Guilt-Toy

No it shouldnt be a issue. If anything you should get more power as in the R33 the auto ecu ran a little leaner then the manual which gives you more power (not sure about r32 but it should work) Remember the auto is controlled by another ECU.

You can borrow 4 spare lifters that i have from a spare head for a TEST if you like. As long as you promise to give them back when your finished (same ones) pm me if you need em - only thing is they are in Newcastle but this could help - thought i would offer.

Thanks !!! =)

long trips on highway would keep the engine cooler then long trips in traffic. if you can keep the car above 50km/h as much as possible then it should not over heat in the cool temps we got atm. Just make sure the temp gauge does not get anywhere near the top. Should be ok to drive unless its very hot and your driving in traffic for longer then 20 mins.

Ok Guys... On sunday we started pulling the engine out to do 1: restrictor 2: clutch 3: Engine mount 4: look for any issues 5: change lifters We took out the engine and box at the same time. I have got pictures here for everyone to look at on how to put the restrictors in. its pretty easy and does work!!!! before i used to get lots of oil escaping from the CATCH can. ie the catch can was not working. now nothing comes out of the catch can. All i did was block the front oil feed and put a tomei 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed (as per sydney kids advice) people would tell me my engine was rooted because its got lots of blow by rah rah rah so i aimed to prove them wrong. To block one of the oil feeds we screwed a screw into the 1.8mm (stock rb30 restrictor) and then pulled it out. once it was out we realised that the screw was stuck in there so we just cut it and put it back in. (See pic) As for the other one I purchased the 1.5 mm restrictor from hi octane (the tomei one for $17 delivered) and bashed the old restrictor down and bashed this one ontop. (see pics) for the million $$ question does it make a difference in oil pressure???. YES.. it does.. BUT only when the engine is cold. before the oil pressure gauge would go up to 3 quarters full on cold startup. Now it goes nearly up to the last line but as soon as the engine warms up it goes back to normal and NO oil pressure increase has been noticed at all. No difference in lifter noise has been noticed. YES it did fix my problem (well SO FAR. no oil has escaped from the catch can when before it would escape from catch can.) I built this RB30DET back in 2004 before anyone knew about the oil issue and how to fix it - so thanks to sydney kids help i have been able to fix this problem. Its very easy to put the restrictors in and i reccomend that you do this on your rb30det conversion. See pics. I hope this helps everyone - heaps of pics to look at.. I am really stoaked my clutch works properly now !!!

Usually the auto is a shorter ratio. Put the manual in for better fuel economy and longer gears - or if you like it zippy and short keep the auto dif in.

You Cant. Its only available through the laptop software.

I was just going to block it of with some newspaper or some glue tak or something LOL j/k Hmmmm.. Good question... Whats the best way ? can just tap the old restrictor down and screw something in its place to block it off? Hmmm

1: Use the Valvoline running in oil. 2: I ran mine for a long time on running in oil (no boost) but not sure if your supposed to do that - mine ran for about 3000ks of labour driving 3: Yes - are the injectors standard though ? 4: 1500km should be fine. ohh and 5: i could be wrong

Supply on demand is why fuel costs so much. So if everyone did this.. Imagine how much a carton of beer would cost ? lol

What i noticed with Sydneykids posts is that when he says something he is allways right wether its a generalisation or not. (if that makes any sense) Note the Topic. it says. "Oil Controll In Rb's" RB means rb20 as well to me!

Hahahaa looks like everyone is jumping at the opportunity to help Sydney kid - Seeing he helps us out all the time =)

Cubes I ended up scoring a second hand head at a decent price so I am taxing the head for the lifters - cheapest option is to use standard second hand ones for now as im not changing the cams to go for solids. My engine max's out on oil pressure when cold too. So yeah when i get it all running again I will post the oil pressure results. The biggest thing for me will be the amount of oil being pushed out of the engine - get tooo much oil in the top end. Going to be a big mission.

I cant wait to get this engine out this weekend and get the lifters changed over and the restrictor put in correctly and get the clutch changed over all in one go and see if i can get the knock sensors running a bit better. Should be able to make another 80rwhp without any issues!!! I will get some photos and put them up on where the restrictors go - how it should look etc etc to make things a bit easier for people doing this. I have decided against running the rear drain as this car is mainly for street - goes to drag strip once a year if its lucky. Thanks for all your help again Sydney Kid.

Very nice Sydney Kid =) If anyone can answer a question directly it can be you. I think this should be put into the RB30 guide thats available as its very important information - it only says restrictors are required but no information on it. This covers it.

how long has it been since the engine has been running ? Did you change the oil ? If so did you go to a different oil to what you normally use ?? If you have not had the engine running for a while the lifters are probly playing up. Get some lifta free from your auto parts shop and run that in with a new oil change and filter. Should fix the problem.

I know this thread is old. But i am going to revive it. Reason being is that I am pulling the engine out this weekend and putting a restrictor in. I got one of those Tomei restrictors from high octane and im not sure what size it is - i think they are 1.5 I am a little confused as to what to do - block the rear oil line completly and then run the 1.5 mm restrictor in the front oil feed or ?? Correct ? Anyone worked out how to get a fitting put onto the back of the head ??? My combo is RB25DET head with VCT and RB25DET oil pump. Sydkid can you please confirm ?

Looking for the above 2 items. Please PM ME. Preferably around sydney central coast or newcastle

Im willing to bet that my car would use nearly double yours would on full song.

Yes they can. There needs to be a small modification for the VCT but I have seen it done before on RB25 with good results.

I been working on my RB30DET & fuel economy for a while now. This is what ive found if i do the below then my car gets around 10.5ish litres per hundred k's 60% of that is highway driving 1: Keep the air filter clean. 2: Keep the revs below 2600rpm (around 100ks an hour) 3: Dont hit boost. 4: Dont load the engine up too hard - try not to go below 10mmhg - this can be hard to do but when you get used to it then it can be OK. 5: Keep the AFM as far away from the turbo as possible. I do 120ks a day to work and back and have been experimenting with this for ages. I find that the cheapest option for me is to use that crappy 91 octane fuel which then forbids me to hit boost and use light throttle (keeping an eye out on knock in pfc sometimes for 2 big hills on the freeway i quickly go into ing/inj and take out 6 deg timing till i get to the top of the hill ) My setup is Apexi PFC Nismo 740CC injectors (has 4 holes) Plazmaman Plenum Top mounted GT3540 / 35mm gate Big front mount Q45 AFM 260rwkw on light tune for the moment. Running it very lean on crooze and advanced timing. I am pretty happy with the economy. But if i drive to work at 120 or 130ks an hour I could use an extra 5 or more litres per work trip (120ks)

Hey Brizzi You cant really push them past 12psi.

High