Guilt-Toy

There are people putting gt3540's with .82 housings on 2 litre lancers and stuff. and im sure you rb20 will spool it quicker then a 4 cyl would ???

The Fuel map is at - Settings - INJ MAP You go in here and crooze should be 10x10 anymore then that and you should be into boost. A good way to get better economy from your car is to tune the sucker yourself - it does not really matter how lean or how advnced the timing is under vacume so this is what I did to get good economy. My mate has a Autronic meter and a dyno and i have had time on the dyno and the autronic meter when I need it.... This is what I did. I got my laptop and sat the car in the garage and went into th INJ map and the ING maps and typed EVERY setting into Microsoft excel. Once i have done this i would create a graph and look at the map - (pretty funky stuff) Anyway once you have all the sttings in (its best to actually go into every load point and put the number down as well as the . value as on crooze you will find lots of load points with the same number but they will have a different point value so thats why you have to go into each load point seperatly. Another way you can do this is go to your local tune shop who have the POWERFC software who can save your program to a disk for you incase you totally fark things up you can get them to load the old map back into it. The first two lines in the first box does your idle. I wouldnt touch these. What you need to do is go for a drive on a road where you can drive slow and accelerate up to the speed limit and back down again without causing too much hassle. Take out 10 press's in each box in the first 5x5 but remember you dont want to touch line 1 and 2 in the first 5 because thats idle mixture. Once you have taken out 10 press's from each cell you will then be able to get out of settings and go into monitor and then map tracer - this will tell you which part of the map you are using on the fly and drive the car in that box and see how the drivablilty has changed if it has not changed at all then you know you can go down a extra 5 press's in each cell and lean it off a bit more. Keep doing this for 8 down and 15 across - do one box lot of 5 at a time then test the drivability in that area before deciding to put more fuel back in or take more out - if you start to get it running tooo lean then you will notice the car is not running very nice and will start to stutter and not be smooth this is where you put fuel back into it (to take fuel out you use the down arrow and to put fuel in you press the up arrow. Remember you need to to press next after you have changed the value to save the setting if you press prv once you change the setting it will revert back to the unchanged value. Another way to do it is to change all the values of 8 down and 10 across lower by 10 press's at a time and drive and test - that is easier or you could squeeze more economy out of it by doing 5x5 at a time. The reason why i have done 5x5 at a time is because the standard map is a good map but every car has different fuel pumps and they are all in different condition so all your doing is putting the map into a more economical place for your car if you get what i mean. I tuned my RB30DET this way and pulled a 12.9 on the strip with it works great but dont do any boost tuning unless you have a autronic wideband a/f meter to be sure the mixtures are all correct.

THANKYOU! finally someone with a clue =)

Can we adapt one though ? im sure we can somehow!!! does the computer support it? can we adapt a sensor and wire it into the PFC ? This will be a great mod IMHO

anyone have a idea if this is a easy fit ?

I have tuned a few cars for my friends and friends friends etc and i hire my mates Autronic for $100 make them pay it and buy me a bottle of bourbon or $50 good fun too..

How long did he say it will take to deliver? i am putting my order through on monday. Anyone else have an idas if these are direct bolt ins?

oh the injectors i am ordering are 16600-RR544 740cc Red where can i get info on these ?

Hey guys... Doing my top mount gt3540 setup and have decided to go with bigger injectors now seeing that I have got my manifold off as well... Anyway the question i have is that I want to get injectors that bolt in with the least amount of fuss and i hear that the Nismo 740cc injectors high imp side feed are the go - but do they bolt into the rail and do the wire plugs plug in also ? do you need anything else to get these injectors to work as I know you need collars for the sard injector series what do you need for the nismo ones? Anyone installed these before in a r33 gtst s1 and know whats involved ? I am ordering them from Nengun. What rwkw are these good for ? would they do 320 rwkw without a prob? Thanks

Talk to me in PM scott - not related to sale of turbo kit - otherwise mods will close the thread. Sorry guys

Been in this car with these turbo's and shat my dacks =) Good luck with sale Scott

SOLD.

Need one this week! Plz tell me where to get one from !

[email protected] please send pics.

As topic. Must be high mount and tuned if possible. ring 0432254403.. if u got one you want to offload or post where i can get one at a reasonable price ! thanks

Seems like the guy who came over (made me take the intake pipe off to check the turbo for play) who put a deposit on the turbo smashed his car up tonite so he cant buy the turbo. Still for sale.

Yes its a standard t3 flange - because its a vg30 rear housing - stock nissan housings - even your rb20 dump pipe will fit and it will fit onto your exaust manifold. its probly done 20,000ks + - i do alot of freeway driving. I dont know if there is any shaft play because I have not had the turbo off since i put the rb30 in (about 15,000km ago) and it was fine - the turbo still works and makes big power so it is ok. It would go hard on a rb20 - have heaps of top end as well as a rb25 The front inlet of the turbo is heaps bigger then stock - you need to mod it to fit - very easy to do - if you want we can do a deal with all my old stuff to fit it and i can make new stuff for the gt3540 EDIT: Forgot to mention - you dont need a spacerplate on the exaust manifold because the front housing clears it fine I wont be on much on the weekend so if you have any questions call 0432254403

SOLD

Nice man.. what turbo specs??? stock injectors ????

Ive been runnin around in my RB30DET for about 9 months... 30,000km or so later and she it still going strong... Mods are RB30DET 25 head PFC Exaust AVO Stage 2 intercooler and 3" piping Sard FPR withstock injectors T4 turbo 60 ar with rx7 rear 300zx rear housing Walbro 500hp pump Taking it to UAS to give it a tune methinks.. any ideas on what power she should make ??? I would like 250rwkw thats the max for stock injectors ???

Hhhahahahaaa I think the guy just needed to make a mistake to learn that he should research products before buying them. Dont take it to heart man just get rid of it buy a proper unit and move on.. ps: make sure your buying quality next time

99 octane.. nice!!! im gettin one those devices. when i run 17psi boost it falls back down to 9psi i have major boost holding issues

I had this problem on the last 2 PFC's i had. I found if i went to the AFM settings and changed it to another AFM and change it back or even just go into the settings fixed the problem.

I was just going to post somethin bout fuel pressure regulators... that was.. Should i go the Sard ver the Nizmo bolt on item ? I have the extra fitting on the fuel rail i have on my car allready with a stock fuel pressure reg (rigged up the FPR with the fitting) Is the Nizmo item any good ? would it do the same job as the Sard ? or should i just go with the Sard ?? And as for you reflex, you should stick with quality when looking at fuel pressure regulators. Do NOT buy crap. get a sard or a nizmo or a SX or get bigger injectors. So anyone know what i should get ???

lol oh i got 230rwkw on 9 10 psi and im down to the end of the load points