Jump to content
SAU Community

Guilt-Toy

Members
  • Posts

    5,230
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    96%

Everything posted by Guilt-Toy

  1. what a pain in the ass! what ecu are you running? I have seen a car destroy modules like this and it was running wasted spark as well. the guy just kept replacing them
  2. where does it need to be longer? does the exhaust have a cat? with flanges? make a stainless decat pipe a little longer if that will work
  3. Yes.. finally we are getting traction in this thread! Any more info will be good.. when i get the bits il be putting some more pics and info up.
  4. i did the whole dating a chick with a skyline. big mistake. Never again. But a chick in a nice Euro car over this side of the world... *drooool* they have the looks to backup the style... Could be wrong again though.. I will get back to you
  5. mine were too small, and he did not reply to my pm's
  6. Selector Hub Clip Instructions (Thanks to turboedsloth) 1.Box on the Bench 2: 2. Remove electrical connectors, speedo, case bolts and selector cover. There is a spring under the cover once you pull it off 3. Spring under selector cover in position, knock out selector pin 4. Remove front cover in bell housing and remove input shaft bearing ring and also very top circlip and spacer looking thing 5. Remove selector rod intent and spring, there is a ball behind it as pictured, it will more than likely fall into the case 6. Split the cases and your left with something like this. Remove the breather hose aswell 7. remove bolt, then that selector shaft can be removed 8. Knock pin through, then main selector rod can be removed aswell as forks 9. knock pin through and remove bolt then pull selector and rod out 10. Remove circlip, retainer, split washer under retainer and bearing, place inline on bench 11. Remove cluster circlip and bearing 12. Remove reverse idler gear and brass washers, place together on bench 13. Use puller or hammer an drift (don’t be rough or it’ll break) and remove hub and gear 14. Use puller to remove 5th gear on cluster 15. Remove retaining plate 16. Use puller to remove bearing race, speedo gear and 5th gear 17. Once the gears are removed using a rubber mallet or copper hammer remove mainshaft and cluster out of centre plate. This will make both shafts fall out 18. Once the shafts are out you can get to 3rd and 4th gear selector hub where those clips you found in your oil originated from. When you come to put the unit back together make sure there is a tiny bit of clearance between the selector rings and gears and also put a drop of ATF oil or thin gear oil on the surfaces. Then its just a matter of following these photos on reverse. I like to put locktite on the retaining plate bolts and the selector rod bolt just in case.
  7. Okay i sent a PM to turboedsloth because he seemed like he knew what the problem was from his post. Not only did he give me the info i needed but he gave me pictures and instructions on how to strip the box. Very nice guy indeed! So thankyou very much turboedsloth!!! I have converted the pictures and will post them up now. Now all we need is the part number for the clip / clips and we can start repairing our box's!!!! Took me a while to copy all the files from the doc file to jpg files and add the info in the next post but its good to get this info on SAU and out there so this issue can be repaired by anyone in the future. So thanks again Turbodsloth you are a champion!!!! (everyone needs to thank him if this has helped you) Now all we need to do is confirm the part number. Maybe Dave can confirm this for us.
  8. Twoogle's box is nice.. After a little fondling i had no problems with it....
  9. nice, will be a decent package once finished. keep up posted and post some pics as well! nothing worse then a empty thread with no pictures
  10. You need to take your car to a good tuner and get him to check your cam belt timing. If your cam belt timing is out then it will cause knock as well. once the cam belt timing is checked then check the ignition timing. if the ignition timing is okay then its possible the cam belt or ignition timing was out when it was tuned so now that everything is set correctly there are problems. Stop flogging the car you could damage the car. Get everything checked including the cam belt timing and then ignition timing and then get the car completly re-tuned.
  11. i have hundreds of them. how many do you want?
  12. do you have a oil catch can? the breaths on a stock rb25 go into the intake pipe then goes through the turbo and into the intake system. so that is where the oil would be comming from. What you need to do is remove all the intercooler pipes and clean them out and install a oil catch cat at the same time! once you have done this test it.
  13. ahhhh he found the engine bearing! or maybe it was still there in the first place?
  14. anyone notice a trend here?
  15. its gone? where did it go? you better find it! engine wont go very good without it.
  16. check the AFM voltage in sensors check. it should give you a reading even with the engine not running.. if its not working it can cause this.
  17. if you have a RB20 then you should get Nistune. much cheaper then even a rb26 power fc and you will get it tuned as well. if you dont know where to get a nistune then try Unigroup. www.unigroup.com.au
  18. No
  19. take the back seat out, and look under the seat. alot of the time they are too lazy to put the middle seat belt through the seat as its a pain in the ass. every r33 coupe i have seen have been 5 seaters.
  20. if you don't want so spend any money then you need to remove your inlet manifold and clean it out. also remove the exhaust and clean it out as well. give that a try
  21. Yes this car is not for the faint hearted. you will need to have some serious balls to take this one on. Good luck with the sale. I will keep my eye out.
×
×
  • Create New...