Guilt-Toy

my setup needs some attention. I am running the stock mspec front bar and have not chopped out the reo bar because i like my car to be legal. The oil cooler is mounted on the front of the air con condensor, so its heating up there, i added a air con thermo fan and have replaced the clutch in the engine fan. Its just that the radiator cannot get enough air from the front. its a Mspec radiator as well.. I need to move the oil cooler and install another thermo fan i think.

yeah well it was only recently (vipec) that we have had access to a decent ecu that supports these options! (Vi-Pec) The power FC is far behind in the times and we have been using them because it was the only way to go. Now there is a better alternative which packs all these options. I only use cycle idle when i need it, usually on weekends and on my trip from Sydney to Newcastle to help with cooling. Only takes a couple of minutes to set it up and you are on your way.

how do you set it up? where were you going wrong?

unburnt fuel? ohhhh Mr Internet Mechanic....... man... rotatational idle works by cutting fuel to keep the revs down.. it is running lean not rich. rofl the cooling happens because of all the fresh air getting pumped in and out of the engine not the excess fuel.

pm me if you want to sell cheers

Lookin for call of duty 5 for xbox 360. anyone keen to sell?

lol.. see the bogan jumping for cover? i decided against doing a burnout there, I could not have anything happen to my car just to prove something to bogans... I am saving it for power cruise instead.

i also use it on hot summer days when driving in sydney traffic, because the oil cooler and 4" core intercooler is in the way the water temps get very high and the cycle idle actually keeps the temps around 5 - 10 deg cooler.

search for guilt-toy on you tube

anti lag works good, i don't use it on the street though. i just have cycle idle on because when i use the air con the water temps go up to around 100deg, when i turn cycle idle on it cools it down and runs at about 94ish in traffic.

can you spin the fround housing around ? otherwise it should be ok.

oi Mr Dirt.. This is the E85 thread.. as much as i agree with you on the subject this thread is linked on heaps of forums world wide and i am sure they don't want to see our ECU Tuner wars battles

Post from Link site Key Features (where applicable) Peak and hold, eight independently controlled channels Up to 6D fuel and ignition mapping Precision closed loop cam control (four cam, independent control) Sequential fuel and ignition delivery Digital triggering, all OEM patterns Rotary - up to four rotors, fully sequentially staged injection and sequential ignition OEM idle hardware supported 5D boost control with three switchable tables Motorsport features - antilag, launch, flat shift Continuous barometric correction (on board) CAN port QuickTune - automated fuel tuning Individual cylinder correction Odd-fire engines & two-strokes USB tuning cable included Stats recording into on-board memory Gear compensations for spark, boost and fuel Real time selectable dual fuel, ignition and boost maps Sync and crank sensors can be a combination of Hall effect, variable reluctance or optical Boost control referenced to gear, speed or throttle position Up to 4Mb internal logging memory Staged injection “Firmware” updates via downloads page on this website It matches the Vi-Pec.

Have a look at this. http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-man...wheng3sopopular I can see the differences in the vipec and the g3, the vipec looks like the g4 to me. it has 4mb internal loging and also has the 4d maps etc etc and switchable maps and gear compensated boost control etc etc. plenty more evidence to prove that it is infact a G4 not a G3.

i can wire it up.. I am more interested in a anti-lag switch on or off & a boost controll switch, 20psi 30psi...

Fair enough. I just set the closed loop lambda settings to be a bit more agressive with e85... wonder how this will work

Power fc's are still good.. they are just for Noobs who don't know or don't care to know any better. I think a 9.5 compression ratio would be good for a dual setup. use 98 for street stuff then take e85 to the track.

Yeah i am cheating on you paul.

I can offer you a remote control power fc tuning service where I take control of your laptop and map it for you on the fly while you drive it.. (preferable on a race track) It will cost $300usd and I will keep working with you untill the tune is 100% . This is what you need 1: Datalogit 2: Air Fuel Ratio Meter with 0 - 5v output 3: Laptop with decent battery life OR a inverter for laptop power or 12v laptop power supply 4: 3g mobile phone connection or any fast (stable) wireless internet connection with at least 100mb of data + another phone to call me if needed 5: A Friend to be in the passenger seat to hold the laptop & take directions from the screen 6: Race track or somewhere SAFE to drive your car on full noise OR a Dyno Have a read of this thread, there is a example of a couple of cars i did for a guy in Georgia (near Russia) as he has no tuners in his area. Of them was a race car and ended up winning the series. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...t-p4039862.html or click the "Remote Controll Power FC tuning thread" in my Sig. PM me if your interested

e85 is back in the toy, ohhh man i love this shit. Getting the car tuned back to e85 was suprisingly easy with the vipec, seriously took 30 seconds with the software at the servo and we were on our way. i was kinda annoyed because i got Dr Doof to come out with me to drive the car while i re-tuned it on e85, once i changed a few settings everything was running normal because the Closed Loop & Open Loop lambda correction became alive and is working 100% - better then it did on 98 for some reason? so 30 second change over with just a couple of flat spots that needed taking care of. Vipec suprised me again last night. what a ecu...

doing the switch back to e85 tonight. I figured im going to have to get in early so i have some time to get the car running right before i go on the dyno for power runs.

Yeah they lock the power fc, you can take it to someone else to tune it but when they unlock it the ecu will have to be totally retuned. I think its got something to do with the different type of software they are using, i never realy bothered to look into it more.. whenever i fix a CRD tune i just re-tune the whole thing from scratch. $600 is cheap for a CRD tune, if i was to re-tune it i would charge $400 - $500 but I would go driving with you on the street to make sure everything is in order after the tune and compare the knocking on your PFC to a Gizzmo k-mon to make sure your not getting false knock readings which happens 50% or more of the time. Good luck with it, if they fix it for free then thats great!

how much did you pay for this tune ? i bet they will charge you to fix it too? Croydon lock power fc's. everyone i have unlocked has needed a full re-tune so he will have to take it back to them and fork out more money.

go to the wreckers, and get one or 2 late model cat converters, im thinking 2006model or newer. if you run 2 of them then you should pass that easy test. even if you have one only try get a 2007 or 2008 model cat if you only have one, also run the car on e10 if you can. what year model is this car? to tune for emissions you need a dyno and a 5gas which will need to be done for a IM240 test.

i have a nismo twin plate clutch that needs a rebuild you can have for $300