How much are these systems worth to buy ? and where do you get them from? I want one.. anyone selling one?

15deg btdc i believe.. put it in the middle thats normally correct... then take it somwhere without boosting it to get it checked properly.

Dont listen to them.. we will look after you mate... my mate is selling a R32 gtst in good condition for $9000 aus if your interested to have a look at it when you get here.. its as gosford too

Its been done heaps before mate. There is a bit of mucking around to get it right... You would be better off dropping a RB25DET into the R32 and be done with it.. The standard r32 drive train would be fine except for the manual gearbox's are allways the weak point in a R32. Go the rb25det much better conversion IMO

Lifters sold. GTR Pump sold pending payment. will sell the bare head for $200 pickup