Guilt-Toy

WHY DID YOU HAVE TO SUGGEST THAT?

So.. thanks for reminding me to call Paul, Mr Red R Racing comes through and answers a private number from overseas for once! was good to catch up... So he mentioned that because these cams are not so big, it should be okay with stock springs, and that there will be no issues with the springs, but then he started being a detective and found some flaws with my setup and put me in the right direction! car dropped a cyl once or twice, and once the engine even shut down... he said that I need to change the oil restrictor situation in the head, at the moment its setup as how sydneykid suggested in his thread but now for me I need to go back to twin 1.2mm feeds to give my lifters some more oil to stop them from bleeding and playing up. also pointed out that the thick oil i am using aint going to help my situation either, i just switched to the lemans, so looks like its back to competition for me! (Motul) Also, there is NO chance RB26DET springs will work in a Hydro rb25 vct liftered head. (for the searchers) going to rip the head off and get this sorted asap! cheers for all the input guys, im sorted GT

nice car mate

just drive it.

I cannot really do that, I don't want to open it unless they are going to go inside, not strip down and put it all back together again and back to where I started.

I scored a set of valve springs, but they are for RB26DETT. Anyone used the valve springs from RB26 into a hydro RB25DET s1 head? Its the HKS Step 2 ones. RB26DETT 22001-AN001 For STEP2 BNR32, BCNR33, BNR34. 030910 I have got Tomei 270 8.8mm lift cams, in my rb25/30. really would like to use these if i can. any ideas? cheers

hmmmm.. its pretty broken. open it up and see is there is oil inside.

did your old rb30 crank have a collar fitted? if so can you take pics of the snout of the crank of the new crank and the old one. I might be able to pinpoint WHY this happened and save it from happening to you again a second time. Changing the crank and not investigating WHY it happened is not the right way to go about it if you don't want it to happen again. let me know if you want my help.

yeah, i put them in a R33 in Armenia after we took this video. the lift was 10.25 on those.

your best option is a vipec or haltech or something similar.

STOP. take the car to your tuner. I'm done.

yeah its my 30.... i can get springs if i really need them, just can't be assed if there is no need for it. i dont rev this engine past 7000rpm btw... what do you think?

little off topic, would the tomei 270 with 8.8mm lift cams work well with a stock rb25 head? the lift is not that much bigger then stock.

on this topic, does anyone know if the tomei 270 8.8mm lift cams would be okay for a stock rb25 hydro and stock springs?

how much power are you going to be pushing this engine? the Vipec V44 will run this engine with ease with the distributor. If you are not going to need to lean on the ignition system there is no real reason to change the triggers, also if you must change them look at the other trigger systems available, ie crank triggers.

I am interested in helping out to get things going.

yeah sure man, if i can. problem is i only have 1 free day a week, Friday. pm me dates etc etc and il send you my mobile number, il see what events are going on at the track. are you coming to Abu Dhabi at all? thats where all the action is for racing is these days.

you are the kinda guy who breaks his arm, and gets a hip replacement to fix it, then wonders why his arm is still hurting? I am not going to sit here and argue with you on what is wrong with the car. Get splitfires, extend the intake pipe a little, get a decent full tune done on the car, Ask Jez for a full tune, if you can run 1.0m gap thats better. im done with this, continue in this thread or go and actually fix the issues.

OK. Reason why it is stalling from letting go of the throttle is because of reversion, the first intake pipe was longer, I will say this now and I have said this many times before from my experience is that the longer the intake pipe for the AFM the better, when running a power fc i put the AFM right infront of the front wheel inside the gaurd and it solved my problems, i suggest you look at modding the intake pipe and making it the 5" longer as per the old pipe, or put it down infront of the front wheel, make SURE you secure it. Running over your AFM sucks. The "lean popping" you descibed is exactly that, lean popping, this issue is not anything bad to be honest, but the reason for it is the tune, I looked at that map and it is very messy for many reasons, the load sites where you are on low load and mid rpm where you are holding the revs has not been tuned at all, second to this the reason why it does not pop when its cold is because the power fc has a fuel vs ect compensation, some would call it cold start, and its adding fuel while engine is cold. Also a little birdy told me that your turbo has some defects on the front wheel? this may be the cause of your low power depending how badly the turbo is damaged, take some pics and post them up. I would also suggest you send the car and get a FULL tune, if this car came to me I would start from scratch. Popping on idle for a skyline is normal when you have a weak ignition system, so if it pops on idle that is the reason. Maybe you should install some LS1 coil packs or something. So pay someone some decent money who knows what he is doing and let him do a whole tune, not just a "clean up"

Hey mate, i just checked my price list and that price is pretty much on the money for min retail price and allowing $30 for shipping. I don't think you will find it any cheaper then that, someone looked after you with that price they would not be allowed to sell it for any cheaper going by the min retail prices. I would sell it for $100+ more myself. About the supra adapters, ray made them and had a huge demand for them, so I am not suprised if he wants to keep them with the ecu's, but when he runs out of stock on the ecu's that might change perhaps? Grats on the new purchase. You will love tuning the vipec.

back to the topic. some more questions. Which spark plugs are you using? What gap are the spark plugs? What coil packs do you have in the car now? which coil packs were in the car when it was tuned? was there any issues with spark when tuning ? was the gaps changed when it was tuned to now? Who has tuned this car? i know Jez looked at it, but did he do a full tune? I don't know if he does full tunes. The old intake pipe, was it longer then the new one by any chance? what fuel pump is inside the car now? what pump was inside the car when it was tuned, was the old pump faulty or running badly when it was tuned? who installed the fuel pump and how good of a job did they do? Man seriously there are sooo many variables on this cluster f**k of a thread that it is hard to keep up to it to understand the issues you are having, to me it sounds like you have 3 different problems that are not related to each other. Anyways answer ALL the questions for me, lets see where it goes. cheers

Not from what I have seen. anyway this car has a Z32 afm.

do me a favour, turn the air flow meter, so the sticker is facing upwards to the bonnet. so turn it clockwise. il have a look at the tune soon.

where are the pictures of the intake pipe and how it is mounted int he car? why should i bother trying to help you when you can't even bother to upload simple pictures?

looks like she got spared of her lashes! lucky girl =)