Guilt-Toy

thats interesting... sr20 eh ?

Very nice vid. Thanks for the great watch!

Also guys remember when taking on the $40 kit rebuild option - IF your master cyl has scores in the bore it will need to be re-sleved or replaced which will end up costing you more money in the long run. So before you buy the kit - it may be a good idea to take the master cyl off and taking it to a clutch place for assesment before spending your money.

the boost levels depends on what year model your R33 is. The series 1 models had a steel compressor with a ceramic rear wheel where the series 2 (96 models and above i believe) have a plastic compressor wheel with a ceramic rear wheel - makes spool up much more interestingly faster but will give you a lower max boost level. The series 2 turbo can handle 12PSI where the series 1 turbo can handle a MAX of 1 bar - keep in mind that every intercooler / pipe setup has different levels of boost drop so if you are running 14psi on your boost gauge (plenum) your turbo could be pushing 18psi which takes a series 1 turbo into dangerous levels. Just because your running your turbo at higher then the recomended limits it does not mean you WILL blow it up. You may be able to run your Series 1 turbo at 18psi for years without noticing any issues IF you dont let it get hot. if your giving it a few highway runs at higher boost and a drag race here and there then as long as the turbo is not experiencing high temp levels then you wont lose your rear ceramic wheel because its not getting into the dangerous temp levels - if you get what i mean. Some people get up to 200rwkw out of stock turbo and others have been known to get up to 210rwkw + - It depends on how aggresive the tune is and how much of a hard time the driver is giving the turbo when it comes to guessing the reliability.

Cameron: my 90 reading was sitting out the front waiting for the girls to get there ass into gear and get into the car (with air con running on a 40 deg day) Was just idleing itself getting hotter and hotter and hotter.... Mine can sit on 86 after a few good boosts on a hot day - i am running a AVO Stage 2 intercooler with 3" staino piping - there is still room for the radiator to get direct air (through the grill for starters) My cooler is a Bar N Plate setup - Tube and fin is better for street applications. Are they more expensive ?

hahahahahhaaa microdrift can kill in seconds LOL I suggest he goes to see John @ Unique Auto Sports (www.gtr.com.au) to get an idea what he is up for. Way too many noobiez on this forum trying to help other newbies thinking they have a clue. No offence

Have heard people report these injectors failing in piston engines costing them there whole engine. IMHO if your going to get injectors then get a set of SARD or Nismo or HKS or whatever bolts in. get 700cc - much better to run less then 70% inj duty with room for improvement.

Depends on the intercooler setup. The intercooler should not cover the whole radiator + if you are still running the standard engine fan and shroud it should still run fine. On super hot days mine does not go over 90. Get a water sprayer setup from MRT in sydney - I run a custom setup which its just for piece of mind more then anything. Good luck

What you REALLY should do is go and see John at Unique Auto Sports at Castle Hill. He will have everything you need. Know everything you need to know and also advise you on what is the next best modification for your car. He will also take care of your services without any issues as he deals with skylines / imports 100% of the time. He is your man. His website is at www.gtr.com.au - he has been in the game for years.

This engine drives very nice on the street. I still cant get over the fact that the bottom end can handle 475BHP with stock cast pistons.. lol What about stock bearings? like ACL brand ? can they handle that power too? SydneyKid: what ignition timing have you seen RB30DET's (with 25 heads) use on full boost ? The max power out of standard injectors i could have got was 240rwkw but that was standard fuel pump too. upgrade the stock pump to a bigger unit and you might get more with a Adjustable Rising rate regulator - but thats really unsafe way of doing it and its a prick to tune them at times. (can be inconsistant)

Been driving mine for the last few months too.

Turbotechnics in Newcastle is very good with Autronic. The guys name is Lincon and he at Mitchell Road Cardiff. He hires a Dyno in sydney to do his tunes so you can meet up with him down there. Good Luck - People fly him over the country to tune their cars

72 Knock at 5500rpm you say ?? are you sure that it was not a knock from backing off ? those knock sensors are pretty sensitive.. I sometimes get knock that high when i back off the throttle... Does it do it while accelerating or right when u back off? how many times has it done it ? What injectors are you running and what fuel regulator and what injector duty are you running ? You wouldnt have the time to write up 2 excel spread sheets with your ignition and fuel maps? would interesting to compare them with my RB30DET maps

Thanks Nismoid. This guy has been trying to convince me to take the twin cam head off my RB30DET and put a single cam one on there and run a $4 flapper with a drill over it to make up for the single cam. He needed to be put into his place. He has no idea that a RB30DET is far superior to a RB30ET any day of the week no matter what the modification is. Now we all know that running a flapper wheel over the combustion chamber and exaust ports will increase flow & allow more agressive ignition maps which will give you a small increase in power wether it be a twin cam engine or single cam engine. But more importantly we know that is it not nesessary to reach 400bhp on an RB30DET with compatible support systems in place. OR even a RB25DET OR RB20DET. Correct me if i am wrong but isnt the $4 flapper wheel a "OLD SCHOOL" technique ??? with the power gaines in other area's for the same money as a retail port job and flow be no way near the power increase as a bigger turbo and bigger injectors with a proper ecu to controll the Ignition & fuel maps ? We all love nissan engines and we dont really care if it has two cams or one. But luke. get a clue. Ive had my say.

anyone else want to tell MrSkylineRB30ET that he has no idea and that he is an idiot ? he gets his info from a commodore workshop manual... LOL hahahahahahahahahaa and various websites Things a Friend said about of MrSkylineRB30ET LOL funny shit. he has no idea what he is on about.

Could have anything done to the maps

I keep hearing conflicting storys. One is that that RB30et head flows more then the RB25DET head.

Mate i have had a RB30DET in my r33 for a few months now. I love this engine. This engine is awesome. Get one. I can organise to get one built for you for a price. It will be WAY less then the money you quoted there. Send me a PM for my phone number and we can have a chat.

sold for $130

this has a bracket and different fittings to suit an R33. Make an offer

price drop - Will take $650

I have an Malpassi adjustable fuel regulator 1:1 silver top which has a made bracket to fit on the standard RB plenums. It also has different fittings so the fuel lines can connect easier instead of using long lines they fit well. Looking for $150 with the bracket and fittings. Came off an R33

For sale - Malpassi Fuel reg Silver one with bracket for RB engines $150

Got a RB20DET engine complete without turbo. Will sell for $800 ONO In Newcastle

Work out how bigger the injectors are to a % range. Get a lend of a Wide band Oxygen sensor and set your injectors to run at %80 take it for a drive and see how the fuel mixtures are. Look in Setting and then "INJECTOR" set the first values on all 6 injectors to %80 and see how it runs