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Everything posted by Guilt-Toy
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Help: Need To Borrow 5 Stud Wheels+tyres For A Day!
Guilt-Toy replied to someonestolecc's topic in New South Wales
Feel the love!!! -
Tuning For Maximum Economy, And Leanest Safe Afr
Guilt-Toy replied to GTRNUR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
$2 in 6 months? You cant be serious ? -
Tuning For Maximum Economy, And Leanest Safe Afr
Guilt-Toy replied to GTRNUR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I have only used the Autronic with Bosh sensor too. I dont have access to it atm though -
Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift
Guilt-Toy replied to Sydneykid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I wish i knew this back in 2004 when I was building my RB30DET. Its not a huge problem for me but i think installing the baffles will help mine heaps. -
I think to do the rb24 you need RB26 parts.
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Tuning For Maximum Economy, And Leanest Safe Afr
Guilt-Toy replied to GTRNUR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I might run it at 0.830 instead of 0.769 and see if what happens.. il also chuck in 5deg on the way home. -
Tuning For Maximum Economy, And Leanest Safe Afr
Guilt-Toy replied to GTRNUR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Is it bad for your engine to run it too lean on crooze ??? I think mine is running at about 17:1 will this burn a hole in the pistons or something ??? -
Cool.. I got a 60 human paladin on Blackrock.. my name is Skyliner and i am in the guild Lost Legion Got a epic from MC last week.. lovn it!
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Gap your plugs to .6 or .8 and it will fix the problem what happens is that the extra boost puts out the spark =)
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Hey Moanie!! Do these go in with the stock lifters ??? Do they come with the tomei solid lifters as well?
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Tuning For Maximum Economy, And Leanest Safe Afr
Guilt-Toy replied to GTRNUR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Hmmmmmm... I am going to turn off closed loop mode on the way home and see how it goes... its a 60km trip. -
Tuning For Maximum Economy, And Leanest Safe Afr
Guilt-Toy replied to GTRNUR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I DO have a question on this topic actually. IF I am running the PFC with 24% less fuel WITH Closed loop mode still on. Would the PFC still correct it back up to 14.7 or be trying to ?? If thats the case then I will try and turn closed loop off because my car can run at about 16:1 17:1 without whinging too much about it as I had my friends Autronic Wideband sensor in my car for a few months when I tuned my car myself and it was running fine. So yeah. I might try this on the way home and see how it goes. -
Tuning For Maximum Economy, And Leanest Safe Afr
Guilt-Toy replied to GTRNUR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I run my car lean as hell when i drive to work and back. In the PFC setting ING/IGN i turn the number 1.000 down to 0.769 which is about 24% leaner then the standard map. This figure is good when driving on the freeway and it does run a bit shitty around town but it is very driveable. I can save about 3 - 5 litres on my day trip to work and back which is 120km each day. For $20 worth of fuel I get about 15 litres if i lean it right out and crooze at no more then 110 120 I have around 3 - 5 litres left over from my 120km trip. Not bad for a car with 740cc nismo injectors and 350 rwhp. The downside to this method is that if come past a commodore on the freeway I cant hit it beside him and if you forget you have taken 25% fuel out of the map and you give it a good hit.. You can be walking very quickly so yeah its not that hard to go back in and put it back up to 1.000 if you got a good 20 seconds. So yeah something I have wondered about is does an engine run better lean with more timing advance or with retarded timing ??? I used to put in a extra +5 deg timing in overall but stopped doing it and have not noticed any difference. I believe the leaner on crooze the better. My turbo is top mounted to the extra heat would wash off pretty quickly and i do keep my eye out on knock levels heaps. -
Got the following parts for sale - Located in Newcastle and Central Coast - Can meet in Sydney RB25DET pipe that the BOV goes onto with an Apexi Twin Chamber BOV (Genuine not copy and has the proper adapter plate for the stock BOV position) same style as pic $250 RB25DET AUTO ECU Series 1.5 (This computer is the best standard one you can get as it runs a different map to the manual one and you can run it on a manual for extra power) $250 Stagea RB25 Sump + front diff - Excellent for 4WD Conversion $350 Walbro 550hp Fuel pump + filter and wires etc used car made 220rwkw $80 firm RB25DET Top half of plenum - perfect to do that throttle body mod (no throttle body included) $60 Napa 511 Portable MP3 / VCD discman player - $100 Clutch line for r33 gtst that connects your master cyl to your slave cyl + hose (excelent for manual conversion plans) $50 Pics will be updated in a few days. Can be phoned on 0432254403 or PM me here.
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Q45 90mm Afm. Too Close To Turbo = Issues.
Guilt-Toy replied to Guilt-Toy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Thanks Mr I work in my own workshop and I know everthing LOL I knew i was on the right track there.. But can you shed some light on why the 3.5" plastic PVC piping works 100 times better then the bigger 4" flex hose the same length oh and the PVC piping sounds heaps better too... WHY!! *scratches head confused as hell* -
Q45 90mm Afm. Too Close To Turbo = Issues.
Guilt-Toy replied to Guilt-Toy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Yeah map tracer goes off its head... it does a nice circle.. in around the first 5 x 5 box's etc.... It hunts and runs like crap. Move the AFM away from the turbo and its great. apparently HKS make a little unit called IDS or something that catches the idle and stops this issue but they are worth about $400. Moving the AFM away from the turbo works great. Just cant work out why the 3.5" pvc pipe works better then the 4" 100mm flex hose!!! -
Q45 90mm Afm. Too Close To Turbo = Issues.
Guilt-Toy replied to Guilt-Toy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
No it can even occur after driving in vacume and you slow down to a set of lights.. when you stop the engine will hunt and dump in heaps of fuel (lots of black smoke) and run rich as. With the AFM moved away from the turbo (under the front gaurd) it works perfect with the dodgy pvc setup and works acceptable with the 4" flex hose. What would be the benifits of moving the AFM onto the boost pipe. would the AFM handle it ??? I am starting to think i should replace the flex hose with a 3.5" mandrell bend + pipe and see how it goes. -
I am looking to buy some replacement lifters for my RB25DET Must be in good working condition. Will buy as many as you can spare up to 24 May also consider a solid lifter setup please PM me or msn me on [email protected] or phone on 0432254403 - SMS is ok just leave details.
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hmmmmm I am going through the same thing in my RB30DET But my oil is commin from the Breather. I cant seperate the oil. I have tried heaps of things. All i can do now is run the breather from my catch can into a bottle in the engine bay and just live with it. Need to install some baffles and have a better breathing system.
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Stock Pump And Sock Injectors Rb25det
Guilt-Toy replied to pornstar's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
with the stock pump your looking at around the 190rwkw mark... If you upgrade the pump some people say you can get 250rwkw out of the stock injectors BUT i have never been able to get more then 230rwkw with a good pressure reg. -
Q45 90mm Afm. Too Close To Turbo = Issues.
Guilt-Toy replied to Guilt-Toy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
YES. I think -
Hey Guys I got a top mounted GT3540 which has a 4" inlet with a 4" bend then a 4 to 3.5" silicon reducer plugged into the AFM then the filter so there is a short run to air filter.. Good setup ?? Well it looks good but it drives like SHIT. When comming off boost to idle it will stall. The car would cough and backfire and jerk all the time and it HUNTS like crazy!! so I heard somewhere that the AFM shouldnt be close to the turbo so i tried a way to move it away. So what i did was went to the hardware store and purchased some 3.5" PVC piping and a 90deg bend. We hooked it up and had the air flow meter sitting right in the gaurd where air flow runs through. The results were suprising. it went totally awesome. The car sounded OFF ITS HEAD when comming onto boost and letting off the accelerator (air noise was just awesome) ALL the idle issues were resolved and all the popping and coughing and jerking just completly went away... So i then decided that PCV plumbing pipe is dodgy and i really did not want my AFM to come off and run over it lol so I purchased some 4" flexible hose and put it on so its now 4" from the turbo straight to the AFM. I found this setup to not work as well as the PVC 3.5" pipes. It does not sound no where near as good and it coughs a little and it nearly stalls when you come off boost. (still its MUCH better then the AFM close to the turbo but not as good as the PVC setup) Wouldnt the 4" pipe be better ?? the AFM is 90MM and the pipe is 100mm so does anyone know why the bigger better pipe does not work as well as the $20 PVC plumbing job we did. Normally dodgy is never better but in this case... I am confused. Is it because the PVC is the same size as the AFM and it runs more stable that way ? if thats the case should you use pipe the same size as the AFM all the way through for best driveablilty. So yeah anyone know whats the best way to sort this one out. I am thinking of getting a 3.5" pipe made up from the 4" bend to see how it goes but that will cost around $150 so anyone been through this before ?
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Damn.. Lucky lucky.. I was gona say I would have definatly gone for a Sydney kid special if I had the chance. Good luck with it
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I hope skylines dont have that feature!!!
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I just hope he pays me the $50 he offered for my post =) j/k ahhahaa