Guilt-Toy

Sorry to break it to you man, but they are very very hard to get right, even if it looks right its not, if it looks "close enough" then its definatly going to be out. my experience caused me months of headaches. once i narrowed it down to the cam timing then it took me a month or so to get it right. You need someone who has been through this issue on the RB30DET so he knows it, been there and done it before. otherwise they usually say "its good, its close enough, she'll be right mate" "can i have my money now?" My opinion is learn how to do it yourself, you need to take the radiator out, the whole front covers of the engine and that means removing the pulley as well, get a decent puller and make sure the puller does NOT pull from the air conditioning cog, after you look at the engine you can see that the bottom mark is perfect, the intake is perfect but the exhaust is just a little bit out. try different things, turn the motor over 10 times before checking the timing again before putting it back together, its going to be a long haul but if you put your mind to it eventually you will "fluke" the sweet spot and watch your engine come alive. I just removed the front covers and the cams on my car to upgrade cams, so i am going to go through the whole thing again. lets hope my dirty thirty goes easy on me this time. good luck with it.

the best tuner for nistune is Yavus at Unigroup engineering, http://www.unigroup.com.au/Home.html contact details on this site. this guy is one of the best tuners in sydney, if not the best.

The issue is the cam timing. Put the RB25 cams back in the car, take the car to a competent tuner who KNOWS what he is doing, get him to set your cam timing AND ignition timing and RETUNE the car and expect another 50rwkw+. If there are no competent tuners where you are, then you still need to see one to fix the issue on your car, DO NOT put it in the too hard basket unless you don't want your extra power. I had a issue like this years back, after fixing the cam timing I gained 80rwkw, seriously the last run was 300rwkw, it went directly up to 370 run to run. That is all, ship the car to Trent at Status tuning in melbourne, he will sort it out and ship it back to you.

hahhahahahahaaa,, I can just imagine this.... "HERE TAKE THIS DICKHEAD" then fowl your spark plugs, engine stalls, pull over on side of the road.... get your head punched in, change / clean spark plugs.... drive home. who is the dickhead now ? LOL and about R&R, look at the maps on the R33 to understand it more.

www.youtube.com/upyas

more interesting news from Disco!

with nistune you need to find the sweet spot. it can be really fiddly.

being a vipec dealer and now tuning at a workshop that does motecs, we are now starting to buy Vipec's when we would have used Motecs. Autronic is a very good ecu, but it is lacking on ign outputs (4 only, must use wasted spark on the 6 cyl or go a CDI), they also have faults, sometimes we need to smash them hard on the ground when they stop working. However when a Autronic comes in for a tune its easy money, the way VE works on these things are very close to the vipec, but it makes it a little easier to do the tune depending on the setup. The Motec is a very good ecu, i have grown to like them, once you know where everything is and how it all works its a old clunker that its hardware has not been changed for how long now? tuning them without the logging options sucks, Try tuning a 800hp car with no map tracing or logs... Its not very much fun when you are usually spoilt with the vipec software features. The V88 is the new bad boy on the market compared to the older ecu's you are comparing them to, the software is a dream to use and everything is layed out to get the job done well and fast, the support was second to none and everything works properly! it even supported Electronic throttle without any expensive updates and the electronic throttle works very good. I would rather tune vipec over all the other ecu's, then motec then autronic, but the haltech? thats another story but lets just say I favour them more then the motec also. Everyone has their own opinions, I see 5+ motecs a week and every single time I wish it was a Vipec. In this country the Motec has the #1 reputation. Its been doing the job well much longer then the Vipec / Autronic, Autronic is #2 here, and other ecu's are starting to pop their head out of the water. IMO keep the motec, it does the job fine... IF you are going to buy another ECU then I would buy a Vipec or Link or Haltech.

check your cat. its possible it could be blocked or its falling appart

yay... we worked out how to calibrate a TPS. try setting up a e-throttle on a vipec lol

if you have a aftermarket ecu you can calibrate the throttle.

mark @ godzilla motorsports

nah the manuals are the strongest box's I picked up a full r32 gtr rear diff today, it cost me $430 us, then a friend offered to help me go pick it up, and offered me a brand new set of tomei pro cams lash type 270s in box, 2 tomei cam gears in box and brand new 1.2 mm tomei head gasket for my old r34 diff, who was i to knock back his offer? and he actually gave me them... they are legit lol. its going on my rb30 Also when i was at the place today picking up the diff, i tripped over a Holden RB30 single cam with auto trans, i swear i had to look twice, i thought i pollymorphed into wrecking yard in sydney for a second and had to get my bearings back... WTF. and they only wanted $400 for it, it definatly came from Aus they knew what it was. UAE is one big f**king surprise after the other i tell you, might go and pick it up next week, need to try convince the boss to use it for his drag car.

Call trent, Status tuning http://www.chequeredtuning.com/new/?q=node/21 He will do a very very good job.

Boost went.... 26 20 14 9 3pci... each step being 1 second or less. You know what to check next.

How much fuel do you have in the tank?

you will have the same problem with the piggy back. harsh on the transmission

So did sooo many arabs! now most of our customers are removing them, last one was a 600 whp toyota land cruiser. put a motec m600 in it.

if you don't ever plan to pass a emissions test, and you don't care about the microtech's timing drifts and you can be bothered with aftermarket aux's then go for it. its just not the right way of doing things.

please use something else on a skyline. try the haltech sprint 500

here the land cruiser 1fz and the nissan tb48 are just as popular as each other. people like the nissan better because of the VCT, (they call them VTEK) and people like the land cruiser because when you build them they can take a massive amount of power and they are half the price of the vtek engines. Just do exactly what you would do with a skyline except go for some big big cams and lower then 8:1 compression and get a gt45 turbo R34 gtr ? damn.. can i just drop a r32 gtr diff into it? Here is a car i tuned the other day... Starting to like Haltech more and more these days.

that calculator is bogus, it says my car has 700rwhp, it has 500. r33 with 10.8 @ 135mph.

yeah i'm still trying to work out how that could happen........

I had the 1600's on a 1000hp land cruiser, motec was not controlling them very good, put in a set of 2000's and it was perfect. 2000's and 1000's are perfect, they idled a 1.5 litre engine with ID2000's.

^_^