Guilt-Toy

so you set the vct option in the power fc software to 4500 ?

i would try putting some petrol in the cyl and put a rag over the spark plug hole and turn the engine over with the key to try and spit all the oil out of the cyl into the rag... cleaning the plugs should be ok.. clean them in petrol btw hydrolic lock can break conrods.. seen it happen before.

i think my head gasket has something to do with it.. its 2mm i think

I am wondering when would be the best time in the rpm range to turn on NVCS ? I have it set to 4000rpm at the moment and i think that is a bit too late.... Does anyone know what the best combination would be ? i do lots of freeway driving so would it be bad to have it turned on for long periods of time on the freeway if i set it to 2500rpm that would mean it will be on all the time when driving on the freeway... if its not good then i could set it to 3200rpm or something.... anyone have any information or experience on this ?

i compression tested my engine 800km after it was built and i got a reading of 120 in each cyl. yes it is a bit low in compression but that good thing about that is that its safe to run high boost and high ignition timing so the only difference you will notice to a engine with 160 - 170 compression is the driveability off boost (mine is a 3 litre so its still really good anyway) and you can run more boost and more timing then they can...

I dont think you can do it very easily because the 26 uses a completly different sensor / injector system so if your using a power fc you will need to sell it all and run a 26 loom and computer. unless you spend lots of money and time to get it going but you will have to do that with a 26/30 as well... if your using a aftermarket computer thats wired in then just rewire it and away you go.

i can see how the exaust side with a small exaust could cause knock but when your talking a engine that has a top mount extractor manifold and a 3" pipe with a external gate the turbo is a bit far away from the engine plus you got the 3" pipe and the external gate pipe moving air away from the engine..... hmmmm if this is the case then im screwed. my 3" pipe is nearly hitting the air con pipes as it is... i dont even think a 3.5 " would fit with my exaust manifold.. then again ive changed manifolds since then but still. i dont want to make it bigger i still have to pass the noise test for my engineers certificate.

id like to hear the full story on what happened to the car etc is it all ok?

I can sell you a full working set that has been soaking in oil for 6 months for $250. phone me 0412417579 - this is for a rb25det - i took them out because i thought they were the issue and when i put the other set in it made no difference since then the engine has been rebuilt which fixed the noise.

6428 still sounds a little too low to me... im sure i was reving it to 7000rpm

what computer is this rb30det running? can you take a screen shot of the ign map and post it ? fuel map too if you can but not really needed

I cant see this being correct at all. I am pretty sure those runs were done in 4th gear hitting rev limiter 7000rpm when i backed off... if that is true then a extra 2500rpm would mean the car would do 220km/h plus in 4th gear.. i dont think it would no way

Are you trying to say the engine wont make that much power without knocking?? i need a fuel pump upgrade and boost controller upgrade before i chase anymore then 320rwkw anyway and im not spending anymore money for at least 2 years

hahahaa =) not bad for a street tune.. i did not touch the tune on the dyno i only used it for 30 minutes to run it up and check the tune and everything was fine.. I just wanted to put the power figure to paper... was not using shootout mode... if this saturday is cooler i might run it up again with more boost see what happens ohhh it was boiling hot in the workshop.. the dyno sensor was in the air (no where near the engine bay) and it was reading 38 deg so i was not really interested in pushing it anymore

I got a head from a working R33 GTST for sale.. The head comes bare head only with cams and cam wheels and lifters (which have been soaking in oil for the last 6 months) $350 In good condition just needs a clean. R32 GTR Oil pump - Hot washed and very clean in good working condition (came off gtr engine) $120 delivered Apexi Twin Chamber BOV - been cleaned and in very good condition comes with the adapter plate to bolt straight onto the R33 GTST BOV position $130 Mallory mechanical water temp gauge very good quality gauge $80 Brand new in box mechanic Oil Temp gauge - new never used $65 RB25DET plenum (top half only) $70 RB25DET Top mount extractors - has small crack easy to repair $150 2 x R33 gtst 16" wheels with tyres (not legal) $120 Stuff located on the central coast and newcastle 0412417579 call me for any questions pics available on request

mine has a 3" exaust and it does not cause me any issues.. i am looking for around 320 - 350rwkw

dudes give me a break lol I street tuned the car myself and then hired my mates dyno (for a very good price) and he was not even there to help me set the dyno up (took me 15 mins how to work out to get the ramp runs working properly) hehehe its been over a year since ive operated a dyno last and i forgot! it was 7000rpm when i backed off - i backed off when it hit limiter. keep in mind that was only 15psi (engine can do 25psi cos of low compression) and it was 38 deg in the room SOOO hot. so i did not like pushing the engine sooo hard.. i let it cool down a bit and ran this number which is pretty good but i backed off cos it was knocking over 50 because it was wayyy tooo hot.

Mine seems to hold 1600lb most of the way

I got 2 x cams for rb25det with cam gears you can have complete for $170 0412417579

i will swap for a gt35r with .82 rear. phone me 0412417579

You have 2 options - the datalogit from NZ or the Apexi Power FC software with dongle.. i have used the apexi power FC one many times and find it really good.. cant comment on the Datalogit as ive never used it. you will need one of those to get it to work on a car computer

hahahaa aids?? you can only get it once

how about a datsun 1600? a mate of mine has one that he would be willing to swap for a set of nismo 740cc injectors for a s15 ($500 from nengun)

I got my new engine built and I was told it was going to have 8.8:1 compression but when i compresson tested it i got a reading of 120 in each cyl. Now correct me if i am wrong but that is pretty low as my old stuffed engine had 150 in each cyl and that was around 8.3:1 or abouts (stock rb30e pistons) So my question is can you convert that psi reading in the cyl to a compression ratio ? (was done warm with throttle open) I would like to know what compression ratio it is.. looks to me that its in the 7's.. would that be right ? I noticed the cometic head gasket looked like a shim plate. around 2mm so maybe thats why its ssooo low... so how do i know the compression ratio of this engine? the engine builder said 8.8:1 but i dont think its there. I dont really mind that its low because im going to add another 10psi boost and it will be fine on pump gas.. might try 25psi cheers

how are you going to shut the bonnet? =)