Guilt-Toy

R&R comes in from air flow.. i had a slightly bigger turbo on my rb25 and hit r&r at 9psi. you can drive the car off boost without too much hassle though... try dropping the boost down to 5 or 6 psi to start with and see how it goes.

so.. one thing you should get stuck in your head when it comes to this ecu... say it out loud 20 times and you will never forget it.... Press F4 to store it. F4it to store it. x20. then say it another 20 times. thing is with this ecu / software you must press f4 to send any changes you have made to the map or in the software to be saved. Don't laugh... it took me losing a tune before i finally got it stuck in my thick head if you are unsure if you have stored it or not, press f4 and store it anyway... it only takes 2 seconds to do a store and it does not hurt the ecu to store it 100 times in a day. hope this hint helps. cheers

get the ecu setup and working, and spend some time in the cruise maps to start with, tune it all the way up to around 120kpa.

well the software is very different from all other platforms that i have seen. once you know where everything is its pretty good. i never use the fast tuner... let us know how you go with it.

so he has other cars there with the same ecu and same injectors but there are no issues ??? ooooo i love head f**ks like this. wish it was me. i would not be changing the ecu i would be trying to find whats causing the problem. never give up

it has to be something to do with the tune / setup in the ecu running those injectors properly.

its not because its wasted spark. even the plug in vipec / link is using wasted spark and people are running massive power on those, ive seen waste spark pushing over 1500hp with no issues on really dirty engines

good work. They tried another ecu.. i will put the issue down to being the tune in the ecu!

yes i am running the ID1000s with the resistor pack removed, 1000cc is enough for me with -9's. you dont have to run ID1000s you just need to remove your current setup and test it with a stock setup to see if this is the issue or not. what turbo are you using to need more then 1000cc ???? even with e85 that is quite a bit of power.

its a process of elimination! if the miss fire goes away with the standard setup then you know where the issue is now don't you ? maybe there is a problem in the injector installation ??? the reason why i am thinking this is because i had the SAME issue with my car, same ecu... found the injectors were the issue! put in the stock injectors and the miss fire went away! it only miss fired on load as well, normal driving was fine and they were only 550cc in size. now i am running a nice set of ID1000cc injectors.

Matt: how are you going? did you manage to buy an ECU yet ? the ecu comes with a tuning cable, and the software is available from the web site and it is easy to connect and work with. let me know how you go.

I am 100% sure the issues you are having has nothing to do with the ecu, don't you think the plugin application you have purchased has been tested extensively before it was released??? i remember Anna had one in her R33 GTST wayyyy back in the day and since then there has been thousands of units sold. tbh the ECU will work on any car perfectly if there are no issues with your setup MY suggestion to you is to rip out those injectors and put in a set of stock ones just to see if this could be causing you some strife! put the fuel the injector system back to standard maybe something silly has been done in the injector install and it is causing you problems! (this also means going back to the standard un molested wiring using the stock resistor pack)

then the timing can be out up to 10deg

the first thing you need to do is learn how to set the ignition timing properly. NEVER use the white loop on the wiring harness. you must remove the coil, then tape a coil lead from the coil to the plug, then connect the timing light to the coil lead, on #1 of course. then you need to calibrate the ignition offset to be correct.

the first thing you need to do is learn how to set the ignition timing properly. NEVER use the white loop on the wiring harness. you must remove the coil, then tape a coil lead from the coil to the plug, then connect the timing light to the coil lead, on #1 of course. then you need to calibrate the ignition offset to be correct.

its AUX 1, set it to gp output. Condition 1 and 2 - (OR 3) SC 1: rpm> 1400 SC 2 rpm< 4000 SC 3 map< 180 start with this and then fine tune it to how you like it. basically this is setup so its off on idle, then at 1400rpm to 4000rpm it will be on until the map goes over 180kpa where it will switch it off. hope this helps

i was hoping to get 340rwkw out of the -9s with my rb30dett on 98 pump gas

its an adaptronic. it can handle the low ohms injectors, unlike its competitors plug in versions. do it.

put a set of stock injectors in it and see if you can get rid of the miss fire first.

it would be a awesome street setup! even with the small rear housing

x3... happened to me also... i upgraded to id1000's i tried everything to fix the issues, even using liquid steel on the injector to try seal it up while i waited for the new injectors to arrive, no good so i drove it around leaking for a few days.

lets just say that the Dirt got someone's attention... and he will be back for another visit this week id say

he just came for a visit, but some big changes could be on the cards soon

good luck

like i said, if you are prepared to start again, then just reset the power fc and start from scratch. or you can just fine tune your cruise map and be done with it.