Guilt-Toy

they all come out of the same factory in china anyway. just send it somewhere in AUS to get re-balanced and see how it goes.

i know a guy who buys KKR turbo's directly from factory in china and he says they are close to half the cost of what otomo charge for them here in australia. so $200 cheaper will still mean they can make a profit on the turbo. I wouldnt worry about it

you need to check your pipework going into the front of the turbo, make sure there are no rocks or dirt or anything in there at all! make sure your filter is working correctly, look at it carefully! Yes you can replace the front wheel of the turbine without any issues, or you can get the turbo re-balanced as well or just leave it and continue to use it, i have seen many functional turbo's with chips in both the rear wheel and front wheel. take the turbo off and send it to GCG to inspect it and see what the suggest

if this has happened then you cannot use this pump. reason for that is if you look inside the pump you will see that the collar that you say it has cut into is actually the inside of the inner gear you have now weakened the pump in a big way and cracks can form much easier then before - seeing the N1 pump is known to break (high revs and limiter hits) when in good condition your pump will fail much quicker and easier. big fail to have to replace your pump because of this, but bigger fail to have to replace the whole motor! Just be happy you found this now and not afterwards

its probly the VCT configuration in the ECU

Yes this can happen. f**k it. i will ask. why do you have a rev limit of 3500, and why are you on the limit constantly if you do ?

can you check something for me? go look at your ECU, open the kick panel. check to make sure the ECU is plugged in ALL the way. I have seen many cars have issues like this when the ECU is not pluged in correctly. Check to make sure the plug is in ALL the way into the ecu, if you are unsure then unplug the ECU and take notice of when plugging it back, sometimes you need to screw the 10mm bolt in a few turns then press in both sides of the ecu plug so the end of the plugs go in with it - repeat this untill the 10mm bolt wont go in anymore (dont force it- within reason) do you have a series 1 or series 2 engine ? it could also be the ignitor Do this and report back with results

I have been running a RB30DET for about 6 years now, and i only suggest to people that they go RB30 only if their current engine is no good and not re-usable or they want to go for the big torque engine and not too worried about the cost. RB30 is great and powerfull but they are a bit of a pain in the ass to get running and setup to work correctly. For your goals a RB25det with a GT35r or t04z will be fine.

what if the engine detonated and it destroyed the tip of the spark plug?

VCT is off at idle, you need to set the ecu to turn VCT on at about 1300rpm then switch it off again after the engine reaches 3000 - 5000rpm (depends on engine configuration) & switch it off when the engine reach's a certain boost pressure - every car is different and its up to your tuner to decide the switch on and off points for VCT when tuning. if you set VCT up correctly you can tell the difference.

i recently put a R33 GTST with a Toshi re-map on our local dyno here and found the AFR's to be good and safe with decent power @ 185rwkw on 12psi

if you think the wastegate is causing this noise, you could try and buy a spring and add a little more pre-load to the wastegate flap. Don't add too much as it will cause the car to run more boost. Use this just to test if it is causing the issue. If you find the noise goes away then you might want to leave the spring there if its still running safe boost levels or replace the actuator. The turbo wheel will still spin if the wastegate is opened or close.

Nah! Dan @ Elite is the best. he knows everything

that is sooo sad i really feel bad for the family.

depends where you are. I would suggest Yavus @ Unigroup or Mark @ Godzilla, if you are in VIC then Racepace

Twoogle still has the high flow T51r spl Great turbo at a great price! I can only wonder what kind of engine would be needed for this!

yeah fair enough I am a little open minded when it comes to these china turbo's. i saw one r33 with 360rwkw and has done for a year or more. not sure how much more it lasted though.

yeah he is right. it is easier to modify oil lines and dump pipes and intake pipes then to look on the net and do your homework.

get yourself a set of copper BCPR7ES and gap them to .75 or .7 and test and report back with results

why do you create threads and ask questions that have been answered directly to you in other threads?

you can switch off the 02 feedback to the ECU. go into etc and function select and change the 02 option. if you are unsure look at the power fc faq. or you can call me on skype or something and i can explain

yeah high octane fuel because of additives make the turbine / plugs look yellow / orange. that car is running a bit lean by the looks of things. clean AFM, upgrade pump and check

i remember a few years ago one guy telling me how he was running a old gas setup through his turbo car, i think it was a corolla?? he said the car backfired and the intercooler made one massive big explosion tank which went bang in a big way. another friend of mine had a VL turbo on gas, and he would explode his air box and destroy AFM's, i remember once it happened it scared the crap out of me. Be interesting to see how these direct injection setup's go.

**Edited** Not even worth wasting my time

hobby ecu.. is microtech classed as a hobby ecu too trent? lol