Guilt-Toy

we would love to help you to build the engine yourself but we are not engine builders.. maybe you should try a engine builder forum or buy a book on how to build engines and read it? might be a good place to start. Buy a shitty bmw or merc that has lots of parts available in your country and start with rebuilding that engine and see how you go. However the best way for you to fix your car is buy a full engine from Japan and install it and then take it to a tuner and get it tuned / checked for any lean conditions or detonation etc etc. good luck with it

Dude, I spoke to you on GTR UK.... I will help you get your car in a running state to take to your tuner. After i am finised with it you will be able to drive it and not have to trailer it.. Add me to MSN like i suggest on gtr.co.uk We will sort it out. If you need a decent tuner, I am for hire and not very far away ATM Anthony

over this side of the world.. *sigh* there must be something in the water or something.... People are very different. Take all common sense, and chuck it out the window. Everyone is a qualified expert You can modify anything to fit, she will be right mate If you can save $5 and buy a lesser quality part then you should Its better to do everything yourself even though you have no idea what you are doing. Oil's ARE oil's.. A cheap $30 for 5 litre oil does the same job as a $150 oil change would (main cause of engine failure here) I have seen one guy destroy a engine 5 times in 4 months, he did not want to pay $30 to get his AFR's checked after destroying the first motor. 4 motors later ??? Seen one guy with a R33 GTR rebuild his engine and use the old engine bearings AND rings.. Engine lasted 1 month Seen all kinds of things that you would never believe.. The best thing to do is offer your opinion and then don't talk to them about it anymore it just gets more and more frustrating and just sit back and watch those engine parts fly and have a laugh about it to yourself. Back on topic... The best place for you to buy a r34 rb26 is directly from Japan. Once you get it running take it to your local dyno shop (i know one guy in SA) Johannesburg who will can help you if you are around there. AND GET YOUR STATE OF TUNE CHECKED. USE GOOD QUALITY OIL. Remember most oils around these parts are NOT original, it may say "Castrol" or "Mobil 1" but from which factory was it produced for the euro market or jap market? You just never know what your going to get inside the bottle. This is VERY important. AVOID OILS MADE IN the sphincter of the universe FACTORY'S Good luck with it,

my friend told me about this car.... heard a bit about it. post the dyno sheet please

Wrong. Its been copied.. and we have f**ked about 4 of them so far

errr... Think its best i walk away from this one. Should have known better then to bother with someone with an attitude like that.

very possible. also this crunch sounds different to a propper syncro crunch. a proper syncro crunch is very excessive and harsh where this is more of a notchy mini crunch as the gears are being selected.

I hear you. So explain to us your opinion of "excessive" is ?

Welcome to the forums mate. If you are in Australia then a RB26dett would be the way to go, however you are in Russia and it is not so easy to come across parts and tuners to complete this kind of conversion and the cost would be really expensive. Why do you want to change your engine? Seeing that it is a S13 your RB20 will be all you need for a decent drift car if tuned correctly. The RB20 can support over 350hp at wheels reliable if done correctly. I suggest you keep the RB20 and do some modifications to this engine, instead of doing a engine swap Reason being is. RB20 has re-mappable ECU, which is much cheaper then a aftermarket ecu replacement. RB20 can take the RB26DETT 440cc injectors which will support your 350hp and they are cheap The turbo you mention would be perfect for the job, if you cannot afford this turbo then a KKR 430 would be able to do the job also but may be little laggy compared to the Ball bearing GTRS I am a tuner from Australia currently living and tuning cars in the Republic of Georgia, too bad you are in Russia it is a little bit far and hard to travel here we could have tuned the RB20 for you. We have a Dyno Dynamics 2WD dyno. I may be interested in a trip to Russia to do some tuning if you guys need a decent tuner, I am good with Apexi Power FC, Vi-Pec, Nistune and also have facilities to re-map standard ECU + many more platforms. Good luck with it, i seriously think you are better off sticking with the engine you have as its still a good engine especially in lighter S13 cars. Feel free to PM me or skype me on anthonye1978 Anthony

i have connected the front abs sensor to the vipec and setup % slip. setup a map to trim ignition trim dependant on the difference of wheel speed from front and rear wheels. so far i have just set it up to trim 15deg timing when the wheels spin and can feel major difference - wheels still spin but the car just seems to accelerate at the same time. i still need to tune it and play with it more. so i am guessing no one has done this before? Get rid of the power fc's and buy a real ecu because this is going to be interesting once i work it out. what about second gear launch's ? has anyone tried this?

Has anyone tried launching high powered RWD cars in second gear to get better times? 300rwkw - 400rwkw. Has anyone tried this with a aftermarket ecu launch control and traction control % slip that is available with the more advanced ecu's? Would like to know if anyone else is playing around with this. and what settings they find to work the best. Using street tyres on the street preferable as thats what I am dealing with ATM, got my car and another one to setup and trying to get my head around and find out as much info as possible before going out and doing live testing.

drain your oil from your gearbox and look at the magnet. you will find the little clips inside if you are unsure.

make sure the exhaust is not vibrating or rubbing on anything. sounds funny but i was chasing issues for ages and it ended up being the exhaust moving about and touching the rear bumper

DONT YOU PEOPLE SEARCH! All answered here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ng-t290880.html

Fixed my gearbox. as suspected the clips were in the oil. We did not have to remove any of the gears, we were able to put the clips into the box without removing the hub! box is changing well now. Also if you keep driving the box like this you will wear out the selector fork that moves the gears, i had to change to the spare one because this one was flogged out so if you have this problem you should fix it ASAP.

what about the frequency bandwidth? care to explain a bit about this option? what is it for what does it do?

max adv is 35deg in your map on these load points. something is not right somewhere.. and this issue happaned after your removed the timing case and harmonic balancer and CAS and re-installed them. Take your belts off and try it and get back to me.

you sure its a ping mate? could it be some kind of rattle coming from the water pump or oil pump or something moving around in the head? disconnect the water pump belt and quickly test it before you do anything else

i had a cat on my car. after 12 months there was nothing inside and i did not puch it out or gut it. what happens if it guts itself? and you recieve a 10k fine? pretty slack imo

make sure you have a 044 pump and your turbo has the 1.06 rear housing for that horse power. as well as the rods issue and no more then 7500rpm it will live a long time

wanker

Yavus is a champ! You need to take the car back to him and get him to whack it back on the dyno to see the difference in horse power and overlay the power curve with the old one when it was tuned. Then post the results. That would make this thread worth reading for a alot of people im sure.

makes me laugh sometimes.... has anyone here actually rebuilt a turbo in their backyard without balancing and actually testing? Balancing is overated.. whats the worste thats going to happen? Try it. I have. One turbo i did is still alive on the car 6 years later. No balancing done at all.

Factory ecu ? are you talking a R32 ecu ? you can program the eprom and change the dwell settings...

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